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Old Jul 29, 2015, 11:43 AM
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'07 + DIY Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Replacement - 20 minutes!

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Old Sep 15, 2014 | 1:04 PM
  #11  
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Default Something to make this easier

These switches can be a pain, but two things that make it much easier is to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail and buy or borrow a wheel step. This is a platform that hangs on your tire so you don't have to crawl on top of your engine. Don't forget to relieve the pressure on the fuel line before removal.
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 2:44 PM
  #12  
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thanks this helped me out alot!
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 5:35 PM
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while you have the switch out, replace the screen underneath it. it could be fill will crud causing the problem in the first place. If you can get it out without damaging it, you could wash it out. I prefer replacement.
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 4:36 PM
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Originally Posted by tech2
while you have the switch out, replace the screen underneath it. it could be fill will crud causing the problem in the first place. If you can get it out without damaging it, you could wash it out. I prefer replacement.
I have not done this or seen where it is (the screen) but I'll ask the question anyway.. once the sensor is out, can you get enough access to the screen to hit it with carb cleaner to clean it out and then do an oil change afterward to remove the contaminated oil ?
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 7:03 AM
  #15  
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the small cup shaped screen sits just below the sensor. Lift it up and out to remove it for cleaning. carb cleaner will work fine.
I have seen dirt and metal shavings on this screen. It will be loaded with crud for those who continuously run the olm to 0%.

Last edited by tech2; Nov 10, 2014 at 7:09 AM.
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 3:09 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by in2pro
I have not done this or seen where it is (the screen) but I'll ask the question anyway.. once the sensor is out, can you get enough access to the screen to hit it with carb cleaner to clean it out and then do an oil change afterward to remove the contaminated oil ?
That's a good question. One that I was wondering about as well.

Now, more than a year and many thousand miles later, with synthetic and earlier change intervals - I haven't had a repeat 'failed sensor' code. Pressure consistent and running as normal.
I'm now even more confident that in my Burb's case the apparent sensor failure wasn't a failure but a sludge at the screen issue.
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Old Nov 16, 2014 | 12:51 PM
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Default Oil Pressure Sensor

I replaced the sensor about 1 week ago. Had no problems out of it until today. Started the vehicle got to the end ml of my street and the check engine light, oil pressure light, and stabilitrak light came on. All these lights came on the first time as well. The code that came up on the last engine reading with P0521 which was Oil Pressure Sensor High Voltage. Any information on any possible fix for this problem?
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 7:29 AM
  #18  
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year, model, engine, new body style or old, afm or non afm?


-did you check the oil level?
-did you install an aftermarket part or gm?
-did you check the sensor filter screen?
-any engine knocking when the low pressure light/message occurs?
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Old Nov 17, 2014 | 8:48 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by tech2
year, model, engine, new body style or old, afm or non afm?


-did you check the oil level?
-did you install an aftermarket part or gm?
-did you check the sensor filter screen?
-any engine knocking when the low pressure light/message occurs?
Add to that
-what type of oil has been used (synthetic or conventional)?
-what have your oil change intervals been?
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Old Nov 18, 2014 | 12:49 PM
  #20  
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2007 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L 4x4
Checked the oil level it was good, the new part was aftermarket, couldn't get to the screen filter, no knocking and noises when the light is on, conventional oil (high mileage), and about 3000-3500 miles
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