Attached is a photo of the failed valve. The arrow points to the failure.
Thanks - Drew

 

It looks like the end of the pushrod failed and now the pushrod end is mushroomed. You will need to back off the rocker arm nut and remove the old push rod and install a new one. Then you have to tighten the rocker arm nut the same number of turns has when you loosened it.

Of all the things it could have been, this is probably the easiest repair. Make sure the new push rod is the same length as the old one.

 

I got a new pushrods, drilled out the old pushrod ball from the rocker arm (no idea how that thing got wedged in there like it did), reinstalled the pushrod and rocker arm, put everything back together and started the vehicle. It started and everything felt good. Connected up the diagnostic tool and no codes were found. I wanted to end the day on a high note so I shut everything down. I'll take a test drive today. Hopefully this solve the problem but not overly confident. Thanks everyone for the assistance!

 

So you drilled the rocker arm? Think I would be replacing that part as well if that's the case.

 

I have to question why the rod got damaged like that?
Was the rocker arm seized ?
That damage looks like repeated hammering on a surface that was not moving...
I am glad you got it fixed, I would revisit in about 500-1000 miles with a valve cover removal and inspect those items again for a follow up...

Thanks for the photo

 

I agree with replacing the rocker arm as the first choice but I couldn't find one at the local auto parts stores (unless you buy a $200 kit which i didnt want to do until i knew this actually fixed the priblem) and the local Pick and Pull didn't have any suburbans or silverados on their inventory, which I find hard to believe. A little tungsten drill bit and I got through the stainless ball easily.
I agree that I may have just treated a symptom and not the problem, but you have to start somewhere. I'm definitely skeptical that this is over.

 

That is a good attitude and place to start

 

One possibility is a clogged pushrod prevented the tip from oiling and caused it then to fuse to the rocker arm.

 

I think you might be right on that... if that is the case then the lifter is going to need to be replaced...

 

I doubt it has any bearing on the problem but #7 is one of the four cylinders that the AFM shuts down.