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Old July 24th, 2015, 5:42 PM
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Old February 18th, 2013 | 4:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 73shark
L5wolvesf: Welcome to the forum.

I'd pull the t-stat and make sure it opens and fully closes in boiling water. Even if it sticks open about 1/16", the engine will run cold.
Thank you. The t-stat was replaced (with a new 195) just before I wrote the original posting, it made a slight difference. Before the gauge sat on the line between 100 / 210 (so roughly 155). Now it is above that line (roughly 170 maybe). But it needs to be in the 200 range from what I’m told.
Old February 18th, 2013 | 4:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 73shark
The fan is not the problem. The t-stat should still regulate the temp. even if the fan runs full speed all of the time. The only reason for fan clutches was to reduce load on engine and thus improve mpg. While blocking the radiator may elevate the temp., it's covering up the real problem

Another thing to check would be the accuracy of the temp gauge.
the mpg thing is an issue. check the accuracy of the temp gauge, How?
Old February 18th, 2013 | 4:15 PM
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Mine quit last summer, got hot in traffic (2000 5.3l). Spring was worn out, could turn it by hand, replaced. As stated the fan runs all the time cold/hot it isn't like an electric fan set up.
Old February 18th, 2013 | 5:46 PM
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Originally Posted by L5wolvesf
I can turn it, but it won’t spin freely

that indicates it's bad.

as to verifying the actual temp I've got a little infrared thermometer. 30 bux at harbor freight. hit it right at the t-stat.

my heater core is also plugged I've found, just put in a new waterpump and t-stat and all I've got left is to unplug the heater core and the fan clutch and we'll see if bessie will come up to running temp. lol
Old February 18th, 2013 | 7:38 PM
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Originally Posted by L5wolvesf
I can turn it, but it won’t spin freely

That's normal for when the fan clutch is cool. Basically it's a fluid filled assembly that the bi-metal spring on the front of the fan changes how much fluid is ported to increase the amount of friction. When it's fully engaged, you should hear a "fan roar". Normally that would only occur on a hot day w/ the A/C running full blast.

If you want proof that it's not the clutch, pull the fan belt and see if the temp comes up.

Pull the "new" stat and see if it fully closes. I've seen new stats that are bad out of the box.

What did your IR thermometer tell you?

You can pull the temp sensor out and place it in boiling water. Should read in the 200+ range unless you're at hi altitude.
Old February 19th, 2013 | 6:49 PM
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I went to a mechanic in town who has a temp gun. It showed about 195 – 205 at the thermostat housing, and the upper hose at the rad. So the t’stat seems to be good. He suggested replacing the temp sensor (cheap and easy). What do y’all think?
<O</O
Thank you,<O</O
L
Old February 19th, 2013 | 11:44 PM
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Dash gauges are RELATIVE TO ACTUAL TEMPERATURE. If you had an a/market type (in the water) gauge such as a Stewart Warner or Sun gauge, you would see the same reading as the actual temperature. I wouldn't worry to much about it, drive moderatly for the best mileage you can get. Good luck, JMHO.
David g.
Old February 20th, 2013 | 7:57 AM
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check the wiring first. removing the connector from the sensor should put the guage full cold and grding it should put it full hot.

justimagination...what do you mean dash guages are relative...?

Last edited by tech2; February 20th, 2013 at 8:01 AM.
Old February 20th, 2013 | 3:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tech2
check the wiring first. removing the connector from the sensor should put the guage full cold and grding it should put it full hot.

justimagination...what do you mean dash guages are relative...?
Thanks for that, will do when the snow etc passes.

And, I had the same question . . . what do you mean dash guages are relative?

Thank you,
L
Old February 20th, 2013 | 5:17 PM
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Most automotive gauges are more indicators than true reading gauges, ie, they're not all that accurate. Maybe that's what he meant by "relative".

Another way to tell if the engine is getting hot is to check the heater output.

Is 195* stat the one called for? If not, I'd put in whatever should be there now that you know it's not the stat.
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