hdreams

Just wanted to say thanks to all in this thread. Based on the information here as well as couple youtube videos, I was able to replace my evap vent solenoid myself on my 2005 Suburban.

I am NOT mechanically inclined. If I can do this...anyone can.

I got a check engine light a month ago. I took to auto zone and they pulled 0449 code (evap vent solenoid) and 0455 code (evap large leak). After reading here and watching a few videos (and having the dealer tell me it would probably be a $350 job), I concluded that the vent solenoid had probably gone bad (causing the 0449 code), and the computer was unable to close the valve and create a vacuum during the emission test (causing the large leak code). I got the replacement part for $20, figuring if I was unable to fix, I was only out $20 and some frustration.

This past weekend, I crawled under my suburban and replaced the solenoid. It was a pain, and took me about 45 min, but well worth the time to save $300+ dollars.

I am not small and I don't have a car lift or anything, so it was a tight fit and close quarters under the car. The solenoid on my car was just about directly over the rear differential (or at least what I think is the rear differential). I was a tight fit getting two hands onto it but I was able to get to it without removing any other parts. Unplugging the electrical was easy. Getting the hose off was a b*tch. I used a small pair of pliers to squeeze the release arms open and managed to wiggle the hose off. Took 10-15 minutes and several attempts. Lastly, getting the part off the little metal clip that holds it to the car was also a pain the rear. I used a very thin flathead screwdriver to pry the middle part of the clip up and then wiggled the solenoid off. This also took 10-15 minutes and several attemtps. Putting the replacement part in was simple - took maybe 1 minute, slide it into the metal clip, plug in the electrical and reattach the hose (making sure everything is tight/snug).

Started the car and the check engine light was still on. Drove to Auto Zone and asked them to clear the code. The guy told me no, he couldn't do that it was against the rules or some such nonsense (I was surprised and frustrated), but I walked back out to the car, started it up and the check engine light was gone. Hasn't come back since. I am guessing that the computer attempted to do the emissions test again upon start up and it was able to close the new replaced solenoid, pull a vacuum, and cleared the codes itself.

Sorry for long post. I am fairly proud of myself that I was able to fix myself, and very happy I spent $20 versus $350. As I said before, if I can do this fix, literally anyone should be able to if they have an hour of time and some patience.

RoosterPSR

There was a lot of good info listed for the P0449 code. I was able to get the parts that I needed at my local Napa store. I change the Canister Vent Valve $30 and it took about 10min. Did not kill the light. Then changed the Canister Purge Solenoid $34 took 5min. Engine light still on.... Disconnected battery and that did not do it. Reading a little more some folks said to drive for 5-10 miles.

Drove a block down the street and the light went off!!!! Very simple project and the photos in the forum are very helpful.

The parts that I got from Napa did not require any additional wire changes. Was simple plug and go!!

mthodgson

Hi folks, new to this forum and looking for a little extra guidance. I have a 2003 Tahoe 4WD with the 5.3L non flex fuel engine and about 41K miles on it. About a month ago, the check engine light came on and I read the code and like most here, it showed the P0449 and P0455 codes. Over the Christmas break, I got up under the car and with the spare tire removed, was able to eyeball the valve. What I found was almost unbelievable in that the valve appears to have been struck by some object and all but cracked open like an egg. I can only assume that I must have hit something in the road, got it caught in the differential U-Joint and flung it upward into the vent solenoid. Went to the auto parts store, bought a new valve (BVM brand?) for $30 and replaced it. Reset the code and voila, went away. Put it all back together and drove off.....light stayed off. Got up next day, cranked truck, light comes on. Tear it all down again, check connections, etc....nothing changed. Go to auto parts store again, buy another valve, go home and change....light goes off for a while, then comes back on. Drive vehicle most of the weekend until fuel level down to about an eighth of a tank....reset light....stays off. Crank it cold, stays off....wont come back on. Go to fill up tank. Crank car to leave gas station, light comes back on. Reset and comes back on immediately. Ideas? have not changed any other valves, etc. Thanks, Mike

daniel k

replace vent solenoid but code p0449 came back on 2012 gmc acadia also replace purge valve any ideas what it would be next to get code p0449 to clear thanks for your help dan

in2pro

Welcome to the forum!

You will need to inspect all the hoses as there could be a crack in one of the lines. A shop will do a smoke test by pumping smoke into the system and looking for where it comes out.
I went a bit lower tech and systematically disconnected lines on my wife's minivan and blew into them lightly enough as not the blow something out but enough to see if they seem sealed... it led me to a line that had a split in it....

daniel k

It's there a way to bypass it so the check engine light goes off have to have emissions pass inspection love new jersey if fail will have to pay garage to reinspection thank you for help will check it out tomorrow am