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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

Help with 02 suburban over heating and AC

Old Jun 6, 2020 | 10:20 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Cusser
That could be the cause if the compressor was taking extra effort of the engine to spin it. Just because I am not experienced with that condition doesn't mean it cannot happen.

When I had a compressor seize while driving along, it just stopped turning and the belts started squealing and burning. But if compressor was very tough to turn, I could see that producing more friction heat and requiring more engine load.

Hopefully that mechanic knows what he is doing. Personally, I would go for the new Denso compressor, OEM instead of Delco. Note there are versions for dual air, and just front air. I have replaced the compressor in my 2005 Yukon (dual air) and that was successful and straightforward, maybe 5 years ago, Arizona.

Here's what the expert on the radio says (for all repairs): Tell mechanic that you'll pay for a fix but not a guess, as he's assumed to have expertise. Pay with a credit card, and ask for your old parts back; if his repair doesn't fix it, dispute the charge with the credit card company.
also for the overheating I checked for leaks with a uv and dye and nothing. Only two things that could cause this would be the thermosatte and water pump correct?
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Old Jun 6, 2020 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew V
also for the overheating I checked for leaks with a uv and dye and nothing. Only two things that could cause this would be the thermosatte and water pump correct?
Coolant leaks are typically evident by sight, plus loss of coolant.

Dual air for a compressor means front air and rear air, doesn't matter if front has dual zone.
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Old Jun 6, 2020 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Cusser
Coolant leaks are typically evident by sight, plus loss of coolant.

Dual air for a compressor means front air and rear air, doesn't matter if front has dual zone.
okay. So no leak for the overheating. What mecanical parts can go wrong? I was going to change the thermestate since I already have it. But if that doesn't fix it what should I look at next?
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Old Jun 6, 2020 | 10:57 PM
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Didn't the mechanic say that the compressor was also causing the overheating? Or did mechanic not address the complete problem?

I'm done here !!
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Old Jun 6, 2020 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Cusser
Didn't the mechanic say that the compressor was also causing the overheating? Or did mechanic not address the complete problem?

I'm done here !!
no he did not address it. Just stated that the compressor was what was causing the warm ac. Wanted me to pay another díganoses fee for him to figure it out.
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 8:55 AM
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I just read that a failing fan clutch puts more of a load on the high pressure side of the AC, which in turn can cause AC system parts failure. I mentioned that my AC is not a problem since getting the valve on the high pressure side replaced after a long search for the leak (dye checks showed nothing; that's how slow the leak was). I just priced fan clutches at Oreilly's; an AC Delco is $134, and two other brands were about $60. There were pros and cons in the reviews of the cheaper brands, but NO comments on the Delco...no news is good news, I am suspecting. I am also about to change an aftermarket fan blower resister underneath the glove box for the 3rd time, but I will be going with AC Delco this time...the aggravation of getting to that resistor has taught me a lesson, and for that reason I will spend the extra money on an AC Delco fan clutch as well. Being that the fan clutch and resistor are both jobs that I can do myself, the money saved on labor and future saved frustration warrants spending the money on a better product.
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 8:59 AM
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Originally Posted by subfan597
I just read that a failing fan clutch puts more of a load on the high pressure side of the AC, which in turn can cause AC system parts failure. I mentioned that my AC is not a problem since getting the valve on the high pressure side replaced after a long search for the leak (dye checks showed nothing; that's how slow the leak was). I just priced fan clutches at Oreilly's; an AC Delco is $134, and two other brands were about $60. There were pros and cons in the reviews of the cheaper brands, but NO comments on the Delco...no news is good news, I am suspecting. I am also about to change an aftermarket fan blower resister underneath the glove box for the 3rd time, but I will be going with AC Delco this time...the aggravation of getting to that resistor has taught me a lesson, and for that reason I will spend the extra money on an AC Delco fan clutch as well. Being that the fan clutch and resistor are both jobs that I can do myself, the money saved on labor and future saved frustration warrants spending the money on a better product.
fan clutch was a delco
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 9:06 AM
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Originally Posted by subfan597
I just read that a failing fan clutch puts more of a load on the high pressure side of the AC, which in turn can cause AC system parts failure.
Yes.

2 or 3 years ago, returning to Phoenix on a 119F afternoon (not a typo), the AC on my 1998 Frontier started having issue, like compressor not operating/engaging like it always had. I found a pinhole in the rubber high pressure line, and got a replacement. However, I also found my fan clutch was not operating properly and replaced that (it was about 6 years old then), and always surmised that the extreme high temperatures plus the malfunctioning fan clutch might've accelerated that pinhole forming. Anyway, the fix was good.
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 9:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Cusser
Yes.

2 or 3 years ago, returning to Phoenix on a 119F afternoon (not a typo), the AC on my 1998 Frontier started having issue, like compressor not operating/engaging like it always had. I found a pinhole in the rubber high pressure line, and got a replacement. However, I also found my fan clutch was not operating properly and replaced that (it was about 6 years old then), and always surmised that the extreme high temperatures plus the malfunctioning fan clutch might've accelerated that pinhole forming. Anyway, the fix was good.
so i should fix the ac first and see if that fixes the overheatinh issue? Also don't I need a whole new ac system. Kit? Thats what the mecanic said. But I don't think the compressor was seize since it works intermittently. What should I do?
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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 7:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Matthew V
fan clutch was a delco
My 01 Suburban was what they called a price leader by the dealership...it has rubber mat flooring...no carpeting, no rear air, no remote locks nor remote starter, no power seats or sunroof, no CD player and certainly no Autoride suspension. It DOES however have the luxury option of a second and third row seat as indicated on the window sticker that I still have, as well as other dreamy features like AM/FM radio, power windows and power door locks. It has more years, miles and memories than any other vehicle that I have owned. It has also cost me more on repairs than any other vehicle that I have owned, but of all the trials and tribulations that i have endured nothing is as frustrating as this damn heating and AC issue that we seem to share. It is posts like yours that I am eternally drawn to and thankful for as it reminds me that I am not alone in my suffering; and if my experience can help some one or theirs can help me, the world is a better place. Let us review...Between the two of us we have replaced or fixed everything possibly related to our conundrum. The one thing that I did that you didn't is repair a difficult to find leak on the high pressure side at a valve. We have both replaced fan clutches but I installed a used one, where I don't know where yours came from except you say that it is Delco. As I mentioned, I heard that a failing clutch can not only cause overheating but put stress on the high pressure side of the cooling system which may be what caused my leak. Yet despite our efforts the assault upon our patience and pockets continues, so let me sum it up as I see it...IF my replacement clutch is failing BUT my AC runs cold ALL the time since the valve replacement, and since we both have done flushes (I believe you said you replaced the radiator as well?), and we KNOW it's not the thermostat because the problem would not be intermittent, then what I think that I need to do is replace that clutch with a new one this time. There is simply nothing left to do on such a bare bones vehicle as mine. As you have the same symptoms in regards to periodic overheating AND warm AC air, you may look to a new clutch as well as at that high pressure valve that may have been damaged due to that same stress on the AC which is caused by a failing clutch which would ALSO explain your overheating...if that doesn't work, then perhaps moving to Canada might be the answer. Good luck, aye?
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