Aug 10, 2015, 11:20 AM
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05 Silverado Drivers Side Heater Problem
CF Beginner
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Mooreville Mississippi
hvac 2004 Silverado Z71
my 2004 silverado Z has dual climate. sometimes in the summer it will blow hot on drivers side and cold on passenger side with both ***** set at 60 degrees. only way it will correct it self is turn key of then restart the engine.
CF Beginner
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2005 Silverado heating
My dual control heats correctly, EXCEPT that it will only heat the compartment. The heat always comes from the main heat vents...even if I switch it to defrost or foot. I suspect it is the actuator doors, but not sure. Any ideas?
CF Beginner
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
2003 Chevy Silverado HD 4x4 Dual Climate Control
Same problem here. My driver side is blowing hot and passenger side cold. I replaced the actuator on the driver side and my temperature control panel light is not working on the driver side and it's still blowing hot on the driver side. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. 
at any rate, this is what i did. (you'll probably need 7mm & 5.5 mm or the closest standard equivalent, tiny slotted screwdriver, large slotted screw driver for prying, some configuration of extensions, swivels, adapters. i took the black plastic kick plate off from under the dash. i think i had to use a swivel at one point and a 3/8 drive w/ 1/4" adapter because the extension for the 1/4" drive was too long. when you get it removed, you can see the blower motor (bosch) on the far right of the passenger side and its resistor (mine needed replaced because the fan only worked on "5"). You might also have to remove the duct work extension to the passenger side, but it just slides off.
the blend door actuator for the driver side is located just above the corner of the tranny hump on the passenger side. it is mounted to the bottom of the shiny black duct work. you should be able to see the black and red wires on the pigtail that plugs into it. it also has a red clip holding the pigtail in place. <O
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the blend door actuator for the passenger side is mounted on top of the duct work directly above the driver's blend door actuator. access to it requires the removal of the glove compartment panel and possibly other dash panels. <O></O>
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the mode door actuator is located on the drivers side way up in the dash above the corner of tranny hump. is it mounted on it's side. This is probably not your problem if you trouble is similar to mine, but it's good for reference.<O></O>
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At this point, hopefully you are in a quiet place. i put the truck in accessory, turned the fan off and moved the passenger temp control from hot to cold or vice versa. you should be able to hear the actuator motor spinning. listen closely, it's hard to hear. try the driver's side actuator. mine didn't make any noise so i removed the driver's side actuator by unplugging the pigtail, removing the the two mounting screws (gold, 5.5mm), and wiggling it back and forth. the actuator has a hole through the middle of it, connected to a gear inside, that sits on a post. basically, several plastic gears turn inside it, and rotate the hole which has two flat spots to grip the post. the hole moves the post which is connected to the bottom part of the blend door. When you remove the actuator, you will be able to turn the post by hand, and you should hear the blend door moving inside the duct work. If you can’t it is stuck and you need to try and free it up. I then used a small slotted screw driver to pry open the actuator. Everything in mine looked good. The gears weren’t stripped and nothing looked burnt. I pulled one of the plastic gears out (the one contacting the black one that turns the “hole” ). I repositioned the black gear a little bit. You’ll notice is has two contacts that slide along a circuit board. (Circuit boards are like magic to me.) To me, it looked like possibly those contacts slid off the board. With cover off, I used two small wires and the truck battery to test the actuator. Mine was spinning freely. I decided to hook the actuator back up and see what happened. You may have to reposition the black gear to get the hole and the post to line up. If your actuator isn’t working or you don’t feel like messing with it, a new actuator is about $155. Once I determined that actuator seemed to be functioning ok when I moved the temp control, I decided I would leave the kick panel off for now. If it quit working again, as a cheap fix, I would take the actuator off again and turn the blend door by hand to hot for the winter. When you think about it, there’re an awful lot of moving parts, switches, circuit boards and a motor to open and close one stupid little door. <O></O>
<O> </O>
Hopefully I helped you more than confused you. I promise it’ll make much more sense when you’re looking at it. Sorry for the lengthy explanation. I know a lot of my terminology especially with the actuator probably isn’t what these parts are technically called, but I’m not really a car guy, I was just cold. let me know if you have any questions or need a picture of something. good luck.
the blend door actuator for the driver side is located just above the corner of the tranny hump on the passenger side. it is mounted to the bottom of the shiny black duct work. you should be able to see the black and red wires on the pigtail that plugs into it. it also has a red clip holding the pigtail in place. <O
></O><O
></O>the blend door actuator for the passenger side is mounted on top of the duct work directly above the driver's blend door actuator. access to it requires the removal of the glove compartment panel and possibly other dash panels. <O
></O><O
></O>the mode door actuator is located on the drivers side way up in the dash above the corner of tranny hump. is it mounted on it's side. This is probably not your problem if you trouble is similar to mine, but it's good for reference.<O
></O><O
></O>At this point, hopefully you are in a quiet place. i put the truck in accessory, turned the fan off and moved the passenger temp control from hot to cold or vice versa. you should be able to hear the actuator motor spinning. listen closely, it's hard to hear. try the driver's side actuator. mine didn't make any noise so i removed the driver's side actuator by unplugging the pigtail, removing the the two mounting screws (gold, 5.5mm), and wiggling it back and forth. the actuator has a hole through the middle of it, connected to a gear inside, that sits on a post. basically, several plastic gears turn inside it, and rotate the hole which has two flat spots to grip the post. the hole moves the post which is connected to the bottom part of the blend door. When you remove the actuator, you will be able to turn the post by hand, and you should hear the blend door moving inside the duct work. If you can’t it is stuck and you need to try and free it up. I then used a small slotted screw driver to pry open the actuator. Everything in mine looked good. The gears weren’t stripped and nothing looked burnt. I pulled one of the plastic gears out (the one contacting the black one that turns the “hole” ). I repositioned the black gear a little bit. You’ll notice is has two contacts that slide along a circuit board. (Circuit boards are like magic to me.) To me, it looked like possibly those contacts slid off the board. With cover off, I used two small wires and the truck battery to test the actuator. Mine was spinning freely. I decided to hook the actuator back up and see what happened. You may have to reposition the black gear to get the hole and the post to line up. If your actuator isn’t working or you don’t feel like messing with it, a new actuator is about $155. Once I determined that actuator seemed to be functioning ok when I moved the temp control, I decided I would leave the kick panel off for now. If it quit working again, as a cheap fix, I would take the actuator off again and turn the blend door by hand to hot for the winter. When you think about it, there’re an awful lot of moving parts, switches, circuit boards and a motor to open and close one stupid little door. <O
></O><O
> </O>Hopefully I helped you more than confused you. I promise it’ll make much more sense when you’re looking at it. Sorry for the lengthy explanation. I know a lot of my terminology especially with the actuator probably isn’t what these parts are technically called, but I’m not really a car guy, I was just cold. let me know if you have any questions or need a picture of something. good luck.
CF Beginner
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Worked for me!
This poster was a HUGE help! He rocks!: https://chevroletforum.com/forum/199...28/#post158513
(Why do so many posters not read the WHOLE thread?)
Remember that this applies to those trucks with the dual-zone climate feature.
I installed a new actuator and new control module (I'm an overly-thorough kind of cat)
I read this entire thread and came up with this:
- Disconnect negative battery terminal
- Install new control module
- Adjust gear in actuator, if necessary (see above link) ... I moved mine to about 12 o'clock
- Move blend door to match actuator
- Install actuator
- Make sure everything on control module is either OFF or COLD
- Hook up negative terminal
- Start vehicle (you will hear blend doors re-calibrate because power was removed)
- Wait about 20 seconds, then adjust controls to test
You should now be good to go (I sure was)
(Why do so many posters not read the WHOLE thread?)
Remember that this applies to those trucks with the dual-zone climate feature.
I installed a new actuator and new control module (I'm an overly-thorough kind of cat)
I read this entire thread and came up with this:
- Disconnect negative battery terminal
- Install new control module
- Adjust gear in actuator, if necessary (see above link) ... I moved mine to about 12 o'clock
- Move blend door to match actuator
- Install actuator
- Make sure everything on control module is either OFF or COLD
- Hook up negative terminal
- Start vehicle (you will hear blend doors re-calibrate because power was removed)
- Wait about 20 seconds, then adjust controls to test
You should now be good to go (I sure was)
CF Beginner
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
So I was having the issue with the heat and air changing from hot to cold and cold to hot. I disconnected the negative battery terminal for about 15 seconds and the heat and air seem to be working fine now. I did go through all of the modes while listening to the actuators and each position changes as normal. even the feet/defrost seem to be working. Thanks for the info. Saved me from buying 3 new actuators and pulling the dash apart. I have the center console.
CF Beginner
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I've done all those little tricks with fuses and modules, they work for a short time then issue comes back. My fix lasted about 3 weeks then the heat came roaring back on. I want to punch whoever designed this truck. My 05 is also half an 06. Not sure what the hell is going on but my breaks are from an 06.various part are 05 and some are 06. Pain in the *** when you want to do a repair yourself.
CF Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 49
Likes: 4
From: North East TN
Hello; I am reviving this thread because my 2004 Silverado is having th same sort of issues as described. I first noticed a small clicking noise at last a year ago. Was during warm weather when I had both temperature controls all the way down to the clod settings with the AC turned off. Quickly discovered that if I moved the drivers side temperature control up from the bottom a notch the clicking noise went away. I suspected a blend door was a bit out of adjustment. During winter the noise was stopped by moving the passenger temerature control down a notch from the top.
A few days ago i started the truck without changing anyt temperature or other climate settings. Within a few miles the air was blowing hot out of the drivers side. I tried moving the temp control to no avail. Tried to turn on the AC which did not work. I stopped at the store which was my destination about seven miles from home. Did my shopping.
When I restarted the truck the AC light came on and soon started blowing cold. Turned off the AC and was blowing cool air. No heat.
The last few times I drive the truck my trick of moving the driver side temp control up one notch is not consistent. Sometimes a little heat comes out the vents and I can push the control down all the way and it blows cool vent air..
I can have the control all the way down and not clicking on a drive with the vent air staying cool. Another drive and the clicking starts again until the driver's side control is moved up a notch.
The AC blows cold.
About tree years ago I had to have a main engine wiring harness replaced due to rodents chewing the wires.. Had it in a shop. The heat & AC worked normally for well over a year. After reading this thread I have some clues s to what to try. I already undid the negative battery cable a couple of times. I will try the other suggested procedures soon.
I suspect finding the parts will be dificult for a 2004 pickup. I could not get a new wire harness three years ago and had to use junkyard parts. I guess I am asking if anyone has new information. Maybe a workaround of some sort.
I went to the GMgiant parts link in above posts and see many of the heat control parts are discontinued. I sort of get it as my truck is 21 years old. My next question being has any aftermarket outfits begun to make replacement parts for my old truck?
A few days ago i started the truck without changing anyt temperature or other climate settings. Within a few miles the air was blowing hot out of the drivers side. I tried moving the temp control to no avail. Tried to turn on the AC which did not work. I stopped at the store which was my destination about seven miles from home. Did my shopping.
When I restarted the truck the AC light came on and soon started blowing cold. Turned off the AC and was blowing cool air. No heat.
The last few times I drive the truck my trick of moving the driver side temp control up one notch is not consistent. Sometimes a little heat comes out the vents and I can push the control down all the way and it blows cool vent air..
I can have the control all the way down and not clicking on a drive with the vent air staying cool. Another drive and the clicking starts again until the driver's side control is moved up a notch.
The AC blows cold.
About tree years ago I had to have a main engine wiring harness replaced due to rodents chewing the wires.. Had it in a shop. The heat & AC worked normally for well over a year. After reading this thread I have some clues s to what to try. I already undid the negative battery cable a couple of times. I will try the other suggested procedures soon.
I suspect finding the parts will be dificult for a 2004 pickup. I could not get a new wire harness three years ago and had to use junkyard parts. I guess I am asking if anyone has new information. Maybe a workaround of some sort.
I went to the GMgiant parts link in above posts and see many of the heat control parts are discontinued. I sort of get it as my truck is 21 years old. My next question being has any aftermarket outfits begun to make replacement parts for my old truck?
