wvr1117

I replaced the radiator and the wheel bearing assembly on the diver's side front wheel. When I got it all back together and refilled, I got in to start the car and NOTHING. No dash lights, no clicking, no nothing.

I retightened the battery terminals - no luck.

I disconnected the starter terminals, cleaned them and reinstalled.

I checked the charge on the battery. Full charge - lots of amps.

I disconnected the two ground wires on the inside of the engine compartment, cleaned them and reinstalled them. No luck.

There is a break in the circuit of the system, and I can't find it. Any suggestions?

sergeimoskva

Hi ! Check - starter relay and terminal G200 (passenger side)
(see the picture)

wvr1117

Thanks for the suggestion. I know where the starter relay is and can easily check it. Is the G200 on the inside of the vehicle behind the glove compartment? That's where it seems to be from the drawing.

sergeimoskva

Hi! See if you can locate the large connector C200 . According to the service information, the terminal G200 must be above the connector C200

markfothebeast

If you've got no power to ANYTHING, it appears you may have possibly bumped a poor connection, main ground or power wire. A main 60 amp fuse could have failed as well. The simple things are often overlooked. Here's a couple simple methods for testing the battery cables and grounding system.

Method 1 - Easy Test (Jumper Cables)
Negative battery cable quick test WITH battery connected - Remove crossmember above battery (3 bolts?), fumble around moving fusebox to access negative battery terminal. Attach one end of the jumper cables to NEGATIVE battery terminal. Touch the other cable clamp end FIRMLY to a ground on the engine or chassis and listen for a "click" coming from the fusebox relays or a sign of the vehicles electrical system powering on. A good ground location to clamp to is the alternator bracket. If there's power to the vehicle you have a faulty negative battery cable.

Positive battery cable quick test using jumper cables - Battery must be connected. Place one jumper cable clamp on positive battery terminal (hold other clamp end in hand - do not touch to engine/chassis/metal). Remove fusebox cover, place other jumper clamp on underhood fusebox main terminal connector (only exposed connection on front of fusebox near passengers headlight). If the vehicle now has power, the + battery cable is at fault.


Method 2 (Multimeter)
If you are handy with a multimeter, set it to ohms. Disconnect the + battery terminal. Begin by testing the ground connection continuity. While holding one probe on the negative battery cable end, firmly touch the other probe to each one of the following:

1. Engine block and/or alternator bracket
2. A visible Chassis/Body Ground Connection

Each reading should be near .05 ohms. Probe between engine block and chassis ground - should also be near .05 ohms. Anything over 1 ohm of resistance is showing a poor ground wire or connection. If the multimeter reads O.L., there is NO continuity (faulty ground cable/wiring).



Testing positive battery cable
With hood open, remove main fusebox cover. Fusebox is above the battery. It might bite you if you don't see it. The large wire connected to the terminal on the fusebox is part of the + battery cable as well. This powers the entire vehicle. Probe between this main terminal/cable on the fusebox and the positive (red) battery cable end. Should read near .05 ohms. Anything over 1 ohm is a sign of a failing cable or poor connection. Examine the fusebox terminal for corrosion. OL reading on meter = faulty battery cable.