changing gear ratio?
#1
CF Junior Member
Thread Starter
changing gear ratio?
hey guys,
i was trying to read up on this but couldnt find a answer. i have a 2008 burb 1500 4x4 with tow package and with a 3.73 gear ratio. well after paying a visit to the scale i am right at my tow max, 6400lbs loaded trailer+450lbs on passengers. would a gear change to a 4.11 bring my towing capacity up or would it stay the same and would just make the towing easier?
also i have a weight ditribution hitch and a sway control and brake controller on the burb, what else could be done to improve my towing?
thanks for your help....
i was trying to read up on this but couldnt find a answer. i have a 2008 burb 1500 4x4 with tow package and with a 3.73 gear ratio. well after paying a visit to the scale i am right at my tow max, 6400lbs loaded trailer+450lbs on passengers. would a gear change to a 4.11 bring my towing capacity up or would it stay the same and would just make the towing easier?
also i have a weight ditribution hitch and a sway control and brake controller on the burb, what else could be done to improve my towing?
thanks for your help....
#2
CF Senior Member
basically all it would do is improve pulling performance. outside of putting a heavier springs and all under the truck it's going to still be the same weight amount.
going to 4.11 will also bring down mpg to a small degree. If it's pulling fine now I'd leave it as is. going a little overweight isn't going to kill anything unless your doing it everyday all the time.
:chug:
going to 4.11 will also bring down mpg to a small degree. If it's pulling fine now I'd leave it as is. going a little overweight isn't going to kill anything unless your doing it everyday all the time.
:chug:
#3
Super Moderator
I agree with hicksvilleshick save that with the increased "ease" of pulling with the 4.11, your gas mileage may not suffer all that much, and if you really get in a bind, you always have low range.
Additionally, you might consider what tires you have on your rig now. Most replacements are Load Rated on probabilities. Those being that you normally won't put very heavy loads on them, which isn't the case with a heavy Tow.
Below, are a couple "Rule of Thumb" examples. First, the Load Rating you should have to safely operate. You need to plug in the numbers specific to your situation.
Example for Tire Load Rating...
Vehicle Dry Weight.......5000 lbs
Carry Load (1/2 ton)....1000 lbs
Total is 6000 div by 2 = 3000 lbs
So if Maximum Load Rating is between 2750 and 3000 lbs per tire, you're ok.
(the closer your are in this example to 3000 the safer you are)
Load Ratings for Tires, are based on pressures at or near their Maximum Cold Inflation Pressures (MCIP). That pressure (found stamped on the sidewall of the Tire), though seemingly high, is the Manufacturers guarantee, that the Tire can be operated safely at it, for the Tire's life. So, don't be afraid to use it, because the efficiency of the Tire increases as you approach that pressure, IF you have the proper width Rims on your Vehicle. Again, plug in your specific numbers.
Rule of thumb is to air at or no lower than 90% of MCIP.
Example:
Tire list 44 lbs as MCIP... then 40-44 lbs is acceptable for normal use, and I'd put it at 1 lb under MCIP when towing.
There are numerous advantages in performance and safety, by using these higher pressures.
PS: Keep in mind, that changing your Gear Ratio is X2 (front and rear) on a 4WD ! = $$$$
Additionally, you might consider what tires you have on your rig now. Most replacements are Load Rated on probabilities. Those being that you normally won't put very heavy loads on them, which isn't the case with a heavy Tow.
Below, are a couple "Rule of Thumb" examples. First, the Load Rating you should have to safely operate. You need to plug in the numbers specific to your situation.
Example for Tire Load Rating...
Vehicle Dry Weight.......5000 lbs
Carry Load (1/2 ton)....1000 lbs
Total is 6000 div by 2 = 3000 lbs
So if Maximum Load Rating is between 2750 and 3000 lbs per tire, you're ok.
(the closer your are in this example to 3000 the safer you are)
Load Ratings for Tires, are based on pressures at or near their Maximum Cold Inflation Pressures (MCIP). That pressure (found stamped on the sidewall of the Tire), though seemingly high, is the Manufacturers guarantee, that the Tire can be operated safely at it, for the Tire's life. So, don't be afraid to use it, because the efficiency of the Tire increases as you approach that pressure, IF you have the proper width Rims on your Vehicle. Again, plug in your specific numbers.
Rule of thumb is to air at or no lower than 90% of MCIP.
Example:
Tire list 44 lbs as MCIP... then 40-44 lbs is acceptable for normal use, and I'd put it at 1 lb under MCIP when towing.
There are numerous advantages in performance and safety, by using these higher pressures.
PS: Keep in mind, that changing your Gear Ratio is X2 (front and rear) on a 4WD ! = $$$$
Last edited by SWHouston; January 26th, 2013 at 1:46 PM.
#4
CF Monarch
basically all it would do is improve pulling performance. outside of putting a heavier springs and all under the truck it's going to still be the same weight amount.
going to 4.11 will also bring down mpg to a small degree. If it's pulling fine now I'd leave it as is. going a little overweight isn't going to kill anything unless your doing it everyday all the time.
:chug:
going to 4.11 will also bring down mpg to a small degree. If it's pulling fine now I'd leave it as is. going a little overweight isn't going to kill anything unless your doing it everyday all the time.
:chug:
#5
Administrator
You could go w/ a smaller diameter tire which would also lower the final drive ratio. To get the full 10% reduction tho, you probably have to go to a low profile tire or smaller wheel/tire combo. And your speedo will be overdriven. Dealer can fix that tho for a fee.
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