Thanks for the info GHOSTOWLGRID,Kevin

I understand its hard to help with a issue over the internet. Especially when at this point I'm not even sure what the mecanic did.

I never noticed the one the one hose before because it was in the back I never looked at it. The mecanic told me the pcv had small cracks but not bad enough to cause issues.
Also I looked the coils he changed and the part the plug wires plug onto are all rusty on one set. So I'm guessing he didn't use new ones.

I'll fix the hoses and then let another mechanic look at it if hoses don't fix it.

Thanks guys and Happy New Year.

 

If the pcv boot or hose has a crack in it, take electrical tape, and wrap it. The boot from the hose to my pcv valve is cracked, and was sucking air. I taped it for now. The crankcase air supply line is plastic. I had to replace it as it was broken in two. That little jewel from the dealer was $17, it has no effect on the engine as far as missing ect.

 

After you fix the vacuum leaks, disconnect the battery for at least an hour.

The ECM will remember that there was a vacuum leak and keep trying to run as if the leak existed, thus causing a running problem.


Also, check all the hoses and the solenoid and other thinggy behind the coil packs on the engine.

Between the engine and firewall.

Sometimes those hoses can come off of those, a zip tie works with holding those hoses on.


Only issue is its hard to see back there, removing the coil pack assembly can help, but just make sure the spark wires go back in the right pattern (52-36-14) if you remove that to be able to see...

Happy new year, I hope that its fixed with a simple fix.

 

7/7 update... Well I gave up on this car after 3 mechanics couldn't fix it. It's been sitting since. I had someone how would buy it for $600 and fix it.

Well I ended having a bad alternator that drained my new battery. Not sure if that was a new problem but I couldn't even jump the car. The volt light would kick on sometimes when it would die before but then it would start again after sitting.

The other thing I found yesterday was I think was the crank sensor, yellow and purple wires. ran from ignition module to below engine. I couldn't see the other end, on drivers side. The wire were caught in exhaust manifold and the copper wires were touching the metal. I pulled out and taped up. Not sure if that was causing my issue or not.

 

A messed up crank signal has been known sometimes to cause the ignition to act funky on some cars.
That signal tells the ICM what spark to fire when.

Not sure about how the bad alternator fits into the mix, but low voltage can be attributed to many sorts of issues in cars many times around.
The electronic components are designed to work within the range of around 12-16 volts, less than that, and thinks get glitchey, more and they burn up, thats usually how it happens.

But good luck, I hope the best for this.