in2pro

Probably not as I can get a 6 quart case of M1 from Costco for $27( with coupon) so I might as well do the oil and filter at the same time, but I certainly could as Blackstone is reporting that my oil still has plenty of life...

57chevythunder

-just read through this thread with great interest, as I am going to try the oil sample service on our new Impala. (-just for my own curiosity and education, not for extended interval reasons.) I was going to use the Wix Filter Corp kit as listed on Amazon, but now I wonder if there is a reason I should instead use the Blackstone service?

I probably really shouldn't admit this, but way back 30-some years ago in the good ole USAF working as a electronics tech, one of my responsibilities was maintenance of a S.O.A.P machine (spectrometric oil analysis program) on a SAC Base. At that time they pulled an oil sample on every one of their fighter jets at the end of every flight. -all I'm saying that for, is that I am certainly familiar with the concept of oil sample analysis, and especially the importance of establishing a "normal base line" and consistent record keeping for each particular engine of interest.

So, I don't mean to ever come across as more knowledgeable about any topic that what I actually may be, and please understand it has been a long time ago. None-the-less, I'm thinking a lot of, if not most of the basic elements of the data produced by this procedure still applies. And even way back then, the program very accurately detected and reported "metals" of all sizes, easily right on down into the single-digit "micron" sized particles.

So here is what came to mind regarding some of your metal readings. I strongly suspect that the majority of those metals, -and I think maybe Iron in particular, will be way way too small to ever be trapped by a 20 micron automotive engine oil filter. It is just a simple mechanical fact.

So then with that in mind, of course we ask ourselves, "well then how do I get those metals out of my oil ?" Once again, the answer is so simple that we can easily miss the obvious: Drain out the old oil and put in new.

Honestly, it just need to me much more scientific than that. BUT, me being the nut that I am, I still want to establish my base-line norms, and then watch for any changes outside of that normal range.

AND on a related topic, just think about these wonderful "extended oil drain intervals" that have been dumped on us !! -not a real comforting thought, huh,,, I once studied a very extensive report that was an exercise in determining just exactly what sized particles (in microns) have to be filtered out in order to stop wear on internal engine parts. It was very interesting. As I remember, without digging out the report and pouring through it, things like piston wear stopped at a fairly high number, (-like teens or maybe 20's??) crankshaft journals I think were not too much less, and so forth. But the one that sticks in my mind was camshafts, lifters, and followers: Particles had to be smaller than 2 or 3 microns before wear ceased.

So, isn't that a whole bunch of stuff to consider,,,,,,,,

-and oh, by the way, those little magnets you are using on your oil filter can do an amazing job of trapping even microscopic iron!! I have cut apart many filters, and have seen it for myself. In my very biased opinion, a very good idea!

in2pro

57chevythunder Thanks
My primary start of this was to see if I was going to be a victim of the failing AFM lifters and still suspect that the high metals I was seeing was due to the lifters wearing... I have also since added the Range AFM deactivation device so my next oil change will include an analysis and hopefully see all normal range readings for a vehicle with 100k miles on it...

The magnet is really and old school idea but I think many auto manufactures have gotten away from it 1) for cost, .10 cent magnets in millions of transmission pans and oil drain plugs add up 2) people just don't keep cars like they used to and reliability has gone way up 3) there is money to be made by replacing failed parts ...

sledge.impy

My previous 2002 j-body 2.4L has a magnet on the drain plug, which surprised me to find. Always some sort of shavings were caught by it.

My 94 f-body does not.

57chevythunder

Good points guys. -come to think about it, my 2002 Sierra also has a magnet built in to the tip of the oil drain plug. -and Yup, it always has a thin layer of "black fuzz" on it at every oil change. I see I was saying "iron" in my post, when I should have been saying "all ferrous metals". -reason is, I was just thinking about that steel cam drive chain on the 3.6's.

So, I will definitely be using a magnet on the oil filter can on this new Impala, and of course cut the can open after each change to see how much ferrous metals it has trapped.

in2pro

Got my report back from Blackstone, looks like my Range AFM disable is doing its job as the metals found in my first analysis were very high and after adding the Range the levels have come down and consumption has stopped
After 6000 miles I had to add NO oil
They recommend I watch my oil pressure due to a slight elevation in lead, I have seen no issues with pressure from observations of my dash gauge....

GunnyV

Got blackstone oil report back, says all is good for my engine in the Tahoe 5.3/V8 LT1, 4000 miles straight to California and return to St. Louis with nothing added. Also Blackstone has raised the price from 25$ to 28$ for future reference. Thanks Forum! Lots of great information here.

in2pro

Good to know about the price increase, I noticed this time they didn't automatically send me sample containers, no biggie just have to remember to ask for them before my next change comes up..