I have an issue with my passenger door binding up when I try to close it. The door will bind up, pop, then close. I recently replaced the door pins on both sides and it still pops. Any idea?

 

Not sure exactly what you mean by pops, but if the hinge pins were worn to require replacement the striker post on the door pillar might need to be readjusted.

 

x2 on that. Just remember to only loosen the striker pin enough to adjust it - if you fully remove it, the body nut inside the B pillar could fall and you’ll have to remove the trim to retrieve it (can be a real pain if it’s a single cab).

Other checks:

1) Make sure the door seal is properly seated/installed all the way around.

2) Inspect the door jamb areas (door and cab) for signs of contact/interference, identifiable by shiny metal where the paint has been scratched/rubbed off. Also check the front end of the door for catching on the fender.

3) With the door shut, inspect the door-to-cab gaps on all sides. The gaps should mostly be parallel and come together only slightly at the corners. If any of the gaps are not parallel, the door hinges aren’t square to the cab and/or door. The bolts will need to be loosened to adjust properly - if you’re not sure how to do it, any body shop should be able to do it quickly and cheap.

4) Make sure there’s adequate lubrication on all moving parts of the hinges. There’s a spring between the door and cab that can cause a popping noise if it’s rusty enough.

Penetrating oil will work, but the ideal lubricant is white lithium grease.

The door and cab should be contacting the seal independent of each other. Put another way, if the seal were removed, and the door is properly mounted, there should be a gap between the door and cab all the way around.

 

My fault, the problem isn't when the door is closed. The problem happens when the door is all the way open. When I try to close it the door binds then when i pull it harder the door pops and then I can close the door.

 

How badly were the old pins worn? Were the bushings completely worn out so that the metal on the hinge where the bushing sits wobbled out? If so the bushing won't sit tight and cause a problem.

 

In that case, the most likely issue is the door is catching on the front fender.

 

the doors were sagging but the pins and bushings were intact

 

While closing the door, you should be able to watch from inside the different hinge pieces to see what's popping. My 93 Sub does this sometimes and the culprit is a black wheel with notches all around. I move the door to take pressure off it, clean it with WD 40, spin it 180 degrees and apply motor oil to all hinge components. I try and lube all hinges on doors & hood twice a year.

 

Check the roller pins, they're probably bent. They can be replaced. Easier to do this when changing the door pins. Also check the cams that the rollers ride on (that check the door positions) for pointed peaks or uneven face wear. Grind them more round or flat if needed. Not too much, just to remove sharp disfigured peaks. Cunningham Machine makes some nice parts for both of these jobs.