A/C belt tensioner chattering
#12
Administrator
How can you tell the noise is coming from the tensioner and not a compressor bearing? The tensioner will move when the load (A/C compressor) is engaged and released.
#14
Administrator
the chatter its coming from the belt tensioner bouncing up and down I can duplicate it by reving the eng a little while staring at the tensioner. how would the clutch cause this? could it be engaging and disengaging rapidly? the higher I turn the a/c up the worse it gets.
I suggested that a worn clutch could possibly cause the chatter, and on some compressors the clutch can be replaced without replacing the whole compressor unit.
But it looks like you have identified the tensioner as the cause..
A rapid cycling clutch can be a sign that the AC system needs to be charged...
#15
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in2pro, I got to the point were money wise I do not want to put a compressor in after all the reading about this problem. I am going to take it to the dealer tomorrow morning and for the $89 and let them diagnose it. if it needs a new clutch I will just let them do it. anything more I am going to have to do it myself. This thing has been dealer maintained its whole life up until about 50,000 miles ago but who can afford that anymore.
Basically the system is working fine, its not cycling rapidly, the compressor is not making any bad noises, the air in the car is nice and cold. after the belt tensioner started chattering I replaced the belt and put a new tensioner in and now it is still chattering when I turn on the A/C and you are applying throttle. my last theory is maybe the clutch pulley is worn to the point that the new belt is slipping under acceleration.
Basically the system is working fine, its not cycling rapidly, the compressor is not making any bad noises, the air in the car is nice and cold. after the belt tensioner started chattering I replaced the belt and put a new tensioner in and now it is still chattering when I turn on the A/C and you are applying throttle. my last theory is maybe the clutch pulley is worn to the point that the new belt is slipping under acceleration.
#16
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Ah I understand now... when you say you replaced the tensioner did you replace the tensioner arm and pulley or just the pulley....
reason I ask is typically they pulley only is replaced (because the bearing goes bad) not the entire arm....
but I would be suspicious of the arm itself as it would seem that they too would get weak over time and not apply the needed tension...
Please let us know what the dealer finds and thanks for the patients
reason I ask is typically they pulley only is replaced (because the bearing goes bad) not the entire arm....
but I would be suspicious of the arm itself as it would seem that they too would get weak over time and not apply the needed tension...
Please let us know what the dealer finds and thanks for the patients
#17
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I replaced the whole assembly took 10 minutes. one of the stops actually broke off on the old one from the chattering and the pulley wheel was well worn. I'll let you know tomorrow what the dealer $ays
#18
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Yup Its the compressor...... so now I'm going to change it and I read that you have to flush the system and change the accumulator and the orifice tube.
The dealer wanted over 1k bucks to do the job
The dealer wanted over 1k bucks to do the job
#19
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dang sorry to hear that and thanks for the follow up...
are you able to do the AC repairs yourself? its the evac, flushing and refilling that make it hard for the lay person to repair AC systems because of the equipment needed....
are you able to do the AC repairs yourself? its the evac, flushing and refilling that make it hard for the lay person to repair AC systems because of the equipment needed....
#20
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If you have an empty freon bottle, you can save most of what's in the system by setting it in ice water and connecting it to your system (not running). At $10-$15 a 14oz can, it's worth the extra effort.
You'll need a set of gauges and vacuum pump. Both are reasonable at Harbor Freight.
If they still put desiccant in them, you'll need to replace it. Used to be in the accumulator but not sure on the R134a systems. Someone else may know.
You'll need a set of gauges and vacuum pump. Both are reasonable at Harbor Freight.
If they still put desiccant in them, you'll need to replace it. Used to be in the accumulator but not sure on the R134a systems. Someone else may know.
Last edited by 73shark; July 16th, 2010 at 5:27 PM. Reason: Added info