00obs

Sorry been a while since I've written back. Haven't had a whole lot of time to work on the truck lately, but I finally was able to finish removing all the bolts this morning. The top two were extremely rusted and the bottom one came out with no problems at all. Removed the first mounting bolt on the 17th, then the second on the 24th, and finally this one today 🤬. Anyways, got the old freeze plug out, had a fairly large hole in the middle, Tried popping it out with a ball peen hammer and punch, but the punch was too short so I ended up using a broken breaker bar and a 4lb sledge hammer to beat it out lol. Fell into the block but I was easily able to get it out.

Now the challenge is getting a new freeze plug in. I bought a steel plug a couple weeks ago, but I had a friend tell me that a brass plug may be easier to drive in because it's a softer metal. Bought a brass one anyway because heard it's better for corrosion. I've also heard a lot of debate whether you should put RTV or something on or not. It sounds like either way is fine, I'll probably skip unless ultra grey rtv or red loctite works (That's what i got at the house).

Anyways, I've got the new freeze plug pressed in the hole barely just to keep foreign things out of the engine block for tonight. I didn't try for long but I tried beating it in further with a hammer and socket, but I can't really get a good hit on it with a hammer. Not sure exactly how I could get access to it, the shock absorber and its bracket might be in the way, but I still wouldn't be able to get a straight shot at it since the frame is in the way as well.

I'll be gone in the morning but I may try and see if I can figure something out during the afternoon tomorrow. If I make any progress I'll write back here.

Gumby22

You may need to completely remove the through bolt from the other mount to get enough lift to install the plug. If you have access to an engine hoist or equivalent to lift from the top that would be ideal.

As to RTV or other sealants, keep in mind the plugs are an interference fit - they don’t use sealant at the factory because it’s a freshly machined, clean surface. When they’re being replaced due to leaks like this, there’s several imperfections in and around the sealing surface, even after cleaning.

As the plug is installed, 99% of the sealant is being scraped off the plug and forming an “o-ring” of sorts around the perimeter of the plug, where it meets the block, and filling in all those imperfections.

It’s fine if you don’t want to use sealant - I just recommend it to prevent doing the job twice.

00obs

Freeze plug is in!

Unfortunately I decided it would be better to use the rubber expansion plug because I couldn't get a direct hit with a hammer onto the brass plug. I've filled the cooling system up with distilled water and so far no leak. However, I did realize that I may have tightened the rubber plug a little too much lol. Think I crushed the metal plate on the outside by tightening the nut too much. Will this cause problems in the future? If so I'll go back to the parts store and grab another plug. I took a picture but the website isn't letting me attach it here.

If it doesn't leak within the next day or two I guess I'll put everything back together and run it for a while. I have a radiator pressure tester, but I lost one of the adapters used to grab onto this style radiator cap thing so I think i'll just have to run it and see what happens. The truck came with a new radiator so I'm not sure if the one right now is leaking or not.

Thanks for all your help. Don't think I could've done it without you!

Isaac

Gumby22

As with metal, those plugs expand with heat, so unless the additional tension causes the bolt to break when it expands, it should be fine. Just keep an eye on it for the first few drive cycles.

00obs

Found the adapter for the coolant pressure test. Pressure tested to about 3 psi and noticed a bubbling noise. Uh oh! Checked freeze plug, not leaking or anything. Did see a couple drips coming from front of engine. I thought maybe the water pump was leaking, but after further inspection found that it looked like it was coming from behind the ac compressor (ish). I felt around back there and I can feel some kind of rubber or gasket. Maybe an intake manifold gasket?

And then I looked under the truck again and noticed a second leak coming from the back of the motor!! Can't remember exactly but think it was running down engine to transmission to exhaust then dripping to the ground. When you said you weren't kidding!

I was really happy to get the freeze plug ordeal done (hopefully), but now I've got bigger issues I guess. Hell I've only ran the motor for about 3 minutes in my ownership... who knows what else could go wrong. I'll try and stick a camera or a mirror or something up in the back of the motor and see what's leaking. If it's one of those freeze plugs in between the motor and trans, think I'll just count my losses and sell the thing lol.

Gumby22

I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s the intake gasket, especially at that mileage. You should be able to verify with a good light and mirror or inspection scope if you have one.

To verify if it’s a freeze plug at the rear of the engine, there should be an inspection plate (or access plate to drain torque converter) you can remove from the bottom of the transmission. Use a flashlight and try to look at the gap between the flex plate and engine as well as the perimeter of the engine to trans mating surface inside the bell housing - if it’s a plug at the rear, you should see coolant not only dripping down the back of the block but also around the perimeter as the crank/flex plate will “throw” it everywhere.

00obs

Ordered upper and lower intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets... Hope that's the problem because it's quite a bit of work! About 90% sure it is, though. Could be a broken plenum too.

Gumby22

FYI, if there’s excess grease/grime build up on the intake, using low pressure hot water prior to disassembly will help remove the bulk of it, with or without degreasers.

For anything that’s left, penetrating oil works well to break it up and make final cleaning easier.

And, if necessary, the dishwasher can be very useful for cleaning parts once they’re off.

00obs

Sorry it's been so long,

Finally got the truck running again. Lots of other things going on so not much time to work on the truck. Got the intake off and replaced gaskets. Everything going great. Go to put it back on and the last bolt breaks. Uh oh! Spent a super long time trying to extract it/ drill it etc. Was gonna put a helicoil in there but i boogered up the hole enough that i wouldn't have been able to tap it. So I tried the next best thing, JB weld. Failed twice. Thought about just going to get the cylinder head repaired but I dont have the time or money so I said screw it and just put a little extra rtv around the bolt hole. Not sure how long it'll last but we'll see. Broke the plastic distributor housing at the top so had to buy a new distributor, put it in and I guess i didn't get it lined up with the oil pump drive correctly so it ran without oil for a couple seconds. Quickly realized my mistake so I corrected that this morning. Also did a coolant pressure test and found the water pump was leaking so replaced it as well. Other than the timing being off a little bit it runs good. When i get time i'll try to do some fine tuning with my scan tool.

Thanks for all the help!