FEandGoingBroke

Timing:

new cam sensor (three times)
new distributor (bought by previous owner)
new crank sensor
new timing chain and gears.

cam crank synch failure: p1345

scan tool: Snap-On MT2500 old red brick-

I went a tooth forward, a tooth back because people think I’m retarded. I did it to appease them: no start either way.
Distributor and rotor are spot on as in the photos, starts but cam retard is up to 39 degrees. I slotted the hold down, I spread the finger tips to give me some physical advance. I got it to a minimum of 19 degrees, (once it was -7degrees but after swapping to another new cam sensor under warranty- I could only get 19)

factory values are -+ 2 degrees.

do is this a schitt distributor from China, or a PCM issue?

I’m stumped and need your assistance

97 350, 4x4 auto with ac.

FEandGoingBroke

Thanks for the title upgrade. 😎

FEandGoingBroke

Well looks like nobody has any thoughts on this.

so I just ordered a new distributor from Amazon from ac-billet with a lifetime warranty.

im starting to believe the reluctor on the distributor top shaft was installed incorrect by that guy over in Taiwan. This problem is a pain n the bottom. lol

Gumby22

If you’re not aware, cam signal needs to be checked at 1200 RPM.

Have you checked/verified any voltages at the cam or crank sensors?

FEandGoingBroke

I have not checked the voltage to or from the cam or frank sensor. Not having a crank code I haven’t done that. If there was a ground loss the obdII system should pick up on that, same for cam sensor. Since no other codes are present I didn’t do the tests.

I’m going to start it again here in a few, hold it at 1200 for a few minutes while watching the data flow on my scanner.

there aren’t any cam adjustments I can make through the scanner in regards to the cam sensor, currently I have the non adjustable distributor pushed to the slop max and I’m sitting at -19 advance on the cam, rather that 30 when the distributor is in the OEM position. One tooth on this distributor is 3/4 the distance between the #1 tdc, and the #8 pickup stud in the cap. Same distance away from #1stud if I retard it a tooth.