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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
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Need help with a 2003 Suburban door panel removal

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Old October 8th, 2015, 9:29 PM
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Default Need help with a 2003 Suburban door panel removal

I have a 2003 Suburban that I need to remove the door panels to gain access and unplug the exterior mirror electrical plug. I've watched seven different YouTube videos on the subject and all demonstrate the same way to remove the power window and door lock switch panel. I'm supposed to be able to simply pull up from the outer leading edge, lifting that edge towards the door. Doesn't work. It breaks free near the door-pull but not at the top-section. What little I can see when I lift up is that the clip is in the middle of the assembly, not along the leading edge, but that clip may bed to remove all the switches from the housing. No matter how hard I try to pull up, it won't disengage and I even tried to use a large flat-head screw driver to the point I know it was close to breaking.

Any ideas?

Thank you.
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Old October 8th, 2015, 11:37 PM
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Pull back away from door after getting the edge up.
Old October 9th, 2015, 11:46 AM
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To remove the door panel there are two 7 mm screws that need to be removed. One is located just behind the door lock handle. Use a small straight head screw driver to remove the door handle. If you gently insert the screw driver behind the outer trim ring of the door lock, it will come out easily. The second screw is located near the door handle / door arm rest.

Once you have these screws out, gently lift up on the door panel to allow access to the wiring connections, for removal. There are a couple of connections that need to be removed on the window switch. Two are your typical connector where you press the sides. this is for the power mirrors, locks, windows and heated seats. One is a slide connector. It needs to be pulled down. Unfortunately, some people will break this connector, so be careful. In addition, there is a wiring connector for the interior door light at the bottom of the door that needs to be removed.

After all of the connections are removed, pull the panel up and over the door handle.

Good luck with your repair and let us know if you need any additional help.
Old October 10th, 2015, 8:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mulmur1
To remove the door panel there are two 7 mm screws that need to be removed. One is located just behind the door lock handle. Use a small straight head screw driver to remove the door handle. If you gently insert the screw driver behind the outer trim ring of the door lock, it will come out easily. The second screw is located near the door handle / door arm rest.

Once you have these screws out, gently lift up on the door panel to allow access to the wiring connections, for removal. There are a couple of connections that need to be removed on the window switch. Two are your typical connector where you press the sides. this is for the power mirrors, locks, windows and heated seats. One is a slide connector. It needs to be pulled down. Unfortunately, some people will break this connector, so be careful. In addition, there is a wiring connector for the interior door light at the bottom of the door that needs to be removed.

After all of the connections are removed, pull the panel up and over the door handle.

Good luck with your repair and let us know if you need any additional help.
Thank you very much for the information. Learned a few things compared to all the YouTube videos that are posted. Every video shows a couple of different ways to remove the door panel, but every one does not have the screw behind the lock-slide and most importantly, my Suburban switch assembly does not simply rotate up and pull right off. It turns out there is a screw from inside the door panel, from the underside of the switch assembly. In my case, it doesn't need to be removed but in all the YouTube versions, there is a 7mm screw in that area that must be removed to pull off the door panel.

Unfortunately, while this was a great learning experience, it turns out that my OEM mirrors have a 26" long wiring harness, the replacement mirrors that I ordered only have a 10 ½" long wiring harness, so I couldn't complete my intended project of replacing both mirrors at this time. At least I now know what to ask for on the next set I order.

Again, thanks for posting!

Last edited by rjdjbd; October 10th, 2015 at 10:04 PM.




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