Two issues going here:

1. Gas gauge swings wildly @ times. I had to replace the fuel pump a couple of years ago, and when I did, they had a refit on the power connector. Anyway, I crimped them on and let it ride. Recently, I decided to redo the electrical connections and soldered them this time. Ever since then, the fuel gauge is almost always either completely full or it's completely empty. Did I fry something soldering it maybe, or just coincidence?

2. Replaced the alternator the first part of last week, and now my high beams won't work. Indicator light on the dash comes on, but everything is out in the front. Also, the right low beam is out too. They all worked before I started. Did I mess something up pulling that alternator (which was a bear to get to, btw. Had to pull the windshield wiper motor to get to it).

Any and all suggestions and thoughts appreciated.

Peace,
Blane

 

It may be your headlight switch or it fuse protection is faulty. When headlights are turned on the same circuit that powers the high/low switch also tells the DRL module to shut down its lighting relay in turn turning off the DRL indicator and allow the beam switch to have control.

 

OK, so the headlights were blown. When I hooked up the positive battery connector, I stripped the bolt a bit, so it wasn't seating/holding super-good. The next time I started the van, it caused a voltage spike which fried the bulbs. News ones in place after getting a new batter post bolt.

Still wondering on the gas gauge... :-)

 

The gas gauge issue is fairly common. It is usually one of 2 issues. First, it could be a shorted wire between the sending-unit in the tank and the gauge. Second, it could be wearing of the 'fingers' on the sending-unitactuated by the float inside the tank.

Since it occurred when you soldered the connections, it's probably a short. Does it seem to happen as you drive (I.E. when the vehicle is bumped around) or will it still swing around as the vehicle is parked?

Wear on those 'finger' contacts starts off as an occasional issue, but as the other contacts wear, it gets worse and worse. The bumps on a new sending unit are quite distinct. On the last one I replaced, only the 2 on the high side (indicating a full tank) worked. The car would go from "466 miles to empty" to "65 miles to empty" pretty consistently.

 

Well, since the unit is 2 years old this month, I doubt that it's wear. I suppose that I could have cooked something or shorted it together, but I used shrink tubing on the connections after I soldered them. I suppose I could drop the tank again and take a look.

Might have to do that anyway - it will occasionally not start after having making a short run then stop (ie. to the grocery store). I know that it's fuel related, 'cause I have spark and it starts when I put gas in the filter chamber. Very strange. I have gotten a few evap codes, but that shouldn't keep it from starting.

 

When I had this issue, it was under different circumstances. My van had high-ish miles, the failure was over a period of 3yrs, and the failure wasn't full-or-empty at first.

Don't discount that you could have a bad unit. Check the connections and the harness connectors and see if they are loose/damaged/stretched.