I have a 1996 k1500 5.7
I bought it recently as it has been sitting in my co workers pasture for about 10 years. It had a pack rat in it but I think I have fixed everything that is needed to get it to at least try and start. I have replaced battery, crank shaft position sensor, coil and module, new cap and rotor, and new wires. Fuel pump is apart currently no fuel to it except I have poured some into the throttle body. Have tested everything and I'm getting no power or spark from coil with key on. All fuses test good. Cranks over really well.

 

There are still many possibilities. The ignition switch might be bad, but more likely is that there are still some damaged wires either under hood or under dash.

 

Ignition switch is my next buy. I don't have any power now going to 2 fuses now. Ecm 1 which I think is a 10 and another one.

 

Did you get this figured out?

Fuse ECM 1 is a 20 amp - it supplies power to both the ignition coil and ignition module via the pink wires and should be hot with the ignition switch in run and start.

The black/white wire at the ignition module goes to ground at the cylinder head.

If you establish power to the coil and power and ground to the module and it’s still not producing spark, check for a pulse signal from the ECM on the white wire at the ignition module. An analog meter works best here for visual inspection, but a digital one will work if it has a min/max recording function. Check for a consistent DC signal switch between 0 to 4 volts while cranking. If it’s intermittent or not reaching 4 volts (within 1/2 volt - depending on the meter it may not read fast enough to catch the peak reading which is why analog is better) inspect the wiring harness for damage. The white wire connects to the ECM at connector 3, cavity 10.

 

I haven't got this figured out yet, as I'm waiting for my ignition switch to get delivered. I also have no power at the fuses on the inside fuse box 8, 14. Which is crank and illumination. I will update if the ignition switch doesn't get it to fire up.

 

If you still don’t have power to the crank fuse with the new ignition switch, check for power on the 2 heavy gauge red wires - these are the power inputs for the switch and are fed directly from the underhood fuse box. Maxi fuses 5 (50A) and 6 (40A) supply these circuits and receive direct battery voltage.

The illumination circuit fuse is fed from the dark green wire at the headlamp/dimmer switch.

 

Just replaced my ignition switch and I have power to all fuses now! But now my left turn signal is on without my turn signal being on....lol

 

Okay, new ignition switch is in. No spark from coil nor plugs. I have power to all my fuses except to #8 10amp (crank) and #14 10amp (illumination). What is wrong!

 

You have no power to those two fuses? Is the crank fuse good?

 

Sorry, just checked it crank fuse is good. Only have no power to illumination fuse. Would having the fuel pump not hooked up yet cause a no spark?