So I was underneath my hood today figured I needed to add some oil since I know there is an oil leak going on somewhere. So whenever I removed the oil cap to add more oil to it it just did not look right for starters there was this white yellowish milky substance on the inside of the cap and also inside of the block

 

The milky white yellowish substance on the inside of the oil cap is the result of moisture mixing with the oil and forming an emulsion of water and oil. The likely cause of this is frequent short trips where the engine does not get up to full temperature for enough time in order to adequately heat the engine oil up to operating temperature and drive off the moisture that has collected in the engine oil pan. This is especially true in wintertime when the outside air temps are much cooler than the rest of the year.

Now, if you do take frequent long trips and the engine does get up to full temperature and the oil does as well and drives off the moisture, then you could have engine coolant leaking into the oil. If this is the case, you need to determine the cause of the leak (a bad head gasket for example) much sooner rather then later.

Have you looked inside the coolant recovery tank to see if there is any oil floating around inside of it? If so then you could have a head gasket leak.

 

I didn't even realize I had posted this the other day I knew I had started it but didn't realize it actually posted cuz I was trying to add pictures right along with it but for some reason it was not allowing me to add pictures because it kept saying if it wasn't the correct format or something but yeah someone also told me it was probably a blown head gasket as well I have looked in the coolant Reserve but that was only to see if there was actually any coolant inside of it which there is but I never paid attention to see if there was any oil I'm going to try again to post pictures and see if it works if not I guess I'm going to have to use my laptop and help and pray it works that way

 

And also I threw a code reader on there and all these damn codes popped up when it's never been that many before

 

My first thought about the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) is that they are either historical or there is some kind of an electrical problem. HOWEVER, I have a couple of questions before I dare give an "official opinion". First, is the Check Engine Light on the instrument cluster illuminated when the engine is running? Second, when you initially start the engine, does the Check Engine Light illuminate for several seconds and then go out? Third, how was the engine running (normally, stumbling, missing, underpowered) before you discovered that you were low on engine oil?

The first thing I would do is to erase all those DTCs, drive around and then in a day or two, throw your OBDII code reader back on and see what the current codes are.