Mechanic_Not

I have a real mess left by my former mechanic. He swapped the engine several thousand miles ago and have had to replace the intake manifold gasket, trany pan gasket, injectors, etc. He handed me a box of parts when he brought the truck back and told me they were left over. He didn't torque anything. I have tightened more bolts than I can count. He cracked my dipstick tube because he was too lazy to remove the exhaust manifold when he realized he forgot to install it before mounting them.

So, a few days ago, I got a leak in my radiator, the engine overheated and blew the head gasket. I had been making great progress making the repairs until I tried to pull the dipstick tube out. The end broke off (because it was cracked) and fell into the abyss. Now I am pulling the engine. I have the engine chained to a hoist and all of the bolts out of the bell housing to engine. 4.6L Auto. My repair manual describes removing the drive plate bolts by removing a cover that does not exist on my truck. Another procedure I found says remove the bell housing bolts and PULL REAL HARD, LOL. There is a hole that I can see into the bell housing and there is a couple of bolts that appear to mount the flywheel? to the torque converter? , but the head of the bolt is not really accessible. I don't see any way to remove them, so I don't know about those. I don't really want to start prying on this thing until I am sure that its not going to make this job worse than it already is. I realize this is a very long question, but I am hoping the answer is simply "PULL REAL HARD". Any suggestions?

70mopar

i'm pretty sure u mean your truck has the 4.3 in it, not a 4.6. for someone who say's he's not a mechanic u sure r brave trying 2 fix somebody else's mess.

re: the (3) torque converter bolts, rotate the engine (using a breaker bar, 3" extension, and a socket), using the bolt in the end of the crank pully-the socket should b a 5/8. *b careful when turning over the engine, u don't want the bolt 2 break*. rotate the engine 1/3 of a turn so that the converter bolt is easily accessable from where the starter would b. use a large screw driver or a medium sized pry bar against the teeth on the flex plate and the edge of the trany housing (left side of the housing) 2 keep everything from turning, as the rotation will b going this way when the bolt(s) r removed. repeat 4 the other 2 bolts. then gently slide the converter back into the trany (away from the motor). the trany can b slid back from the engine once u loosen the trany mount bolt on the cross member-the trany will still be on the (2) dowels in the back of the engine, so b careful, 'cause if u're not expecting it, it can drop down quite fast on u.

u didn't say if your plans were 2 remove the trany or not, so if u plan 2 leave it in while u pull the engine, make sure u secure the front of it up somehow. u sound like u have a pretty good idea of what u're doing, but any other questions, feel free 2 post them on the forum. good luck.

Mechanic_Not

70mopar, thanks for your help.

Your right, I have a 4.3L not a 4.6 and it's not so much bravery. I simply have more time than money. I wasn't about to take it back to that guy. Besides, I keep getting tools for Christmas and need to maintain credibility with my family so I will get more tools this Christmas.

I found the bolts right where you said they would be. Everything went smoothly and the engine is back in and I am getting ready to bolt the heads on. I had them resurfaced already. I should be able to get it running by tomorrow.

Thanks again for your help!

70mopar

glad 2 see everything went well. looks like u r on your way 2 building your credibility with the family. here's 2 a job well done. [sm=icon_cheers.gif]