Tahoe & Suburban The power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.

2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

Which year should i get?

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Old February 28th, 2014, 7:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe In NY
you guys are lucky. You should see my list of problems with the 07...
Unfortunately you got stuck with a lemon.
Old February 28th, 2014, 7:20 PM
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I would like to know the "Major List of problems plagging the 07's" I dont know if the
2500 series were immune to the listed problems but other than broken exhaust manifold
studs (common on the 6.0) and the rear diff. output seal leaking due to a badly scored
yoke, thats it for mine with over 100,000 miles
Old February 28th, 2014, 7:55 PM
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Rear shocks
Front struts-need to be done
2 air compressors
-One summer the rotors wrapped and the calipers locked up all at different times, went through 3 sets of pads in one summer (2011)
2 front rotors
2 front brake calipers
front left wheel bearing
left front rotor, again
u-joints
needs the lifters to be replaced (thankfully still running good!)
rear lift gate latch went due to one plastic gear stripping against a metal worm drive, causing the NAV, CD, DVD, and Rear lift gate not to work, the door opened on the highway, thank you harbor freight tow rack! ($400 for latch!)
Lift gate wire harness leaks water, seal has to be reseated constantly
starter went open circuit (yes open, not short), almost left us stranded
alternator needs to be replaced soon as it like to charge at 15.2 volts!
front left drive shaft went right before FL trip
passenger seat lumber does nothing
cracked dash
all but 2 of the outlets burned out, (gm has a great engineer! 5 amp wire to feed 10 amp self popping outlets on 20 amp fuses, what a genius!)

all I can think of for now... 2007, bought Jan 2009, with ~50,000 miles, daily driver, family not allowed in, to now with 132K (2002 Burb, the suspension sensors needed to be replaced, and intake gasket, that all for 6 years and 100k miles)

Last edited by Joe In NY; February 28th, 2014 at 7:59 PM.
Old March 6th, 2014, 9:53 PM
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I just got a 14 for a steal. They are discounting the hell out of em cause the 15's are out already. I got 10,367 off of sticker and it had 9 miles on it. Just something to think about
Old March 7th, 2014, 2:56 PM
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Default Routine maintenance

Joe, I think you need to check yourself. Of the things listed below, most are routine maintenance... Did you replace them with Genuine OE parts or are you creating a mystery machine? Did you do the work yourself, if not I'd take it to a new shop.

I replaced everything "routine" on my 2008 for a trip out west. Rotors, pads, shocks, plugs, wires, etc. Besides being an oil burner(AFM!), and the DVD player having random optical errors, everything is happy on my 162,000 mile 2008 LTZ 4x4. Suburbans are not little wanna be SUVs, they're trucks. That means U-Joints, Seals, etc. All Common 4x4 areas of maintenance.

Plastic and metal are always used together small gear mechanisms. A property designed system has a weak point, it's the mechanical fuse.

I've run a lot more than 10 amps on my outlets, I even bridged the two in the Rear to run an A/C inverter at higher (20+) amperage. No issues yet.

Do not confuse a POS with a machine that's never been maintained.

Originally Posted by Joe In NY
Rear shocks
Front struts-need to be done
2 air compressors
-One summer the rotors wrapped and the calipers locked up all at different times, went through 3 sets of pads in one summer (2011)
2 front rotors
2 front brake calipers
front left wheel bearing
left front rotor, again
u-joints
needs the lifters to be replaced (thankfully still running good!)
rear lift gate latch went due to one plastic gear stripping against a metal worm drive, causing the NAV, CD, DVD, and Rear lift gate not to work, the door opened on the highway, thank you harbor freight tow rack! ($400 for latch!)
Lift gate wire harness leaks water, seal has to be reseated constantly
starter went open circuit (yes open, not short), almost left us stranded
alternator needs to be replaced soon as it like to charge at 15.2 volts!
front left drive shaft went right before FL trip
passenger seat lumber does nothing
cracked dash
all but 2 of the outlets burned out, (gm has a great engineer! 5 amp wire to feed 10 amp self popping outlets on 20 amp fuses, what a genius!)

all I can think of for now... 2007, bought Jan 2009, with ~50,000 miles, daily driver, family not allowed in, to now with 132K (2002 Burb, the suspension sensors needed to be replaced, and intake gasket, that all for 6 years and 100k miles)
Old March 7th, 2014, 3:21 PM
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sorry but oil, pads, and plugs are things I consider maintenance. Not that list of problems. Our 2002 never had a thing wrong with it. Always drove fantastic, you wanted to drive. This is just a suv, not special and has needed much more work than we would have expected.

Remembered another, tranny line is leaking.

How does a 2002 treat us so much better than an 07... Lower standards is all, I just have to lower my standards then I guess I would be happy...
Old March 7th, 2014, 4:33 PM
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Joe, you got a lemon. Crap happens. You can't paint the entire GMT900 line with a broad brush because of 1 bad truck.

While I loved my 01, my 08 is a huge improvement. More capable, better towing, better handling, more safety features, more creature comforts, more power and better mileage. I think it's better looking, too.

The full-size trucks are GM's bread and butter. They're the highest-selling, and most-profitable line for GM. With the bitter rivalry between Ford, GM and Dodge on their fullsize half-ton trucks, you can bet your behind that GM wasn't going to cut corners.
Old March 7th, 2014, 4:36 PM
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Of course, the funny part is the OP posted the question, and has never returned to check on the replies. Meanwhile, this thread refuses to die.
Old March 7th, 2014, 4:58 PM
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i said go for 2002. Very comfy, quiet. Looks great. Love the looks of 2002, no stupid afm to go wrong and you can find many down south still in great shape for cheap
Old March 7th, 2014, 7:31 PM
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Originally Posted by intheburbs
Of course, the funny part is the OP posted the question, and has never returned to check on the replies. Meanwhile, this thread refuses to die.
Yea, thats common practice on Vehicle specific forums. Plenty of 1 hit
wonders that need info then they dissapear. I guess i will keep it going, my 07
built in Mexico is probably the best vehicle purchase i have made and ive been a licensed driver for 40 years. I live in an area where we have extreme climate.
we set a record this year with 53 days of Sub zero overnite-morning temps
We also have 90 deg. temps in may. My interior is Almost perfect. yes the steering wheel has the peeling issue and there are some small cracks in the driver seat (leather interior) However the dashboard is Pristine, the door handles are perfect and the body side cladding (LT) model has not faded
The steering is as tight as ever, the rear shocks are original, the pliugs have yet to be changed despite 100,800 miles on them. Maybe i got lucky, maybe
the 2500's are built better?? i dont know. However i am an adult and i drive for a living (trucker) I dont drive like a jerk-off. I stay way below the speed limit, i dont have to pass someone just because they are in front of them. i dont bark the tires and TRUST ME, the 6.0 will do it. The roads out here are decent. I lived in NY, the city as well as Suffolk county and the roads out east SUCK and that takes a toll on a vehicle. My only rant is i wish GM did a better job with
coating the frame or suspension parts. They use tons of road salt here and every spring i am under the Burb wire brushing rust off and respraying parts with rustoleum


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