1999 Chevy Suburban Air won't cool at idle speeds-
February 20th, 2013, 11:50 AM
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1999 Chevy Suburban Air won't cool at idle speeds-
I know older cars don't cool at idle speeds very well and yes, mine is an older diesel ...the air just doesn't get cool in town or idling. I had the a/c completely redone last year and it works great if you don't have to drive at slow speeds, or if it's 107 outside. My question is, if I have it refitted with an a/c made for a newer year suburban, will this solve my problem? Newer cars/trucks now cool with no problem at stop lights, etc, so therein lies my line of thought....any ideas?
1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 LS 6.5 L Turbo 2wd
1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 LS 6.5 L Turbo 2wd
Last edited by poppee59; February 20th, 2013 at 11:52 AM. Reason: added info
February 20th, 2013, 12:49 PM
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I'm sure the low rpms has a lot to do with it...but I was kinda grasping straws, wondering if a newer year a/c would do better.
February 21st, 2013, 7:30 AM
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Engine temp low....160-170 is the norm. I'm checking the fan clutch this morning. And yes, the a/c is pressurized to the proper levels. Thank you for the answers. This is the 2nd reference I've had to the fan clutch- appreciate your help!
February 22nd, 2013, 12:35 AM
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Steps to Increase Cooling
All the suggestions here are in the right direction IMHO,
1) Establish that the Fan Clutch is operating properly by hand (cold turns freely)(hot turns with resistance). If you don't have a Clutch Fan, then skip this step.
2) You could increase the number of blades on your Fan. Increasing that will help. I've seen Fans which had as many as eleven (11) blades, Nine (9) is more usual for extra cooling. Those types can move a LOT of air at slow speeds/RPM's. This applies to Clutch or Standard Driven Fans.
3) I'd do a good Clean/Flush on the Cooling System.
4) Make sure that ALL hoses aren't collapsing (have good internal wire support).
5) See that the Thermostat is opening fully at the recommended temp. (stick it in hot water and check with a Thermometer).
6) Rod/pro clean the Radiator, and make sure that it's the one that should be on your vehicle. You also could search for another Radiator which had more tubes (thicker) which is designed to cool better (frequently found on vehicles which have "Cooling Packages" installed).
6) Possibly find another "smaller" shive/pulley for the Fan. Smaller will drive the Fan and Pump faster.
7) Consider (if AutoTrans Equipped) to separate the Tranny Oil out away from the Radiator, to an AddOn Cooler of it's own. There's more than one way to do this (requires further discussion).
8) Check your Coolant proportion. 50/50% gives you the best transfer of heat.
9) Take Vehicle by a Radiator Shop, and have them check/sniff the headroom/air in the Radiator for any Fuel Gas which may be leaking into the Cooling System. Even a small amount, which won't/doesn't immediately effect your Reservoir level, can make a large difference in cooling.
10) Do a good visual inspection of your Water Pump (or just replace it) and make sure that the blades are in good condition, and able to drive the Coolant with sufficient volume.
11) When system is completely assembled, operate Cabin Heater(s) full hot. And establish that there are no pockets of Air captured in cooling system.
Good luck !
PS: Don't change the A/C out.
This is a stock Post I had written previously, it may contain suggestions mentioned already...sorry.
1) Establish that the Fan Clutch is operating properly by hand (cold turns freely)(hot turns with resistance). If you don't have a Clutch Fan, then skip this step.
2) You could increase the number of blades on your Fan. Increasing that will help. I've seen Fans which had as many as eleven (11) blades, Nine (9) is more usual for extra cooling. Those types can move a LOT of air at slow speeds/RPM's. This applies to Clutch or Standard Driven Fans.
3) I'd do a good Clean/Flush on the Cooling System.
4) Make sure that ALL hoses aren't collapsing (have good internal wire support).
5) See that the Thermostat is opening fully at the recommended temp. (stick it in hot water and check with a Thermometer).
6) Rod/pro clean the Radiator, and make sure that it's the one that should be on your vehicle. You also could search for another Radiator which had more tubes (thicker) which is designed to cool better (frequently found on vehicles which have "Cooling Packages" installed).
6) Possibly find another "smaller" shive/pulley for the Fan. Smaller will drive the Fan and Pump faster.
7) Consider (if AutoTrans Equipped) to separate the Tranny Oil out away from the Radiator, to an AddOn Cooler of it's own. There's more than one way to do this (requires further discussion).
8) Check your Coolant proportion. 50/50% gives you the best transfer of heat.
9) Take Vehicle by a Radiator Shop, and have them check/sniff the headroom/air in the Radiator for any Fuel Gas which may be leaking into the Cooling System. Even a small amount, which won't/doesn't immediately effect your Reservoir level, can make a large difference in cooling.
10) Do a good visual inspection of your Water Pump (or just replace it) and make sure that the blades are in good condition, and able to drive the Coolant with sufficient volume.
11) When system is completely assembled, operate Cabin Heater(s) full hot. And establish that there are no pockets of Air captured in cooling system.
Good luck !
PS: Don't change the A/C out.
This is a stock Post I had written previously, it may contain suggestions mentioned already...sorry.
Last edited by SWHouston; February 22nd, 2013 at 1:48 AM.
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February 23rd, 2013, 8:21 AM
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We all thought it was the fan clutch, even Chevy, until they decided it was the condenser, itself. So, I'm putting that in (via Chevy) and if that's not the problem, I'll let ya know. Thanks for all the answers!
February 23rd, 2013, 1:19 PM
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Sorry, but am I understanding that you/GM is replacing the A/C Condenser !?
If that's true, would you mind explaining just how that conclusion was made.
(iow: Were the fins blocked, bent where air wouldn't flow through...why)
Save for accidental/unintentional air blockage, I just can't imagine how/why they think that's the problem !
If that's true, would you mind explaining just how that conclusion was made.
(iow: Were the fins blocked, bent where air wouldn't flow through...why)
Save for accidental/unintentional air blockage, I just can't imagine how/why they think that's the problem !
Last edited by SWHouston; February 23rd, 2013 at 2:54 PM.
February 27th, 2013, 12:40 PM
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I meant to type compressor. It was clogged with there's no telling what. Not the condenser. Let it sit at idle for quite awhile in 80 degree weather (which is the best I can get right now) after the install and it got very cold- pretty happy about it. The real test will come next month when the hot weather starts hitting. Thanks for all the answers.