If you have iridium plugs those aren't gaped. If you have an orange spark, not going to work. I'd suggest based on the "boom" do a compression test, also with your post recheck the firing order on the cap, as a start.

 

The firing order on cap is set right. I have triple checked it and labeled the wires per diagram. (The one weird thing is where the number 3 cylinder is, second one back on the driver's side, there is a 6 where the plug goes. It is the only plug hole that has a number.)
I think even though the top dead center line was paired up underneath, that it was in the wrong stroke. The distributor may be in 180 off firing with valves open. Can the lines be matched underneath and it not be top dead center?

 

UPDATE:

I used the wrong mark to set top dead center underneath. There was a slot to set the line to that I then would have to check from above. So I set it and pulled the distributor and it was not lined up with its marks. It was off by 180 degrees. I realigned the marks on the distributor and reinstalled and it fired right up. I got a crankshat sensor error, but I changed it also so I think it has to do the relearn cycle. I will have to figure that out next. Firing it off 180 degrees doesn't seem to have done any immediate damage.

As for the spark, it was weak but the new distributor and coil connector fixed that. It was only an intensity of orange because the $15 inline spark testor only shows orange. It isn't a gap strength testing type.

Thanks for all of the replies. I think I need a quality reader to set the timing or cam retard and cam shaft sensor. Any cheaper models out there?