So, I'm washing / waxing my Tahoe last night... have the keys in the ACC, radio on, not very loud, but enough to hear it outside the truck... I like to listen to the radio while I work...

About an hour and 15 minutes into it (it's a big truck) the radio cuts off, and the dash has a red battery light lit...

F*'n A....

I had to jump it off my wife's car.

I've listened to the radio for 6+ hours in my Wrangler and her car... NO issues at all. none.

This thing can't go 2 hrs with the radio on?!

And this is my second battery!!! under warrenty.

I'm so sick of this Tahoe.... a few days ago the sunroof was making a horrible scraping noise on open / close. Every time I turn around it's something else on what was a brand new purchase... never again. GM can suck it.

Have you seen the way they LIED about the volt being only electrically driven?

Drove a convertable mustang on my honey moon last week... Ford is where it's at... once they make a new expedition (2012)... with MyFord Touch... i'll get one... I hate to lose so much $ on this, but I really have just had it w/GM...

I'm calling the dealer today to get my $300 check for my bluetooth issues (this is in addition to the $900 I got for voice commands for destinations not working)...

on the Mustang... the bluetooth worked 110%. it sync'd my address book to the CAR, so incoming / outgoing calls showed the NAME on the head unit... something only 100 billion times more useful than a random 10 digit number (no, mine does not show random numbers, but who the hell know's anyone's number anymore?)

AND... the mustang does A2DP... i was able to listen to Pandora and my ipod with NO wires at all!

The Camaro is sexier... but to live with every day... Mustang all the way! They got it right. Retro sexy on the outside, 2010 tech on the INSIDE... I've driven the Camaro... not impressed... sexy yes. Daily driver. Hell no.

 

The way GM designed it, when you have the ACC on listening to the radio, the car's entire electrical systems are up and running, and there's considerable current flowing from the battery. I'm not saying it's right, but that's the way it is. So far, I've jumped myself twice from my auxilliary battery (isolated from the vehicle's system) from doing the exact same thing. My Tahoe was 2 months old, and I was already carrying jumper cables after being left high and dry a couple of times from the battery rundown issue (Bulletin #07033). I got that fix with a reflash, but unfortunately. it doesn't change the way the BCM works.

 

as HT said, this is a well known "issue" or design in the electrical system. I would suggest keeping the key out of ACC if you plan on listening to the radio for a while and keep it in the "on" or whatever the 1st battery only option is. sorry if the description is bad.
or maybe get a Yellow Top or another deep cycle battery vs another OEM battery that is obviously not up to much more than the required starting of the vehicle.

if you want better tech why not go to the aftermarket? you could get exactly what you want and probably for less vs trading in a basically new Tahoe and get bent over on a new Ford. They are not giving those away for cheap anymore BTW.

 

Did you try leaving the Mustang ignition on for an hour or so? BTW there is no ACC position any more. Just OFF, RUN, & START. And the START can be just a momentary twist and release. No need to hold 'til it starts. The ECM finishes once the START signal is rec'd.

My experience w/ older vehicles that did have an ACC position was that if you used the RUN position to listen to the radio, it would run the battery down. Especially before solid-state radios appeared.

I do agree on at least one point that the Ford did a much better job on the retro Mustang (also Dodge did good on the Challenger). The Camaro is just not cutting it as a retro design along w/ the now dead GTO. Of course the GTO wasn't meant to be retro as much as just a resurrection of a name.

 

AC Delco batteries are JUNK.. They fail almost every 2 years or less. Buy a interstate, Die Hard or Optima you will have less problems.

 

page 132/578 owners manual for 09 Tahoe. aka page 2-26.

it does have ACC. and this is the position I always use to use the radio / windows with engine off...

They just moved it, 'American' cars used to turn the key 'backwards' for ACC. Now it's the first click forward.


Ignition Positions
The ignition switch has
four different positions.
To shift out of P (Park), the ignition must be in ON/RUN
or ACC/ACCESSORY and the regular brake pedal
must be applied.



(LOCK/OFF): This position locks the ignition. It also
locks the transmission on automatic transmission
vehicles. The key can be removed in LOCK/OFF.
On vehicles with an automatic transmission, the shift
lever must be in P (Park) to turn the ignition switch
to LOCK/OFF.
The steering can bind with the wheels turned off center.
If this happens, move the steering wheel from right
to left while turning the key to ACC/ACCESSORY.
If this doesn’t work, then the vehicle needs service.
Notice: Using a tool to force the key to turn in
the ignition could cause damage to the switch or
break the key. Use the correct key, make sure it is
all the way in, and turn it only with your hand.
If the key cannot be turned by hand, see your
dealer/retailer.
B (ACC/ACCESSORY): This position lets things like
the radio and the windshield wipers operate while
the engine is off. Use this position if the vehicle must
be pushed or towed.
C (ON/RUN): This position can be used to operate the
electrical accessories and to display some instrument
panel cluster warning and indicator lights. The switch
stays in this position when the engine is running.
The transmission is also unlocked in this position
on automatic transmission vehicles.
If you leave the key in the ACC/ACCESSORY or ON/
RUN position with the engine off, the battery could be
drained. You may not be able to start the vehicle if the
battery is allowed to drain for an extended period of time.
D (START): This is the position that starts the engine.
When the engine starts, release the key. The ignition
switch returns to ON/RUN for driving.
A warning tone will sound when the driver door is
opened, the ignition is in ACC/ACCESSORY or
LOCK/OFF and the key is in the ignition.

 

ya I miss the backturn to get the battery on for your radio. one thing you can do to help is turn off your interior lights if you are going to open and close the door a lot and turn off your navigation display once you get the radio on.
other than that - upgrade your battery

 

I'm thinking Yellow Top. Does it mostly just slap right in? I don't want to pay a core, since the battery under the hood is only 1 year old... i thought I had my old tahoe's laying around...

I had the tail gate open, with the keys in ACC, the interior lights don't go out in 10 min, they stay on, but still... is the factory battery that crap?!

I had a red top in my last tahoe (big sterio system) and loved it...

 

oh my god!!

 

Red top is great for a regular battery and would be better than the OEM one but the Yellow top will let you play your radio all day basically since it is deep cycle. I had a Yellow top in my Acura (1100 rms system) and could play for hours w/o having a problem.
yes it is a direct fit - you could always keep your 2nd in the other tray just in case.
https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tahoe-suburban-25/installed-another-single-battery-16963/