Ok, I had posted a steering problem on the same post where I had started a post on the Evap. of this truck but Gumby22 suggested that I start a different post for the steering problem so here I am. Thank Gumby22. Anyway, Yes, I did bleed the power steering after I replaced the pump and new lines and I did have the front end lifted to do that., went from full left to full right a few times until there were no air bubbles inside the pump. I got the pump at O'reillys here in town. I'm going to start by cleaning all the grease points first and than go ahead and grease all the joints and than go from there. Thanks to all for the help that you are giving me, its very much appreciated.

 

Sorry for the delay - I kept forgetting to respond to this.

When you bled the system after the pump replacement, did you run the engine right away, or did you bleed the system before starting the engine?

Bleeding needs to be done in 2 stages:

1) Manual - Engine off. Turn the wheels stop to stop several times, making sure to check and top off the fluid level until it stops dropping.

2) Power - Engine running. Repeat same steps for manual bleeding.

If you ran the engine without manually bleeding the system first, it’s likely the pump was damaged and needs replacement again. You’d have to use a PS system diagnostic gauge to verify, or take your chances attempting to return/exchange it.

 

Thanks Gumby 22 for your response. Right after I replaced the pump and hoses and got it all done, I filled the pump up with fluid and than lifted the front end to bleed the system. I went from full left stop to full right stop 3 times with engine off. Than, I started the engine and repeated the same procedure, making sure I filled the pump every time.
Over the weekend I went ahead and greased all the fittings and all that is good now. I am starting to think that I have a defective new pump. I am going to see if I can return it and get another one and try again. Thanks again for your help.

 

In my experience, it takes at least 10-15 complete stop-to-stop turns before the system is ready for power bleeding. How many depends on the type of system (with or without hydro boost, for example). Sometimes it can help to hold the wheel at full stop for a few seconds before turning back the other direction.

You’ll notice that, as you’re bleeding, the steering wheel will feel like it’s skipping or bouncing - that’s air being pushed through the system (assuming there’s no other reason for the skipping, such as a binding linkage or column). When the skipping is no longer present, the wheel turns smoothly with consistent effort.

My tell-tale sign to begin power bleeding is when the effort to turn the steering wheel is consistent.

FYI when the wheel is turned left, fluid is siphoned into the steering gear - when it’s turned right, fluid is pushed out of the gear and into the cooler/reservoir.

Sometimes it can help work air out of the system by only turning the wheel 1/4 or 1/2 turn a few times before going stop-to-stop.

If you have a handheld vacuum pump, you can pull a vacuum on the reservoir and monitor the vacuum as you turn the wheel. Pull 15 in-Hg of vacuum and make sure it holds, then slowly turn the wheel. As the vacuum drops to 5-10 in*Hg, pause momentarily and allow it to recover, then repeat.