well i have to disagree with down welding with a stick welder. when i did my welding class that is how i did my welds and got a+ for my class. i have welded for over 40 years and yes i have not done much stick welding in maybe 20 of those years but mig and stick are both down in verticle.you do frown down always smile up always. but the preferred path for verticle is down if you can do it.

also i may have found something that might work but before i get them i'm going to go next door to check out the neighbors 1500 a 99 they should be the same and see what his looks like. i found ford front mounts the bolt on and if i have enough flat frame and the new mount has a wide enough mouth for the spring then i may get them and see if i can make them work. then i will bolt and weld that into place and then i have 2 means of support.

thanks

 

b4 i was a autotech i did a 1 year welder fitter program got my high pressure pipe ticket then apprenticed for one year at a fabrication shop. stick down welds are a no no for thick metal when you need good penetration. They have a technique for upwelding with a stick just for that purpose.

 

thanks but car frames are not thick. maybe 1/4" and i have never had issues with down welds with stick. my welding instructor had all the class measure their welds against my welds in class and he could not ever take my welds apart. so as long as i fuse the toes good then i will have plenty of holding. also i'm going to get the replacement frame section larger and actually put it on top of the existing frame and not only weld it but bolt it as well that way i'm sure to have a solid mount. thanks for the advice

 

as long as you are ok with slag filled welds. would never cut it for hp pipe tests. its your truck do want you want.

 

i know what HP pipe welds are i have done them as well. like i say i know how to weld and what weld paths to take. you do it your way and i will do it my way. i have welded for over 40 years now and have never had a weld fail ever. and i know about slag with stick welding. that is one reason mig welding became the popular welding technique. but hey thanks for the ideas and the help. one reason i prefer stick is because of the rust that is impossible to get it all removed without grinding into the frame and then lowering the frame integrity. also the part from the junkyard as that is the only place i can find the parts now. that will be full of rust and if I have to grind into that part too far on both sides again thinner material. with a stick that eliminates the rust issues. thanks

 

the only people who can say they been welding for 40 years are professional welders. a guy with a 140amp flux core machine in his garage does not qualify.

 

you missed out the part where i said i was a machine repairman for 45 years. and i have welded more things in that 40 years than you will ever know. so for now lets just say you do it your way and i will do it my way. i have had plenty of professional welders look at my work and tell me they could not have done it any better. so let's just drop it ok. i told you that not only will i weld the parts in place but i will also bolt them into place. now if bolting replacement parts is good enough for the dealers and the body shops it is plenty good enough for me. so what part of all this are you not understanding?

 

your welding pics speak for themself.

 

thanks for that, now let's go into another topic already your concern is noted. i will do up welds if i get it again to please you. i do know how to up weld also, again thanks much.

 

There’s a part you can order from rust busters that is what you need. Still needs to weld into place but dimensionally correct. Also, they have a frame that patch that goes to this exact area in case you need the reinforcement. Mount is like $90 and patch is like $250. There is other solutions, but would require fabbing on top of the dismantling already needed.

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