SabrToothSqrl

the 10,500 mile oil change huh? (check the photo)

I was going to do it at 3,000 since its a new engine... is 10k normal?! I was going to do 5,000s... I know I drive 'easy' on engines but wow...

in2pro

That number will change as you drive... but you should do your first oil change at about 1500 or less in my opinion to get the break in oil out and a good time to go synthetic

SabrToothSqrl

the first one is on the dealer, so I doubt they will use synthetic... the 3rd one + is on me, so I will switch then.

I heard consumer reports rated the orange FRAM as the worst... but I dont have access to the article since I don't pay for consumer reports.

does anyone here have a copy?

what oil filter brand should I get?

mudmaniac

I think you already have synthetic to get that much oil life, my 06 Silverado averaged about 7,000 miles and so does the 07 Escalade, both using synthetic oil.

Mike Sigmond

A K&N or acdelco will be fine.

in2pro

I would go with the AC Delco while your under warranty, don't give them a reason to deny you....

I checked Consumer reports site and found nothing on oil or air filters for vehicles but did find this interesting.....
No Chevy's or Ford's on this list!

The black death of sludge
A costly problem

Engine Sludge
Some 4.7 million engines sold in the U.S. may be prone to developing sludge.

After prolonged exposure to high heat, engine oil can oxidize and break down, forming deposits known as sludge. This gelatinous goo can block vital oil passages, resulting in thousands of dollars in damage or even requiring an engine replacement.

While sludge often results from poor upkeep, notably not changing the oil at prescribed intervals, some engines appear more prone to sludge buildup than others. (See the chart below.)

Sludge problems demonstrate the importance of sticking to the manufacturer’s oil-change intervals. Keep all receipts and make sure they include the date, mileage, and vehicle identification number. Consumers who own cars with sludge-prone engines should change the oil according to the “extreme use” schedule in the owner’s manual. Doing that and saving the records provides evidence that you did your best to protect the engine, should you ever have to make a claim against an automaker. Also consider using a synthetic motor oil that comes in containers bearing the medallion of the American Petroleum Institute on the label. Synthetics have a higher tolerance for extreme heat.

MODEL MODEL YEAR ENGINE COMPLAINTS
Audi A4 1998-2004 1.8L four-cylinder turbo 26
Chrysler Concorde 1998-2005 2.7L V6 473
Chrysler Sebring 1998-2005 2.7L V6 293
Dodge Intrepid 1998-2005 2.7L V6 1,902
Dodge Stratus 1998-2005 2.7L V6 127
Lexus ES300 1997-2005 3.0L V6 27
Lexus RX300 1999-2005 3.0L V6 32
Saab 9-3 2000-2004 2.0L four-cylinder turbo 33
Saab 9-5 1999-2004 2.3L four-cylinder turbo 20
Toyota Avalon 1997-2005 3.0L V6 24
Toyota Camry/ Solara 1997-2005 2.2L four-cylinder or 3.0L V6 157
Toyota Celica 1997-2005 2.2L four-cylinder 5
Toyota Highlander 2001-2005 3.0L V6 24
Toyota Sienna 1997-2005 3.0L V6 77
Volkswagen Passat 1998-2005 1.8L four-cylinder turbo 36
Source: Center for Auto Safety.

in2pro

It also had this...

For normal driving, many automakers recommend changing the engine oil and filter every 7,500 miles or six months, whichever comes first. This is sufficient for the majority of motorists. For “severe” driving--with frequent, very cold starts and short trips, dusty conditions, or trailer towing--the change interval should be shortened to every 3,000 miles or three months. (Check your owner’s manual for the specific intervals recommended for your vehicle.) Special engines such as diesels and turbocharged engines may need more-frequent oil changes.

Bugfuel

This is a good opportunity to make a comment on "engine flush" treatments and additives that are available for cleaning out that sludge. I have heard several cases where they have caused more harm than good, up to complete engine destruction. If an engine got really dirty internally and had lots of sludge/dirt/varnish or whatever deposits, these flush agents may loosen too much of it too soon, and globs of that goo may end up in circulation, eventually getting stuck at the next small orifice. Like, just before a vital bearing!

I would just start using good quality detergent oils (Which most oils today are), and start changing the oil more frequently until you think the engine has gotten clean enough. This may take months, or years even. I don't think there is a quick, safe fix. Then start following a reasonable oil change interval. And stay away from the cheapest oils.

Mike Sigmond

When I change my oil , after its drained, I take a swab and wipe it in the drain hole against the inside of the pan to see if any gunk is in the pan. I have used full synthetic since I got it new and after 6 years its still shiny & clean inside. The first few years I had it in texas I used it hard (severe use) towing 10,000 generators, and rental equiptment, etc... but I changed the oil alot then. I drive it like a baby now and am reaching 80,000 mi. I want her to last alot longer.

SabrToothSqrl

from everything I've read simply changing the oil is the most important part... more than name brand... I got 220,000 out of my last Tahoe, this one I hope to get 300k!