Tahoe rear problems
#1
Tahoe rear problems
I gave a 97 Tahoe and every time I stop then let go of my brakes the rear ends drops and clunks but if I put it in neutral rite before I stop it won't any suggestions
Last edited by Jayz; June 11th, 2014 at 12:17 AM.
#2
hard to tell from the discription, I fear the rear end may be going out, but start with the simple / cheap/ easy stuff. check your U Joints, see if they have some play or slop in them, maybe thats where the clunking is coming from!
#3
What transmission do you have?
Is there a transmission mount? Is it ripped or broken in pieces??
#5
rear drive shaft
does it do it if, say you are going 30-50 and downshift? then hit the gas?
check the rear driveshaft for play or worn out U-Joints.
or could be the rear ring/pinion, but I think the U-joints are more likely...
check the rear driveshaft for play or worn out U-Joints.
or could be the rear ring/pinion, but I think the U-joints are more likely...
#6
No it only does it After I stop then drive away again all the u joints seem ok. The rod that attaches to the u joints towards the fronts move a little bit left to right not sure if that's normal?
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#8
slip yoke
'towards the front' you mean the transfer case? (4x4) or transmission (2wd)?
a slip yoke slides in/out of the output of the engine side, so you don't need a driveshaft that can slide. it's a cheaper way of making the products... in the off road world it's one of the first things to go when you need a lift kit...
Reduce GMC Sierra Drive Shaft Clunk - Slip Yoke Grease Fitting Install - HOW TO - YouTube
shows you some what, what it is, and yes, if it's moving side to side, I would call that abnormal... or most likely worn out.
a slip yoke slides in/out of the output of the engine side, so you don't need a driveshaft that can slide. it's a cheaper way of making the products... in the off road world it's one of the first things to go when you need a lift kit...
Reduce GMC Sierra Drive Shaft Clunk - Slip Yoke Grease Fitting Install - HOW TO - YouTube
shows you some what, what it is, and yes, if it's moving side to side, I would call that abnormal... or most likely worn out.
#9
Administrator
Excellent idea, I would add though that the grease recommended by GM is listed below, he did not specify what grease he was using in the video and I don't think you want to use just standard wheel bearing grease...
Genuine GM Fluid 19257121 High Temperature Special Lubricant
Details:
High-quality
Contains PTFE
Multi-purpose grease
Non-melting
For use on gears, slides, bearings, cams, and prop shaft splines
Genuine GM Fluid 19257121 High Temperature Special Lubricant
Details:
High-quality
Contains PTFE
Multi-purpose grease
Non-melting
For use on gears, slides, bearings, cams, and prop shaft splines
#10
video
not sure if it's in the video, but chock the wheels BEFORE removing any driveshaft.
if you only use Park to hold the vehicle, and remove the rear driveshaft... your truck will roll free.
Setting the e-brake should hold it, but for the 30 seconds it takes to block the wheels, and not end up in the hospital or dead... please secure the vehicle.
I also don't like the rust that covers most of the underside of vehicles, so I rust stop gloss black nearly everything on the underside... just my OCD
if you only use Park to hold the vehicle, and remove the rear driveshaft... your truck will roll free.
Setting the e-brake should hold it, but for the 30 seconds it takes to block the wheels, and not end up in the hospital or dead... please secure the vehicle.
I also don't like the rust that covers most of the underside of vehicles, so I rust stop gloss black nearly everything on the underside... just my OCD
Last edited by SabrToothSqrl; June 18th, 2014 at 1:00 PM.