Add some PB blaster or similar for a day or two before you try again

 

Thanks for the interest in the thread and for your great Idea. I had actually racked my brain trying to think up a way to fill the slop the next size up was too big and I was then wondering if thee are more torx sizes that I am not aware of, google, I know (barely). I am not going to fight with it too much long because I am convinced the easiest wat at this juncture where I don't have a service garage to use or a lift, that removing the driver's seat pulling the carpet back and carefully mapping the location above the bolt head on the floor under the set and then drill a hole that is large enough for me to see and get the bit square on the head. I will use my long impact extension. And a 1.4" drive socket wrench which I have an adapter that allows the two to be joined. Once mapped out and holes drilled I will be able to put the downward pressure required to have a fighting chance will be a lot easier to What I would like to know from you is exactly what valve grinding compound is as I have never used and where I will find it. Thanks again

 

Valve grinding paste is an abrasive mixture used on the face of valves and their seats to facilitate lapping the valve to the seat for a perfectly sealing seat. In your situation it will fill the gap, it's abrasive nature will bite into both your drive bit and the head of the fastener. A tube or can is an across the counter buy at your local auto parts store or Ace Hardware or Building supply dealers.
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTX8...&gclsrc=aw.ds&

 

I realize this is a delayed response but if you’re still working on this, here’s how I remove these when needed. The corrosion builds up between the module case and screw and essentially clamps it in place. Most of the time they just won’t turn despite the best grip you can get.

1) Use a dremel or small cutting tool to cut off the screw heads.

2) Spray some penetrating oil on each screw.

3) Pick a corner and use a small flat blade screwdriver (or equivalent) to pry up on the module. As you gain movement in one corner, move to the opposite or adjacent corner. As the module moves up, press it back down to break loose the corrosion and work penetrating oil into the gaps. Eventually you should be able to grip the module to remove it.

4) Once the module is removed, use vise grips to remove the screws, then take the stud to a hardware store to match it up.

With the module off, check for brake fluid that’s leaking through the valve seals/seats. Fluid can leak out of the valve assembly and short out the modules, so if that’s what happened, replacing the module alone is not recommended.