EinST

I was hoping it was just a bad switch. Measure the voltage on two orange wires against a known good ground (a bolt or screw threaded into the chassis metal). If you're not sure of the ground, measure the voltage on the Cigarette Lighter fuse in the I/P fuse block against the same ground. If the orange wires show battery voltage, the problem is downstream, i.e., on the white wire and light blue wire. Otherwise, the problem is the orange wires.

That said, I'm not sure how far you want to take this. You're going to have to check the wiring through the door, between the door and hinge pillar, behind the driver side kick panel, and under the dash.

courtroom74

Hi,

I was hoping too it would be the switch .
OK, that sounds reasonable. I'll take it as far as I can reach (literally) as I can see it would be difficult to go through the various section. My plan is to do what you suggested and first determine which wire is bad and then find the closest point(s) I can check.

I don't eally need it to work per say since the remote and passenger side switch is functional. I find it more of 'educational' myself. I replaced the power window motors (both sides) last year finally after out of order for 7+ years by reading and learning from web (partly because repair shop wanted $300/each side). I replaced the door handles last week (that was really painful as my hands were just not small enough) but got it done.

Aside I still have a few things needs to be fix. Fan switch work except for highest mode, and some of the lights on the radio panel is not working. So I see this is a great learning experience ... and I really appreciate your inputs and suggestions.

astroturf

Hey Court,
When you want to tackle the... No High Speed from the blower, shoot me a PM. I can save you some grief.
Jim

EinST

There is a Door Lock Relay module that actually powers the door lock actuators. I think it's located under the passenger side dash on yours. If you temporarily pulled the Power Door Lock Relay circuit breaker from the I/P fuse block (eliminates ka-chunk noises) and then worked the passenger side switch, you should be able to locate it by faint clicking noises. Both door lock switches are then electrically tied together to energize this relay (think of it as two relays, one each for locking and unlocking). I didn't mention this since the fault obviously lies upstream of the relay.

As for the inoperative blower, check the A/C fuse in the underhood fuse block. And, it sounds like Jim's willing to offer his insight. Hope it works out for you.

courtroom74

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I will check out the relay and see how it's working... another new advanture :-)

Jim, thank you for your offer and I'll take you up on it once I come to a logical end to the current task.

I'll update on my progress as soon as possible as I'm usually don't get much chance to work on these side projects until weekends.

astroturf

Fellers,

I have no great secrets...

The PM will remind me to post up what I have found myself.

Take Care, Jim

StanVan

I'll tell you about the fan thing without a PM. It's the plug at the resistor. It's melted and corroded and is not making contact. It sits behind the windshield washer reservoir. I forget whether I used GMParts Direct, or Rock Auto, but you can get a replacement plug. The bad news is that it'll happen again. Mine didn't last a year.

astroturf

Good find Stan...
But, Why didn't it last longer than a year?
Also, Do have a part no. and price for that connector?
Thanks, Jim

courtroom74

Ok Stan, that sounds about right for me as well. I didn't replace it myself but had the repair shop look into and fixed it while working on something else.
Forgot how much they charge for that line item. I know it had to be under $100 otherwise, it's another one of those delay fix for me. I think it lasted maybe a little over 1 year. I briefly open the hood today and didn't see anything other than the washer reservoir. I guess this is another one of those job that required removal of other items before getting to the source of problem? man ... if it is, will keep me busy for many weekends since I'm novice at repair. Not much room to work on that side... I'm thankful the van it's not my primary car.

courtroom74

{Measure the voltage on two orange wires against a known good ground (a bolt or screw threaded into the chassis metal).}


Hi EinST,

The sun finally come out and dry enough for me to want to check on the orange wires. Place the digital meter aginst each orange wire and to ground (directly with door/chasis). When pressed on switch, on a 20v scale, I get .3/.4 each of the wire. So, I think the problem is in the white/blue wire. Didn't get a chance to check out the relays yet ...