Voltage reading
#1
Voltage reading
Hi Guys,
My first post on this Forum ..my Vehicle is a 1999 Suburban with 50ks on the clock .,,very clean cond..
I have a few faults that i want to ask about.
1st- Pulled in at home tonight and the battery light came on and its showing approx 11 volts on the dash gauge with the battery light on also...tested the battery and the alternator with a reading of 13.2 volts on both..all lights on ..enigine on..aircond on..showed
13.0 volts...any ideas ?
2nd fault. Driving at 100 lkm i get a clunk in the drive line ..no loss of power ..feels like an electrical misfire but no backfire..everything is tight through the diff and drive shafts (no freeplay)...any ideas on this..
Thanks in Advance.
My first post on this Forum ..my Vehicle is a 1999 Suburban with 50ks on the clock .,,very clean cond..
I have a few faults that i want to ask about.
1st- Pulled in at home tonight and the battery light came on and its showing approx 11 volts on the dash gauge with the battery light on also...tested the battery and the alternator with a reading of 13.2 volts on both..all lights on ..enigine on..aircond on..showed
13.0 volts...any ideas ?
2nd fault. Driving at 100 lkm i get a clunk in the drive line ..no loss of power ..feels like an electrical misfire but no backfire..everything is tight through the diff and drive shafts (no freeplay)...any ideas on this..
Thanks in Advance.
#2
Hi Guys,
My first post on this Forum ..my Vehicle is a 1999 Suburban with 50ks on the clock .,,very clean cond..
I have a few faults that i want to ask about.
1st- Pulled in at home tonight and the battery light came on and its showing approx 11 volts on the dash gauge with the battery light on also...tested the battery and the alternator with a reading of 13.2 volts on both..all lights on ..enigine on..aircond on..showed
13.0 volts...any ideas ?
2nd fault. Driving at 100 lkm i get a clunk in the drive line ..no loss of power ..feels like an electrical misfire but no backfire..everything is tight through the diff and drive shafts (no freeplay)...any ideas on this..
Thanks in Advance.
My first post on this Forum ..my Vehicle is a 1999 Suburban with 50ks on the clock .,,very clean cond..
I have a few faults that i want to ask about.
1st- Pulled in at home tonight and the battery light came on and its showing approx 11 volts on the dash gauge with the battery light on also...tested the battery and the alternator with a reading of 13.2 volts on both..all lights on ..enigine on..aircond on..showed
13.0 volts...any ideas ?
2nd fault. Driving at 100 lkm i get a clunk in the drive line ..no loss of power ..feels like an electrical misfire but no backfire..everything is tight through the diff and drive shafts (no freeplay)...any ideas on this..
Thanks in Advance.
#3
Super Moderator
Sounds like you're headed in the right direction, in replacing the Alternator.
After all is done, periodically check on your resting battery voltage, needs to be 12.4vdc or greater at all times, or, a situation called "Sulfaction" will occur. That's a death sentence to your battery.
After all is done, periodically check on your resting battery voltage, needs to be 12.4vdc or greater at all times, or, a situation called "Sulfaction" will occur. That's a death sentence to your battery.
Last edited by SWHouston; May 21st, 2016 at 7:30 AM.
#4
I'm hitting about 120K on my 96 and I am starting to have problems with the electrical.
My Suburban is acting as if the fuel filter is clogged when it is first started, then after a couple of minutes running it stops and everything is fine. (The fuel filter has been replaced 2-3 years ago under the driver side.) There has been some backfiring. I've thrown fuel treatment in and the sputtering clears up (But it is also a 35g tank )... so I'm thinking I might need a tune up to replace the plugs, plug wires, distributor... I'm just not sure if I need to replace the plug wires etc... (How do you know, and how do you test?)
The other thing I was contemplating was stepping up the alternator (From factory) to a higher amp and maybe looking for a larger battery, because running the AC seems to put a drain on the battery. My volt gauge is around 9/10 instead of up near 14 where it usually rides. I don't think anything on the electrical has ever been changed out, so I am wondering if anybody else has run into the same sort of problems and what did they do to remedy the problem... (Like, are the tune up kits worth my time or are they a waste, or should I wheel the beast down to AutoZone to get them to just check the codes...)
Any help is appreciated.
My Suburban is acting as if the fuel filter is clogged when it is first started, then after a couple of minutes running it stops and everything is fine. (The fuel filter has been replaced 2-3 years ago under the driver side.) There has been some backfiring. I've thrown fuel treatment in and the sputtering clears up (But it is also a 35g tank )... so I'm thinking I might need a tune up to replace the plugs, plug wires, distributor... I'm just not sure if I need to replace the plug wires etc... (How do you know, and how do you test?)
The other thing I was contemplating was stepping up the alternator (From factory) to a higher amp and maybe looking for a larger battery, because running the AC seems to put a drain on the battery. My volt gauge is around 9/10 instead of up near 14 where it usually rides. I don't think anything on the electrical has ever been changed out, so I am wondering if anybody else has run into the same sort of problems and what did they do to remedy the problem... (Like, are the tune up kits worth my time or are they a waste, or should I wheel the beast down to AutoZone to get them to just check the codes...)
Any help is appreciated.
#5
Super Moderator
You didn't say just what you had, but, at 20 years old, yea, do some work.
Plugs, Wires, Cap and possibly Injectors, assuming they are OEM.
You really need to be running higher run voltage.
But, there really isn't any need to go with bigger stuff.
Just put a Battery and Alternator on it, that it calls for.
Plugs, Wires, Cap and possibly Injectors, assuming they are OEM.
You really need to be running higher run voltage.
But, there really isn't any need to go with bigger stuff.
Just put a Battery and Alternator on it, that it calls for.
#6
You didn't say just what you had, but, at 20 years old, yea, do some work.
Plugs, Wires, Cap and possibly Injectors, assuming they are OEM.
You really need to be running higher run voltage.
But, there really isn't any need to go with bigger stuff.
Just put a Battery and Alternator on it, that it calls for.
Plugs, Wires, Cap and possibly Injectors, assuming they are OEM.
You really need to be running higher run voltage.
But, there really isn't any need to go with bigger stuff.
Just put a Battery and Alternator on it, that it calls for.
I still have a factory alternator. The stator seems good, but I'm probably going to have to hunt down brushes soon.
My problem ended up being a Mass Air Flow and it cost me about $8.00 to fix with a can of MAF cleaner. I can't believe that a little bit of film over the air flow sensors made so many problems. I put in a new battery a few weeks later Group 78 Interstate so it will be another 10 years before I need to replace that. The can of MAF spray solved all of my problems... I'm still blown away by it.
I'm starting to look at JEGS, & NAPA for tune up parts.