GM Active Fuel Management Woes
CF Beginner
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Sterling Heights, MI
To show the connections, a couple of more pics...
Here is the catch can and the hoses, with the engine cover off
One hose connects to the PCV outlet on the back of the cylinder bank on the drivers side. Vapors from this outlet would previously have been sucked into the intake. See next pic.
This is looking down at the intake manifold, the connection in the center of the manifold is the inlet from the PCV. So, without a catch can, all the gunk from the PCV ends up right here in your intake and through the cylinders to be burned (which I contend causes carbon buildup and fouling on the valves, rings and in the cylinders).
So, I just cut the original PCV hose and put the catch can in line.
Here is the catch can and the hoses, with the engine cover off
One hose connects to the PCV outlet on the back of the cylinder bank on the drivers side. Vapors from this outlet would previously have been sucked into the intake. See next pic.
This is looking down at the intake manifold, the connection in the center of the manifold is the inlet from the PCV. So, without a catch can, all the gunk from the PCV ends up right here in your intake and through the cylinders to be burned (which I contend causes carbon buildup and fouling on the valves, rings and in the cylinders).
So, I just cut the original PCV hose and put the catch can in line.
Last edited by vgreid; Feb 7, 2015 at 11:10 AM.
CF Beginner
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
To show the connections, a couple of more pics...
Here is the catch can and the hoses, with the engine cover off
One hose connects to the PCV outlet on the back of the cylinder bank on the drivers side. Vapors from this outlet would previously have been sucked into the intake. See next pic.
This is looking down at the intake manifold, the connection in the center of the manifold is the inlet from the PCV. So, without a catch can, all the gunk from the PCV ends up right here in your intake and through the cylinders to be burned (which I contend causes carbon buildup and fouling on the valves, rings and in the cylinders).
So, I just cut the original PCV hose and put the catch can in line.
Here is the catch can and the hoses, with the engine cover off
One hose connects to the PCV outlet on the back of the cylinder bank on the drivers side. Vapors from this outlet would previously have been sucked into the intake. See next pic.
This is looking down at the intake manifold, the connection in the center of the manifold is the inlet from the PCV. So, without a catch can, all the gunk from the PCV ends up right here in your intake and through the cylinders to be burned (which I contend causes carbon buildup and fouling on the valves, rings and in the cylinders).
So, I just cut the original PCV hose and put the catch can in line.
CF Beginner
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Sterling Heights, MI
It would be a little disassembly to show the innards of the catch can now that it is installed. This might be the next best thing though ... found this on youtube (its not me!), but at the 2 min mark you will see the inside of the can. This is for a Mopar installation, but the can and the parts are very similar.
Most cans are simply empty cans, and the better ones (RX, Elite, Moroso) at least have some means to separate and/or chamber the vapors. Whether I am drinking the juice, I don't know, but its why I decided to spend a little more for this one. The Moroso has 2 chambers at the top of the can, both with what seems to be steel wool kind of material, to catch the vapors, and let them drip into the can. Otherwise, the vapors would just go straight on out to the PCV.
Most cans are simply empty cans, and the better ones (RX, Elite, Moroso) at least have some means to separate and/or chamber the vapors. Whether I am drinking the juice, I don't know, but its why I decided to spend a little more for this one. The Moroso has 2 chambers at the top of the can, both with what seems to be steel wool kind of material, to catch the vapors, and let them drip into the can. Otherwise, the vapors would just go straight on out to the PCV.
the video was perfect..
CF Beginner
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
CF Beginner
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2008 Suburban LTZ 6.0
ok...sad to say im joining the club on this thread. my 08' suburban started the "knock" yesterday. i can hear it on idle...and around 1500 RPMs the clanking party really starts. if i push the gas and try to accel a bit, my stabiltrack turns off or warning comes on...then it returns after i let off of it.
i've always kept to schedule with oil changes. the wife mainly drives and really less than 30 miles on a typical day.
we have 95,465 miles on it, and we love our suburban
never off road, we baby this thing
so far ive changed the oil twice today.
i did notice i was approx 1.5 qts low (or so)
from my initial change
. i am using 5w30 (original) non synth.
ive added the seafoam each time. allowed truck to idle for over an hour and drove it around the neighborhood as well.
im looking at doing a 3rd oil change, w/ seafoam and will add a qt of diesel oil
praying this will work, otherwise i guess i will take it to the dealership and see what they say.
any other recommendations?
thx!! glad i ran into this thread
AJ
Tucson, AZ
im assuming i might still be able to fall under the 100k warranty?
i've always kept to schedule with oil changes. the wife mainly drives and really less than 30 miles on a typical day.
we have 95,465 miles on it, and we love our suburban
never off road, we baby this thing
so far ive changed the oil twice today.
i did notice i was approx 1.5 qts low (or so)
from my initial change
. i am using 5w30 (original) non synth.
ive added the seafoam each time. allowed truck to idle for over an hour and drove it around the neighborhood as well.
im looking at doing a 3rd oil change, w/ seafoam and will add a qt of diesel oil
praying this will work, otherwise i guess i will take it to the dealership and see what they say.
any other recommendations?
thx!! glad i ran into this thread
AJ
Tucson, AZ
im assuming i might still be able to fall under the 100k warranty?
CF Beginner
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
ok...sad to say im joining the club on this thread. my 08' suburban started the "knock" yesterday. i can hear it on idle...and around 1500 RPMs the clanking party really starts. if i push the gas and try to accel a bit, my stabiltrack turns off or warning comes on...then it returns after i let off of it.
i've always kept to schedule with oil changes. the wife mainly drives and really less than 30 miles on a typical day.
we have 95,465 miles on it, and we love our suburban
never off road, we baby this thing
so far ive changed the oil twice today.
i did notice i was approx 1.5 qts low (or so)
from my initial change
. i am using 5w30 (original) non synth.
ive added the seafoam each time. allowed truck to idle for over an hour and drove it around the neighborhood as well.
im looking at doing a 3rd oil change, w/ seafoam and will add a qt of diesel oil
praying this will work, otherwise i guess i will take it to the dealership and see what they say.
any other recommendations?
thx!! glad i ran into this thread
AJ
Tucson, AZ
im assuming i might still be able to fall under the 100k warranty?
i've always kept to schedule with oil changes. the wife mainly drives and really less than 30 miles on a typical day.
we have 95,465 miles on it, and we love our suburban
never off road, we baby this thing
so far ive changed the oil twice today.
i did notice i was approx 1.5 qts low (or so)
from my initial change
. i am using 5w30 (original) non synth.
ive added the seafoam each time. allowed truck to idle for over an hour and drove it around the neighborhood as well.
im looking at doing a 3rd oil change, w/ seafoam and will add a qt of diesel oil
praying this will work, otherwise i guess i will take it to the dealership and see what they say.
any other recommendations?
thx!! glad i ran into this thread
AJ
Tucson, AZ
im assuming i might still be able to fall under the 100k warranty?
Seafoam a couples of times and finish off with a hint of diesel!
I think its going to help You!
I did this on my rig, right after the dealer "doomed" out my engine.. And it was knocking like crazy..
Right after the "diesel cure", I changed the oil an last time, BUT topped off with one quarts, ATF-F! oil straight in the engine oil..( same viscosity in the AFT-F, same automatic ATF oil as FORD uses )
And the day after we drove all way from Oregon down to Las Vegas and back..
The rig runs great since that treatment, using less oil, less burn..
About the Seafoam, and the "diesel treat", I only did not just idling my rig, I drove and grocery shopped with my wife, picked up my kids in school etc..
I know "they" say that "You shall only idle the car with Seafoam" or etc..
But I wanted the Seafoam, or the diesel treatment, REALLY "go into" the valves and engine..
And it worked!!
Since December last year, we have done about 4500miles and still not even a cold start knock!
The rig is almost to the 200.000 miles now
Glenn