possible voltage problem?
February 18th, 2016, 12:42 AM
#1
possible voltage problem?
new here, always like to join forums for the car i have. just recent bought a 2000 suburban 1500 LS 4wd. doing some small things that it needs.
but i have a problem (i think) that ive tried to look up but i havent found anything solid for a solution.
as soon as i start it up, which is starts so fast it doesnt even seem to crank for a full second, the volt gauge in dash reads at the 3/4 mark, between 14 and 19. i know they arent always accurate though. i took the truck to autozone to have my batt and alt tested (dont wanna get stranded anywhere) and they said my battery failed but just barely. it holds a charge and has enough CCAs, but its from 2006 so ill be replacing it. then they tested my alt, they said it was fine, but when i looked at the screen on their tester it said it was putting out 15 to 16.5 volts. some digging has told me thats too much and will cook the battery, but the guy said that the alt is fine. i dont wanna replace the battery and then have my alt overcharge it and cook it.
now for the weird part, which may or may not be related: at idle and in park everything is fine, rpms good, no stuttering. when in drive with my foot on the brake and stopped however, i can feel a slight engine stutter or stumble, and the rpm gauge moves ever so slightly (if you looked at the gauge you almost wouldnt tell, but you can feel it). BUT when it does that, i notice the volt gauge moves with the stutter, so im thinking its related to the alternator? with my turn signals on (some of us in boston actually use the damn things) the volt gauge also moves with the ticking of the turn signal (might be normal, idk) and if i use the power windows or locks same thing. it only moves a little- doesnt go anywhere near 14V on the gauge.
it hasnt stalled yet while doing this, and as soon as im moving the stutter is gone. i will be replacing the serpentine belt once i go look tomorrow and see what size alt i have, apparently theres 2 sizes and the belt sizes are different. but is the alt bad (the voltage regulator inside it maybe)? if i have to replace the battery and alt and belt thats fine, but i dont wanna toss money at it if it doesnt need it.
has anyone else had this happen to them?
but i have a problem (i think) that ive tried to look up but i havent found anything solid for a solution.
as soon as i start it up, which is starts so fast it doesnt even seem to crank for a full second, the volt gauge in dash reads at the 3/4 mark, between 14 and 19. i know they arent always accurate though. i took the truck to autozone to have my batt and alt tested (dont wanna get stranded anywhere) and they said my battery failed but just barely. it holds a charge and has enough CCAs, but its from 2006 so ill be replacing it. then they tested my alt, they said it was fine, but when i looked at the screen on their tester it said it was putting out 15 to 16.5 volts. some digging has told me thats too much and will cook the battery, but the guy said that the alt is fine. i dont wanna replace the battery and then have my alt overcharge it and cook it.
now for the weird part, which may or may not be related: at idle and in park everything is fine, rpms good, no stuttering. when in drive with my foot on the brake and stopped however, i can feel a slight engine stutter or stumble, and the rpm gauge moves ever so slightly (if you looked at the gauge you almost wouldnt tell, but you can feel it). BUT when it does that, i notice the volt gauge moves with the stutter, so im thinking its related to the alternator? with my turn signals on (some of us in boston actually use the damn things) the volt gauge also moves with the ticking of the turn signal (might be normal, idk) and if i use the power windows or locks same thing. it only moves a little- doesnt go anywhere near 14V on the gauge.
it hasnt stalled yet while doing this, and as soon as im moving the stutter is gone. i will be replacing the serpentine belt once i go look tomorrow and see what size alt i have, apparently theres 2 sizes and the belt sizes are different. but is the alt bad (the voltage regulator inside it maybe)? if i have to replace the battery and alt and belt thats fine, but i dont wanna toss money at it if it doesnt need it.
has anyone else had this happen to them?
February 18th, 2016, 7:37 AM
#2
If the battery is on its way out, the computer might be reading it as needing to be charged, so it's trying to charge it by kicking up the voltage. I wouldn't worry about it until you replace the battery and see what happens.
With regards to the slight stutter, if the revs are dropping when it stutters, I'd expect the voltage needle to drop a little, too, as the lower revs will reduce the output of the alternator.
For a slightly rough idle, I'd start with the basics - replace plugs and wires, check the air filter, run some fuel injector cleaner through the tank. It's surprising how crappy an engine will run if it hasn't been tuned up in a while.
Look at the sticker in the glovebox. Code KG8 is the 130-amp alternator. Don't know the other code. KG8 is what I had in my '01 Burb. And buy 2 serpentine belts. I always have a spare in my trucks.
With regards to the slight stutter, if the revs are dropping when it stutters, I'd expect the voltage needle to drop a little, too, as the lower revs will reduce the output of the alternator.
For a slightly rough idle, I'd start with the basics - replace plugs and wires, check the air filter, run some fuel injector cleaner through the tank. It's surprising how crappy an engine will run if it hasn't been tuned up in a while.
Look at the sticker in the glovebox. Code KG8 is the 130-amp alternator. Don't know the other code. KG8 is what I had in my '01 Burb. And buy 2 serpentine belts. I always have a spare in my trucks.
February 18th, 2016, 10:37 AM
#4
i plan on doing all of these. im the second owner, an older couple had this and drove is across the country. other than what i mentioned, and a small valve cover oil leak, you wouldnt tell that this thing has 295k miles on it. they maintained it very well and i plan on doing the same.
on a side note, im supposed to have a keyless entry remote fob, but they only had a single key. ive found tons of remote key fobs on amazon, but they say make sure the old one has this or this number on the back. i dont have the old one. is that number important or could i just buy 2 new remotes and program them in?
on a side note, im supposed to have a keyless entry remote fob, but they only had a single key. ive found tons of remote key fobs on amazon, but they say make sure the old one has this or this number on the back. i dont have the old one. is that number important or could i just buy 2 new remotes and program them in?
February 18th, 2016, 10:59 AM
#5
Administrator
i plan on doing all of these. im the second owner, an older couple had this and drove is across the country. other than what i mentioned, and a small valve cover oil leak, you wouldnt tell that this thing has 295k miles on it. they maintained it very well and i plan on doing the same.
on a side note, im supposed to have a keyless entry remote fob, but they only had a single key. ive found tons of remote key fobs on amazon, but they say make sure the old one has this or this number on the back. i dont have the old one. is that number important or could i just buy 2 new remotes and program them in?
on a side note, im supposed to have a keyless entry remote fob, but they only had a single key. ive found tons of remote key fobs on amazon, but they say make sure the old one has this or this number on the back. i dont have the old one. is that number important or could i just buy 2 new remotes and program them in?
Might order a couple of different fobs and send the one back that doesn't work.
February 18th, 2016, 10:09 PM
#6
i found the codes list and took a pic of them. my alt code is KG8. you said here thats 130amp alt, but on another website it said thats the 105amp alt. ummm?
edit: google searched and found a pdf of all the codes and what they mean, holy crap its 188 pages long! and i have a 130amp alt, you are correct the other website is incorrect
edit: google searched and found a pdf of all the codes and what they mean, holy crap its 188 pages long! and i have a 130amp alt, you are correct the other website is incorrect
Last edited by jjmitch87; February 18th, 2016 at 10:13 PM.
February 20th, 2016, 2:12 AM
#7
bought belt, didnt put on yet. replaced battery. scanner came in, no CEL but have both codes for lean condition bank 1 and bank 2. havent cleared them yet. put my cai on. seems to do the weird stutter thing much less and the volt gauge moves less when it happens. volt gauge in the truck still reads at 16 to 17volts, im convinced its not accurate or might be faulty. but somehow replacing the battery has made my drivers window go up and down again, and the rear passenger window didnt move before but now that works. also with the blinker on the volt gauge doesnt move either, that battery mustve been real crap hah.
idle is perfectly fine, it just does the stutter part with foot on brake and in gear occasionally.
idle is perfectly fine, it just does the stutter part with foot on brake and in gear occasionally.
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February 20th, 2016, 9:19 AM
#8
Administrator
If you have a volt meter, I would check the voltage with it to verify whether your gauge is accurate or not.
I would also run some Techron through it just to be sure.
I would also run some Techron through it just to be sure.
February 20th, 2016, 11:05 PM
#10
yeah, i havent had a chance to go thru everything yet, had the truck exactly a week now haha. would have done it today while it was nice BUT i had to cover at work.