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Guide to diagnose trouble and recommended solutions.
05 Silverado Drivers Side Heater Problem
November 2nd, 2011, 10:55 AM
#12
Thanks
<O
> </O>
Hopefully I helped you more than confused you. I promise it’ll make much more sense when you’re looking at it. Sorry for the lengthy explanation. I know a lot of my terminology especially with the actuator probably isn’t what these parts are technically called, but I’m not really a car guy, I was just cold. let me know if you have any questions or need a picture of something. good luck.
> </O>Hopefully I helped you more than confused you. I promise it’ll make much more sense when you’re looking at it. Sorry for the lengthy explanation. I know a lot of my terminology especially with the actuator probably isn’t what these parts are technically called, but I’m not really a car guy, I was just cold. let me know if you have any questions or need a picture of something. good luck.
November 27th, 2011, 11:27 AM
#13
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The dogg is da man. I tried the battery disconnect didn't work. I took of the floor heater dispersement plastic thingy to give me some room ( one screw near the back of the right side . I disconnected the wire plug to the actuator. Then I took off the 2 screws holding the actuator and pulled it down and off. I also hack sawed the front black plastic thing in front of the actuator. ( probably not nescessary but I'm old and I couldn't see under there too good.) i grabbed the rod coming down in the back and turned it too the left. Wallaaaa!!!!! heat on the drivers side and defroster on the driver side. This is my work truck and has 250K on it. I just need it to make it through one more winter and I'll buy a new one I hope. it's not pretty but it's done. thanks Dogg!!!!!
March 21st, 2012, 1:19 PM
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at any rate, this is what i did. (you'll probably need 7mm & 5.5 mm or the closest standard equivalent, tiny slotted screwdriver, large slotted screw driver for prying, some configuration of extensions, swivels, adapters. i took the black plastic kick plate off from under the dash. i think i had to use a swivel at one point and a 3/8 drive w/ 1/4" adapter because the extension for the 1/4" drive was too long. when you get it removed, you can see the blower motor (bosch) on the far right of the passenger side and its resistor (mine needed replaced because the fan only worked on "5"). You might also have to remove the duct work extension to the passenger side, but it just slides off.
the blend door actuator for the driver side is located just above the corner of the tranny hump on the passenger side. it is mounted to the bottom of the shiny black duct work. you should be able to see the black and red wires on the pigtail that plugs into it. it also has a red clip holding the pigtail in place. <o>></o>>
<o>></o>>
the blend door actuator for the passenger side is mounted on top of the duct work directly above the driver's blend door actuator. access to it requires the removal of the glove compartment panel and possibly other dash panels. <o>></o>>
<o>></o>>
the mode door actuator is located on the drivers side way up in the dash above the corner of tranny hump. is it mounted on it's side. This is probably not your problem if you trouble is similar to mine, but it's good for reference.<o>></o>>
<o>></o>>
At this point, hopefully you are in a quiet place. i put the truck in accessory, turned the fan off and moved the passenger temp control from hot to cold or vice versa. you should be able to hear the actuator motor spinning. listen closely, it's hard to hear. try the driver's side actuator. mine didn't make any noise so i removed the driver's side actuator by unplugging the pigtail, removing the the two mounting screws (gold, 5.5mm), and wiggling it back and forth. the actuator has a hole through the middle of it, connected to a gear inside, that sits on a post. basically, several plastic gears turn inside it, and rotate the hole which has two flat spots to grip the post. the hole moves the post which is connected to the bottom part of the blend door. When you remove the actuator, you will be able to turn the post by hand, and you should hear the blend door moving inside the duct work. If you can’t it is stuck and you need to try and free it up. I then used a small slotted screw driver to pry open the actuator. Everything in mine looked good. The gears weren’t stripped and nothing looked burnt. I pulled one of the plastic gears out (the one contacting the black one that turns the “hole” ). I repositioned the black gear a little bit. You’ll notice is has two contacts that slide along a circuit board. (Circuit boards are like magic to me.) To me, it looked like possibly those contacts slid off the board. With cover off, I used two small wires and the truck battery to test the actuator. Mine was spinning freely. I decided to hook the actuator back up and see what happened. You may have to reposition the black gear to get the hole and the post to line up. If your actuator isn’t working or you don’t feel like messing with it, a new actuator is about $155. Once I determined that actuator seemed to be functioning ok when I moved the temp control, I decided I would leave the kick panel off for now. If it quit working again, as a cheap fix, I would take the actuator off again and turn the blend door by hand to hot for the winter. When you think about it, there’re an awful lot of moving parts, switches, circuit boards and a motor to open and close one stupid little door. <o>></o>>
<o>> </o>>
Hopefully I helped you more than confused you. I promise it’ll make much more sense when you’re looking at it. Sorry for the lengthy explanation. I know a lot of my terminology especially with the actuator probably isn’t what these parts are technically called, but I’m not really a car guy, I was just cold. let me know if you have any questions or need a picture of something. good luck.
the blend door actuator for the driver side is located just above the corner of the tranny hump on the passenger side. it is mounted to the bottom of the shiny black duct work. you should be able to see the black and red wires on the pigtail that plugs into it. it also has a red clip holding the pigtail in place. <o>
></o>><o>
></o>>the blend door actuator for the passenger side is mounted on top of the duct work directly above the driver's blend door actuator. access to it requires the removal of the glove compartment panel and possibly other dash panels. <o>
></o>><o>
></o>>the mode door actuator is located on the drivers side way up in the dash above the corner of tranny hump. is it mounted on it's side. This is probably not your problem if you trouble is similar to mine, but it's good for reference.<o>
></o>><o>
></o>>At this point, hopefully you are in a quiet place. i put the truck in accessory, turned the fan off and moved the passenger temp control from hot to cold or vice versa. you should be able to hear the actuator motor spinning. listen closely, it's hard to hear. try the driver's side actuator. mine didn't make any noise so i removed the driver's side actuator by unplugging the pigtail, removing the the two mounting screws (gold, 5.5mm), and wiggling it back and forth. the actuator has a hole through the middle of it, connected to a gear inside, that sits on a post. basically, several plastic gears turn inside it, and rotate the hole which has two flat spots to grip the post. the hole moves the post which is connected to the bottom part of the blend door. When you remove the actuator, you will be able to turn the post by hand, and you should hear the blend door moving inside the duct work. If you can’t it is stuck and you need to try and free it up. I then used a small slotted screw driver to pry open the actuator. Everything in mine looked good. The gears weren’t stripped and nothing looked burnt. I pulled one of the plastic gears out (the one contacting the black one that turns the “hole” ). I repositioned the black gear a little bit. You’ll notice is has two contacts that slide along a circuit board. (Circuit boards are like magic to me.) To me, it looked like possibly those contacts slid off the board. With cover off, I used two small wires and the truck battery to test the actuator. Mine was spinning freely. I decided to hook the actuator back up and see what happened. You may have to reposition the black gear to get the hole and the post to line up. If your actuator isn’t working or you don’t feel like messing with it, a new actuator is about $155. Once I determined that actuator seemed to be functioning ok when I moved the temp control, I decided I would leave the kick panel off for now. If it quit working again, as a cheap fix, I would take the actuator off again and turn the blend door by hand to hot for the winter. When you think about it, there’re an awful lot of moving parts, switches, circuit boards and a motor to open and close one stupid little door. <o>
></o>><o>
> </o>>Hopefully I helped you more than confused you. I promise it’ll make much more sense when you’re looking at it. Sorry for the lengthy explanation. I know a lot of my terminology especially with the actuator probably isn’t what these parts are technically called, but I’m not really a car guy, I was just cold. let me know if you have any questions or need a picture of something. good luck.
I read your post about disconnect the battery to get the A/C and heater controls working again ,Ive done that several times, and the unit comes back with other characteristics still not functioning right either no cold air and or levels not coordinating or both {read on please} , I spent about $200.00 dollars on the A/C my 90 K1500 last summer! and when I wanted the heat it started acting up !! check the small survo motors, they seem to do what there suppose to do except when you would try to get the dash vents to stay in one position it would travel right past the dash on to the floor with out stopping, now the only feature I can get is hot air to the windshield ,and the dash control panel arrow indicators blink, both the vertical and the horizontals,so I guess the question I'm asking is the instrument control panel or the servo motors giving me fits??? [[[90 chevy silverado ASM H/AC control panel, the unit I'm looking for has a recycle button were most that I've seen have a MAX air button I need the one that has a the REC button!!!! the way I under stand it the one with the MAX is not enter changeable correct me if I'm wrong]], please advise Steve; is there a way that just run cables to the levels and hot and cold doors and bi pass the electrics
August 26th, 2012, 7:56 PM
#16
I have found out in here somewhere that the "battery disconnect" fix only applies to the negative terminal. Disconnect the negative terminal, count to 10, reconnect it. That resets the heater/AC controls. It worked for me. I screwed mine up by disconnecting the positive terminal and reconnecting it. Six months later, I did the neg terminal reset and everything suddenly started working again.
To stevejohnson48: my "new" 1993 Silverado has "MAX" on the button, but the display says "REC". It does seem to switch from recycle to fresh...at least I can hear a change. I don't know if that answers any questions, but I hope it helps.
To stevejohnson48: my "new" 1993 Silverado has "MAX" on the button, but the display says "REC". It does seem to switch from recycle to fresh...at least I can hear a change. I don't know if that answers any questions, but I hope it helps.
September 11th, 2012, 10:45 PM
#17
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Try pulling your hvac fuse and putting it back in. It happens to me a couple times a year and doing that seems to reset it. It's located in the fuse box under the hood. 10 amp I think.
September 16th, 2012, 4:09 PM
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Driving along driver side suddenly goes from cold to hot and passenger side still cold. I can shut off truck and restart and everything fine for maybe an hour or maybe all day. I reset the HVAC/ECAS and now will drive this week. You can see that I have slider control for temp. What should I do next?
September 20th, 2012, 10:27 AM
#19
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Driving along driver side suddenly goes from cold to hot and passenger side still cold. I can shut off truck and restart and everything fine for maybe an hour or maybe all day. I reset the HVAC/ECAS and now will drive this week. You can see that I have slider control for temp. What should I do next?
ontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> This may be an actuator issue, just a suggestion not a diagnosis. I encourage you to consult with a certified technician for an official diagnosis.Please keep us posted.
Louis
GM Customer Service
September 20th, 2012, 5:04 PM
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them they said they woudl replace the actuator. Other input I have gotten on here and other places suggests that is wrong. So if I paid Chev $400 and they replace the actuator and it don't fix the problem what will they do?
