aquaaveo

Look up 2 posts to panzom's post and follow the how to fix it link. I added a few suggestions, but his buddy gets big kudos for doing the big thinking work. Mine is up and running. I had lost brake lights, dash lights and the lights are on/key is in the ignition "Ding, Ding". I have them all back now. Mine is a standard shift so there was no light to lose on the shifter.

Plan on a couple of hours. Be patient, it was a bit frustrating.

The Todd

I had the same issue, Passenger side tail light was out along with the dash lights, however I noticed the little red light on the passenger side near the back Still came on with the lights, So I jumped the power from that light to the blue wire on the passenger side tail light, which not only fixed the tail light not coming on issue, but back fed the system and Dash lights work as well. :-)

svetac74

Hello,
I had the same problem with my 2005 Chevy Aveo. Instrument table lights not working, some of the outside lights not working while the blinkers are working and similar. So I suspected that something other was a problem other than just a blown fuse or a light bulb. Speaking of that I checked all of the fuses and nothing was bad.

First of all let me tell you that all of this forum and information here was very helpful when I encountered the same problem.

This will work only if you can find a spare part that I will describe bellow. I saw some solutions where people simply spliced the wires, but I am not that knowledgeable, plus I was reaaaaaaaaaly lucky to find the spare part.

After reading these posts I looked at my distribution box with fuses under the hood and junction block on the right side looked burned (see pics).
First thing that I did is checked the local junk yard and found a 07 aveo that just made it into the junk yard 2 weeks prior to me looking . I went there and pulled the entire fuse junction box along with some cables that I could cut - I was so lucky that I was even able to find this !!!!!!!!. This was invaluable as I was able to play with this box and figure out how to get certain components out without breaking them.
After a long learning curve, the results are this.
I had to replace the burnt junction block with the new one from the part I got.
Apparently they have realized that this wiring is a problem and in newer model seem to have fixed the problem. Therefore the junction box that I got was not wired the same way as mine.

Few pointers regarding this.
Getting the junction box out is a trick - use screw driver into a hole on the side where the junction box is attached to the housing and bent it outward until you can slide the junction box up and then pull it out. Once you pull it out, you have to remove the top clip as it presses on all of the connectors inside the junction box. Junction box has 2 small notches on the sides where you can slide in a small screw driver and gently and patiently work it out until the cover of the junction box comes off. Don't hurry this otherwise you will damage the junction box cover. Once you remove the cover, next comes removing the terminal connectors.

My junction box was so burnt that I had to cut some wires and connect them to the wires from the new junction box. Still I wanted to save all the original wires from the side of the junction box that was not (yet) burnt to minimize the need to splice wires. I numbered each wire and port that it comes from from my junction box before cutting them.





Also, removing these connectors from the junction box terminals was a bit of a learning curve before I figured it out. Use a tiny flat screw driver and carefully bend the plastic handle inside each terminal and then gently pull the cable out from the other side. I say carefully as the plastic handles tend to break if you do it too hard.

Once terminal connectors were out I had to connect wires back to the terminals according to the scheme I had numbered for my car and model and connect the wires to the correct old wires. Plugged it all in and put back and all the lights and display are now working.

Christopher Robert Maguire

the brake light sensor is what is causing your gear shift to lock, the part is like 8 dollars at autozone, and takes about two seconds to put in. the part is located behind your brake pedal, when you get down in there on your back and you're looking up,you'll see something that looks like a pump. thats what you hear when you press your brake pedal in. right in front of that, is a black button that is pressed in when you press in your brake pedal. that is your brake light sensor. turn it counter clockwise, it will come loose out of its housing and then replace it with the new one and turn it counter clockwise until it clicks. this should eliminate that part of your problem.