1. Make sure the magnetic clutch is engaging the A/C pump.
2. Make sure you still have Refrigerant/Freon R-134A. Engine off.
3. Disconnect battery, let it set, hook it back up. Might reset itself.
4. The fuse or relay might be under the hood, not the dash. Drivers side.
5. Might be an ECM issue. Get a scan-tool and check for OBD II codes.
6. If A/C system still has pressure, hot-wire the A/C clutch or low-pressure
switch, start engine and fill with can of sealant/ R-134A/colored leak-finder.

Wear some kind of eye/face-shielding, thick jacket and thick gloves!.

Might be your low-pressure switch is disengaging the A/C clutch. Which
means you have a leak somewhere. If no pressure, dont add R-134A, as you will
now have Atmo in your system and it needs to be vacuum-pumped down and out
to -30 PSI or it won't cool properly, and will likely still leak down once again.

Check all your A/C fittings and wires under the hood for tightness. Make sure the A/C dash
switch/dial is working as well. Might be a corrosion issue with the wiring. I use dielectric grease
to keep that from occurring on my vehicles.

Hopefully you still have a factory warranty on the vehicle? If so, make the dealership repair it.

 

Silviaspeck: Welcome to the forum.

 

only use sealant if you never want a shop to work on your a/c system. This clogs a/c machines. New machines have refridgerant purity detection. If any sealant is present, the shop will refuse to contaminate their $5000 equipment to work on your vehicle. If a leak is present, find the leak and fix it correctly.

 

I agree. Just R134A, with some leak detection color should work out fine.

 

It's easy to check the basics. Turn the air on and make sure the clutch is engaging. If it's not the most common cause is low refrigerant. I fixed a leaking condenser on my wife's Chrysler last weekend (2012 T&C). That required a system draw down and refill. With the proper tools it's an easy job. Could be some other things as well. Check the most likely first. Check the lines/condenser/compressor for a oily residue. PAG Oil will usually be found around the leak area. I have used leak stop (the expensive one) in an old Volvo and it worked like a champ for a leaking evaporator core. But, for something as new as a 2015 I would fix it the right way and not use leak stop.

 

I agree, and agree with the age of the truck. If the ac clutch is engaged, if fan is on, ac is on (etc.) no cold air out of the vents, and the ac lines have condensation, I say the system is fine, but you have an actuator problem with the blend doors. I have an 03 that did the same thing, you'd have to pull over shut it off, then restart it. I don't know if an 2015 uses that same part.