I'm having an issue and running out of ideas. My truck wouldn't start. I replaced the altenator and battery, it started right up. I drove it for 10 min and turned it off. It would not start again. It produced no cranks and read 0 volts. I took out starter and had tested. Starter was good. I reattached. I took a volt meter to everybody I could think of. Good 12 volt reading on battery, altenator, engine ground, and outside of starter read 12 volts. ALL fuses were good (not sure about the boxy grey fuses under the hood, or if they even matter). My thought is it may be the ignition switch. Would a bad ignition switch cause my truck to read 0 volts and produce no cranks? And would it start once and then just not? Is there a way I can test my ignition switch? Ive already pulled apart my steering column.. PLEAAE HELP
my engine size is a 5.7L V8 350. 2x4. When I have the battery hooked up (key in on position) I ran a volt meter from positive batter term to then engine ground bolt (where negative battery cable goes directly from battery to attach at engine block) and it read 12 volts. I connect the meter to the battery and altenator and also read 12 volts. For thw starter (key in on position) I got my reading from the outer body of it, reading 12 volts. Is there a way I can run the volt meter on my ignition switch? When I go to start my truck the gauge reads way less than 9 (not digital gauge) and starter makes NO SOUNDS. All other accessories work (radio, lights).. Starter ia good. Had tested at auto zone. Battery is new. Altenator is new ( 2nd new one as well)

 

model year engine?

 

Please clarify - first you state that it wouldn’t crank and had 0 volts - then you state after testing the starter, everything in the engine bay had 12 volts?

Also What do you mean you had 12 volts on the engine ground? Where are you placing the meter leads when performing your tests, and when are you doing them (key on engine off or during cranking)?

A bad ignition switch can cause a no crank, but a complete battery drain takes time, especially when it’s new (assuming the battery is good). Even with an alternator that isn’t charging, you could drive for at least a 1/2 hour before the battery discharged enough to shut down.

Are you sure the battery cables are tight? Nearly all GM vehicles of this era use side post battery terminals from the factory and they all have problems with loosening up over time as well as initially feeling tight due to the insulator sleeves on the terminals. If you can rotate the cables, they’re not tight enough. Remove the insulators (some slide off with the bolt removed, some have to be cut off), thoroughly clean the terminals, and install new bolts. Take them down snug then an extra 1/8-1/4 turn depending on how tight they feel. Apply a protective coating (there are battery specific products, but even spray paint is better than nothing).

 

New info added

 

Year of vehicle please

 

Truck is a 95' chevy c1500 2x4 5.7L V8 350

 

Try these tests with the black meter lead attached to the negative battery terminal.

Battery voltage is your reference, so check its voltage before doing these tests - for the sake of describing them, I’m going to use 12 volts.

1) Key Off, you should have 12 volts at the following locations:
-Alternator charging cable
-Starter battery terminal
-Fuse box battery feed

2) Key in cranking position (have a helper hold the key), you should have 12 volts at:
-Starter solenoid ignition terminal (small wire - if you don’t see 12 volts here, it’s an issue with the circuit between the ignition switch and starter).
-Starter Motor terminal on solenoid (not the battery cable - the other large terminal that leads to motor)

3) Key in cranking position, touch the red meter lead to the starter case - if it reads more than 0.3 volts, replace the ground cable.

Results of cranking test will determine the next steps.