Has anyone found a fix for this problem? It seems like a lot of people are having the same issue (IC quits working when its cold).

 

I'm not electronically inclined and decided to simply pay the $$$ and have my local shop handle it. They pulled the IC and had to send it to a New York Certified builder. There was extra paperwork to certify that the replacement IC had the exact same mileage as the old unit.

I call this truck my $600 truck. Every repair, and there have been lots, has cost me $600. I'm tired of the constant repair bills and I'm currently shopping for a different truck. I like how the truck rides and how comfortable it is. However I also pull a 4,000 lb travel trailer and found the truck to be weak and not powerful enough to pull at interstate speeds. The Ford's are looking very tempting.

 

I had a guy that repairs clusters take a look at mine for about 15 minutes, but couldn't figure out why it wasn't coming on. My guess he was just looking for loose connections or solders. I then took it to a shop that did nothing but clusters. After describing everything to the guy there, he said that more than likely the circuit board had a fault. With the expansion and contraction of the board due to fluctuating temperatures the tiny circuits connected and disconnected. He tried to fix one in the past but that it's virtually impossible. I ended up buying a remanufactured one for about $200... I believe a new one was about $350. Hope this helps.

P.S. I didn't have this problem until 215K, and it's still a Champ!

 

I need some help diagnosing this weird issue that I am having with my 2009 Chevy Silverado LTZ. It had been raining a lot. Went to crank the truck. The lights came on, doorbell made noise, tried to turn it over and nothing. It acted like a dead battery. Jumped the truck off and it cranked right up. I let it run for about 20 minutes. The next day I went to crank it and NOTHING except all of the error messages on the dash (service engine, stabilitrak, everything that it can say). The battery was within normal range of 12-14. It still would not crank. After multiple tries during the day it finally cranked up all the gauges went to zero, but then died again. The next day (after some warm weather) the truck cranked right up like there had never been an issue. I have read and watched everything about bad ground wires, but when we disconnected the ground wires completely and the truck still cranked. I had a similar issue while driving once before where all the gauges went to zero (it had been raining). I parked it and went to work. That evening it cranked up with no issues. Any ideas? I don't want to be driving somewhere and get stuck over some weird issue.

 

Check the Airbag Control Module that is under the driver seat, under the carpet. If it is corroded it is the problem. It is shorted out on the inside and sending corrupted files to the other computer modules. https://www.silveradosierra.com/thre...gauges.719681/