AC Just refilled last month and now it’s not blowing cold.
November 19th, 2019, 1:02 AM
#1
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
AC Just refilled last month and now it’s not blowing cold.
Hello all, I’m new to these forums and I was looking for some help. I recently had my AC recharged not to long ago (no more than a month) and it seems as though the cold blasting air has stopped shooting out. I do not use the AC to often but I did notice it’s not as cold as the day I recharged it. Can there be some sort of clogging? A fuse? Resistor? Any information will be a help. Thanks
November 19th, 2019, 3:14 AM
#2
CF Monarch
Hello all, I’m new to these forums and I was looking for some help. I recently had my AC recharged not to long ago (no more than a month) and it seems as though the cold blasting air has stopped shooting out. I do not use the AC to often but I did notice it’s not as cold as the day I recharged it. Can there be some sort of clogging? A fuse? Resistor? Any information will be a help. Thanks
1.Turn on A/C dial on dash to see if your compressor is turning. The A/C clutch is located on the front of the A/C compressor, the heart of your system. It must engage in order to activate the compressor.. If it is not engaged (the belt pulley and the inside of the magnetic clutch should be turning at the same speed), if not something is wrong.
2. It no air conditioning line is cold, your A/C compressor is not engaged or is damaged or a sensor in not allowing it to function due to a low pressure of the refrigerant, called R-134A, which means that you have a leak somewhere in the system, most often at the compressor seals, but elsewhere too sometimes. That will require a new/used/rebuilt compressor if the leak emanates from the compressor.
3. Check all of your fuses both in cab and located in the engine bay to make sure you have 12-13 volts available for the entire air-conditioning system to operate.
4. You may need to check the high and low side R-134A pressures in the system. On your vehicle they should be in the 30-40 PSI range on the low-side and 175 to 225 range on the high-side. You cannot mix them up. The high side uses larger inlets then the low-side does, but you'll need an A/C gauge set to test them. If needed the R-134A is added to the low side pressure portion of your A/C system. You may be able to borrow or rent the gauge set, instead of purchase one.
5. When working with pressurized system like an A/C system it is important that you wear protective eye-wear, and since R-134A is quite cold when released, a good pair of gloves to prevent frostbite (R-134A is non-toxic to humans in open air so you wont need a respirator.)
6. If you suspect that you have a leak, and you cannot check the pressures, you can do one of two things: take it to a professional shop, or purchase a cheap bottle of R-134A with leak detector at the auto parts store or online, and add it to the low-side intake port. If the system works, you likely have a slow leak, and the low-pressure cut-off switch will shut the compressor down when it senses low pressure (this saves your A/C compressor from internal damage)
Lastly, it's possible, not probable, that your inline orifice valve is partly clogged. This will require a full discharge of the A/C system, which is only legal at a shop that has an R-134A recycling machine. I would certainly look over all the tubes, wiring and any refrigerant oil (PAG) leaks, before you need to go this far. Any questions, just ask me.
November 19th, 2019, 1:27 PM
#3
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
I am expert on A/C systems so I believe I can help you here:
1.Turn on A/C dial on dash to see if your compressor is turning. The A/C clutch is located on the front of the A/C compressor, the heart of your system. It must engage in order to activate the compressor.. If it is not engaged (the belt pulley and the inside of the magnetic clutch should be turning at the same speed), if not something is wrong.
2. It no air conditioning line is cold, your A/C compressor is not engaged or is damaged or a sensor in not allowing it to function due to a low pressure of the refrigerant, called R-134A, which means that you have a leak somewhere in the system, most often at the compressor seals, but elsewhere too sometimes. That will require a new/used/rebuilt compressor if the leak emanates from the compressor.
3. Check all of your fuses both in cab and located in the engine bay to make sure you have 12-13 volts available for the entire air-conditioning system to operate.
4. You may need to check the high and low side R-134A pressures in the system. On your vehicle they should be in the 30-40 PSI range on the low-side and 175 to 225 range on the high-side. You cannot mix them up. The high side uses larger inlets then the low-side does, but you'll need an A/C gauge set to test them. If needed the R-134A is added to the low side pressure portion of your A/C system. You may be able to borrow or rent the gauge set, instead of purchase one.
5. When working with pressurized system like an A/C system it is important that you wear protective eye-wear, and since R-134A is quite cold when released, a good pair of gloves to prevent frostbite (R-134A is non-toxic to humans in open air so you wont need a respirator.)
6. If you suspect that you have a leak, and you cannot check the pressures, you can do one of two things: take it to a professional shop, or purchase a cheap bottle of R-134A with leak detector at the auto parts store or online, and add it to the low-side intake port. If the system works, you likely have a slow leak, and the low-pressure cut-off switch will shut the compressor down when it senses low pressure (this saves your A/C compressor from internal damage)
Lastly, it's possible, not probable, that your inline orifice valve is partly clogged. This will require a full discharge of the A/C system, which is only legal at a shop that has an R-134A recycling machine. I would certainly look over all the tubes, wiring and any refrigerant oil (PAG) leaks, before you need to go this far. Any questions, just ask me.
1.Turn on A/C dial on dash to see if your compressor is turning. The A/C clutch is located on the front of the A/C compressor, the heart of your system. It must engage in order to activate the compressor.. If it is not engaged (the belt pulley and the inside of the magnetic clutch should be turning at the same speed), if not something is wrong.
2. It no air conditioning line is cold, your A/C compressor is not engaged or is damaged or a sensor in not allowing it to function due to a low pressure of the refrigerant, called R-134A, which means that you have a leak somewhere in the system, most often at the compressor seals, but elsewhere too sometimes. That will require a new/used/rebuilt compressor if the leak emanates from the compressor.
3. Check all of your fuses both in cab and located in the engine bay to make sure you have 12-13 volts available for the entire air-conditioning system to operate.
4. You may need to check the high and low side R-134A pressures in the system. On your vehicle they should be in the 30-40 PSI range on the low-side and 175 to 225 range on the high-side. You cannot mix them up. The high side uses larger inlets then the low-side does, but you'll need an A/C gauge set to test them. If needed the R-134A is added to the low side pressure portion of your A/C system. You may be able to borrow or rent the gauge set, instead of purchase one.
5. When working with pressurized system like an A/C system it is important that you wear protective eye-wear, and since R-134A is quite cold when released, a good pair of gloves to prevent frostbite (R-134A is non-toxic to humans in open air so you wont need a respirator.)
6. If you suspect that you have a leak, and you cannot check the pressures, you can do one of two things: take it to a professional shop, or purchase a cheap bottle of R-134A with leak detector at the auto parts store or online, and add it to the low-side intake port. If the system works, you likely have a slow leak, and the low-pressure cut-off switch will shut the compressor down when it senses low pressure (this saves your A/C compressor from internal damage)
Lastly, it's possible, not probable, that your inline orifice valve is partly clogged. This will require a full discharge of the A/C system, which is only legal at a shop that has an R-134A recycling machine. I would certainly look over all the tubes, wiring and any refrigerant oil (PAG) leaks, before you need to go this far. Any questions, just ask me.
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