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When i crawled under the truck again to change oil my worn out support
Looks like this
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,2007,silverado+1500+classic,4.8l+v8,1433 487,drivetrain,drive+shaft+center+support+/+bearing,12743
I need to know if the 1 I bought can replace the worn out unit? The only thing I would need is to find bolts that match the existing nuts diameter and threadpitch, and be compatible with the ferrite metal of the frame.
First off, your second link to rockauto comes back for a 1967 Nissan 411 for some strange reason (I tired it in 3 different browsers - could be a rockauto.com issue)
When I look your vehicle up in the ACDelco Online Catalog (https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php?), I see only 1 choice for the center support bearing & housing. The 23165406 Here is the link to the 23165406 unit:
What I would do it to remove the old center support bearing and either match it up to one from rockauto.com (like an ACDelco/GM Genuine, SKF, Timken, or National) and order it, or take it to a local auto parts store and match it up to one they have (of the same manufacturers).
I would not try to cobble in the unit that does not fit properly.
Here is the pn i bought (the caging is reason I got it initially)
Part# HB88107A - ACDelco
Here are the other pn i see on the ACD catalog (these look cheaply made due to not having full caging)
Part# 23165406
Part# 88934865
Originally Posted by chem_man
First off, your second link to rockauto comes back for a 1967 Nissan 411 for some strange reason (I tired it in 3 different browsers - could be a rockauto.com issue)
When I look your vehicle up in the ACDelco Online Catalog (https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php?), I see only 1 choice for the center support bearing & housing. The 23165406 Here is the link to the 23165406 unit:
What I would do it to remove the old center support bearing and either match it up to one from rockauto.com (like an ACDelco/GM Genuine, SKF, Timken, or National) and order it, or take it to a local auto parts store and match it up to one they have (of the same manufacturers).
I would not try to cobble in the unit that does not fit properly.
Good Luck!
What the 1 installed on my truck looks like but failed The 1 I bought that is fully Caged, Found on ACD Parts Catalog Cheap looking 1 on ACD Parts Catalog (Not fully Caged) The other Cheap Looking 1 also on the ACD Catalog (Not Fully Caged)
Last edited by eidairman1; Jul 23, 2023 at 9:18 PM.
Well, the first thing I will say is that you are best served by purchasing a center support bearing and housing from the brand names I previously listed. Anchor is not one of them for a darn good reason. Anchor does not have the best reputation for long lasting products. Their motor mounts suck big time!
Now I am all in favor of using the best quality parts with the best warranty for the best price I can get for a repair, and I am in favor of using quality aftermarket parts especially when they meet or exceed OEM specifications and cost about the same as OEM. But, Anchor does not fall into that category. Timken, SKF, BCA, Dana and National do, however,
Just because the ACDelco/GM Genuine looks flimsy in a picture compared to the picture of the Anchor brand one does not mean the Anchor is better. There is a reason why there is a $50 price difference between the OEM unit and this particular aftermarket one in this instance. If the housing the ACDelco/GM Genuine unit does not meet your preference, then choose one from Dana, SKF, Timken, National, or BCA, Actually, I would be temped to go with one from Dana since they are the driveline experts. In addition to mounting holes needing to match up with the one you removed, you also need to match up the inner and outer bearing diameters as well.
Another thing you need to ask yourself is how many times do you want to do this job?
Understand this, I have no intent on buying an anchor branded carrier, the 1 that is installed on the truck looks like it, as an example. I just needed to know if the AC Delco 1 I bought which is fully caged will work or not.
Originally Posted by chem_man
Well, the first thing I will say is that you are best served by purchasing a center support bearing and housing from the brand names I previously listed. Anchor is not one of them for a darn good reason. Anchor does not have the best reputation for long lasting products. Their motor mounts suck big time!
Now I am all in favor of using the best quality parts with the best warranty for the best price I can get for a repair, and I am in favor of using quality aftermarket parts especially when they meet or exceed OEM specifications and cost about the same as OEM. But, Anchor does not fall into that category. Timken, SKF, BCA, Dana and National do, however,
Just because the ACDelco/GM Genuine looks flimsy in a picture compared to the picture of the Anchor brand one does not mean the Anchor is better. There is a reason why there is a $50 price difference between the OEM unit and this particular aftermarket one in this instance. If the housing the ACDelco/GM Genuine unit does not meet your preference, then choose one from Dana, SKF, Timken, National, or BCA, Actually, I would be temped to go with one from Dana since they are the driveline experts. In addition to mounting holes needing to match up with the one you removed, you also need to match up the inner and outer bearing diameters as well.
Another thing you need to ask yourself is how many times do you want to do this job?
Well, if the inner and outer diameters of the bearing in the holder match up and the bolt center to bolt center distance is 6.62 inches, then it just might work.
Well, if the inner and outer diameters of the bearing in the holder match up and the bolt center to bolt center distance is 6.62 inches, then it just might work.
Well The 1 I bought Should Work, just need to take 1 nut off my existing carrier and find good cres grade 5-8 bolts and washers.
#what ??? unsure why you "bought a part" shelfed it and are asking if you now should use it
1) the bolt is part of the carrier which is replaceable but at high cost
2) the standard is this: the nut is a lower grade metal so that if you over-tighten it that it doesn't damage the bolt
2b) however that's for engine bolts that cannot be replaced hardly. the nut that comes with the center bearing might be the same grade as the bolt. china dont' care and it's not an engine bolt.
2c) if the old one has good undamaged threads re-use it, put that expensive blue thread stuff on
2d) don't go to homedepot and get any cheap nut you find. the old one is safer than that. but you can go to homedepot in the "special nut bolt cabinet", get one with the right thread/pitch/depth/tpi that says "high hardness" and use it: just don't over-tighen it or you could damage the bolt (thus need a new carrier bearing)
3) bolts have DIFFERENT SHAPE. ie, slightly beveled on one side. the shapes specialize in different holding applications. GET THE SAME SHAPE.
your application is: "goes on once and does not self-loosen". i can't remember if there's a split washer on your model. the nut will be of the same shape and style and specifically the of the same thread design also (the threads also effect the type of application - whether they screw on and off aside)
really - because it's a suspension part (if it loosens and falls off causes an auto accident) i have to say, use only the exact type of nut and use the expensive blue stuff.
problem with OEM; GM is ordering sh(# outsourcing to china and doesn't care anymore. so, you don't know. problem: gm parts dept. can give you wrong part ... and if they do you can't blame them they'll say the mechanic is responsible
(your almost better using old nuts, if the nut is good - for a carrier bearing, with blue stuff than risking "parts people" sending you a bogus one cause they're lazy and feeling secure). this is if you can back off the nuts without damaging. (unlike suspension parts these nuts don't take a continual road hammering. the only damage to threads is in tightening and loosening - and you know it's only been done once so far)
Drive Shaft Carrier/ Center Support Question
