Tahoe & Suburban The power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.

2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

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Old November 22nd, 2010, 6:04 PM
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Just wondering if anyone has the details of a couple of TSB's that I found and I think affect my Tahoe?
The first one is for a noise in the rear suspension and is numbered 06030007.
The second one is for the outside door handle extends but doesnt retract. Its numbered 4512.

Any details on these would help since I have been searching for the noise in the rear suspension since I bought the truck. The door handle is just something that bugs me at this point but it would be nice if its something I could fix on my own..

Thanx
Old November 23rd, 2010, 7:02 AM
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http://www.mycarstats.com/reports/ch...omplaints.aspx
Old November 24th, 2010, 8:07 PM
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Thanks sabre.

I guess no one else has the lowdown on these? Looks like Im not the only one who doesnt want to pay for the info???
Old December 11th, 2010, 4:02 PM
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No.: 06-03-09-007C

Date: March 17, 2010

Subject: Squeak, Rattle or Clunk Noise in Rear Suspension Over Bumps, During Acceleration or While Braking (Inspect/Rotate Rear Coil Springs and Inspect Lower Control Arm Bolts for Proper Torque)

Models:
2007-2009 Chevrolet Tahoe 1500 Series Only
2007-2009 GMC Yukon 1500 Series Only
with Premium Smooth Ride (RPO ZW7) or Off Road (RPO Z71) Chassis Package
Vehicles Built Prior to March 1, 2009

Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-09-007B (Section 03 - Suspension).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a squeak or rattling noise in the rear of the vehicle when going over bumps, during acceleration or while braking. Also, a clunk noise may be heard in the rear suspension when jounced or moved.

Cause

This condition may be caused by the rear spring insulator contacting the vehicle's frame rail and creating the noise, or the lower control arm bolts may not be tightened to specification.

Correction

Inspect/rotate the position of the rear coil springs and inspect the lower control arm bolts for proper torque.

1. Lift the vehicle and support the rear axle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI.
2. Remove the lower shock absorber bolts and nuts.
3. Lower the rear axle until the rear coil springs can be rotated.
4. Rotate the springs to gain the most amount of clearance between the spring and the side of the vehicle's frame rail.
5. Inspect the frame rail for any bare metal. If a bare metal spot is found, apply an anti-corrosion coating (Daubert) to the frame, P/N 12346501 (in Canada, P/N 10952414) or equivalent. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and Repair in SI.
6. Inspect the spring plastic insulator sleeve for damage. If damage is found on the plastic insulator sleeve, it may be necessary to replace the spring.
7. Raise the rear axle.
8. Install the shock absorber, bolts and nuts.

Tighten
Tighten the lower shock absorber bolts and nuts to 115 Nm (85 lb ft).

9. Inspect the lower control arm bolts for proper torque.

Important
Do not tighten the lower control arm bolts unless the suspension is at ride height.

Tighten
Tighten the lower control arm to frame bolts to 140 Nm (103 lb ft).

Tighten
Tighten the lower control arm to axle bolts to 160 Nm (118 lb ft).
Old December 12th, 2010, 9:10 AM
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Thanks MD for the TSB. Hopefully it will be useful to more than just me?

I tried rotating the passenger side spring and so far after a day of driving I havent heard the noise at all. I do have a couple of questions about the instructions on this TSB.
!. What exactly is the spring Isolator? Is it the rubber hat on top of the spring or the hose looking stuff that wraps partly around each spring?
2. Should I change whatever they are if rotating the spring stops the noise? In other words is it likely the noise will come back if I dont change it?
3. I dont realy undestand the torque proceedure on the control arms and why the weight needs to be on the suspension before? Is this just to prevent binding or is it simply the best way to get the correct torque?

Thanx again MDTAHOE
Old December 12th, 2010, 12:03 PM
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The insulator they are talking about is on the spring. It seems the only way to replace it is to replace the spring. Any time you tighten control arm bolts the arm should be at ride height to make sure the bushing is not in a permanent bind at ride height causing premature failure.
Old December 13th, 2010, 8:05 PM
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Thanx again MDTAHOE for your help, still no noise from the back of the Tahoe.
I thought they must be talking about the Isolator on the top of the spring but thought I would just check to be sure.
Obviously this is enough of a problem for there to be a TSB but I wonder if it will come back after awhile??
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