1991 Chevy Caprice 4 door sedan - Right frony door glass replacement
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1991 Chevy Caprice 4 door sedan - Right frony door glass replacement
Vandals broke this glass out . Picked up a new replacement glass .
I was expecting the glass to be held by 2 fasteners through 2 holes in the bottom of the glass . Which is what I saw in the bottom of the new glass . When they took it out of the cardboard to show me the glass was in good condition .
Got the door apart . The bottom of the old glass was " glued " to an aluminum strip , with black " rubber adhesive " . Not held in place with 2 fasteners .
The aluminum strip was pop riveted to another aluminum strip . I drilled out the pop rivets . Those I can replace , not worried about that part .
So , I am confused . Did they sell me the wrong glass . Or am I missing something ?
Thanks , :-)
God bless
Wyr
I was expecting the glass to be held by 2 fasteners through 2 holes in the bottom of the glass . Which is what I saw in the bottom of the new glass . When they took it out of the cardboard to show me the glass was in good condition .
Got the door apart . The bottom of the old glass was " glued " to an aluminum strip , with black " rubber adhesive " . Not held in place with 2 fasteners .
The aluminum strip was pop riveted to another aluminum strip . I drilled out the pop rivets . Those I can replace , not worried about that part .
So , I am confused . Did they sell me the wrong glass . Or am I missing something ?
Thanks , :-)
God bless
Wyr
Last edited by WyrTwister; January 29th, 2017 at 9:13 AM.
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This appears to be the correct glass . The 2 holes in the bottom of the glass line up with 2 holes in the aluminum piece the old glass was glued into . I bought 2 1/4" x 20 tpi plastic / nylon screws & hex nuts . Going to use those , hopefully , to do an initial trial fit . Before I apply adhesive .
With a long / narrow screw driver & hammer I got the old broken glass out of the grove in the aluminum piece . Using a new , sharp blade in my utility knife ( and the screwdriver ) , removed the old rubber adhesive .
Bought a tube of 3M window weld # 06909 adhesive from O'Reilly auto parts . Hope this is the correct adhesive ? I have read & been told it is extremely messy & to try not to get it on to you your clothes . Or any finish surfaces .
Ordered some new plastic glide clips , one was broke & attempt to super glue it back together , failed . These slid back and forth in the other aluminum strip , that was pop riveted to the strip holding the glass .
The " scissor jack " mechanism of the regulator has a ball end stud , on each of the 2 " arms " . The ball ends should should snap into a hole in the center of each of the 2 glide clips .
Waiting for the weather to warm up a little more before I give it a go & try to put it all together .
God bless
Wyr
With a long / narrow screw driver & hammer I got the old broken glass out of the grove in the aluminum piece . Using a new , sharp blade in my utility knife ( and the screwdriver ) , removed the old rubber adhesive .
Bought a tube of 3M window weld # 06909 adhesive from O'Reilly auto parts . Hope this is the correct adhesive ? I have read & been told it is extremely messy & to try not to get it on to you your clothes . Or any finish surfaces .
Ordered some new plastic glide clips , one was broke & attempt to super glue it back together , failed . These slid back and forth in the other aluminum strip , that was pop riveted to the strip holding the glass .
The " scissor jack " mechanism of the regulator has a ball end stud , on each of the 2 " arms " . The ball ends should should snap into a hole in the center of each of the 2 glide clips .
Waiting for the weather to warm up a little more before I give it a go & try to put it all together .
God bless
Wyr
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That or black RTV is what I'd use.
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That stuff is black . Not that the color matters ?
Started to use E6000 , but decided E6000 might not be flexible enough ?
Suppose to be warmer today .
My left hip has been bothering me . Seems to be doing better , with medication . Getting old is not for cowards . But it seems to beat the alternative .
God bless
Wyr
Started to use E6000 , but decided E6000 might not be flexible enough ?
Suppose to be warmer today .
My left hip has been bothering me . Seems to be doing better , with medication . Getting old is not for cowards . But it seems to beat the alternative .
God bless
Wyr
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Not too professional looking . But I hope it is good enough .
Used 3M Window weld # 06909 urethane adhesive .
Two plastic / nylon screws & hex nuts locate the holes in the glass with the 2 holes in the aluminum strip .
Groove in the strip was about .2" wider than the thickness of the glass . Tried to use Popsicle sticks & wooden kitchen matches for shims , one on either side , to the left & to the right of the screws . No go . Finally settled up on 4 pennies . 2 at each end .
Will probably let it set until after lunch tomorrow .
God bless
Wyr
Used 3M Window weld # 06909 urethane adhesive .
Two plastic / nylon screws & hex nuts locate the holes in the glass with the 2 holes in the aluminum strip .
Groove in the strip was about .2" wider than the thickness of the glass . Tried to use Popsicle sticks & wooden kitchen matches for shims , one on either side , to the left & to the right of the screws . No go . Finally settled up on 4 pennies . 2 at each end .
Will probably let it set until after lunch tomorrow .
God bless
Wyr
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1991 Chevy Caprice RF door glass
With the help of my Wife and several prayers , the glass is in the door . Far as I can tell , still in one piece .
Praise the Lord ! :-)
The aluminum strip the glass is glued to & the strip that the regulator operates ( up & down ) were originally pop riveted together . Could not get a pop rivet tool in position , to operate it .
Considered screws & hex nuts , but could not find my " tray " with assorted sixes & lengths . Ended up using Teak ( hex head self tapping screws ) . My cousin had suggested using LockTite , if I used screws & hex nuts . Excellent suggestion .
I found that a large enough diameter Teak screw , the hex head of the screw wedged inside the " track " , that the plastic glide clip slides in . Tight enough that I do not think it will ever vibrate loose / out . Even w/o LockTite .
Still need to finish assembling the door .
Also attached are photos of front and back side of the arm rest . Made some repairs with E6000 adhesive . Need to cut a piece of plastic , for the broken area of the back side & glue it in . To finish the repair . Pick up some screws and appearance / trim washers . Hopefully at O'Reilly Auto Parts . Then do the same for the driver side arm rest .
God bless
Wyr
With the help of my Wife and several prayers , the glass is in the door . Far as I can tell , still in one piece .
Praise the Lord ! :-)
The aluminum strip the glass is glued to & the strip that the regulator operates ( up & down ) were originally pop riveted together . Could not get a pop rivet tool in position , to operate it .
Considered screws & hex nuts , but could not find my " tray " with assorted sixes & lengths . Ended up using Teak ( hex head self tapping screws ) . My cousin had suggested using LockTite , if I used screws & hex nuts . Excellent suggestion .
I found that a large enough diameter Teak screw , the hex head of the screw wedged inside the " track " , that the plastic glide clip slides in . Tight enough that I do not think it will ever vibrate loose / out . Even w/o LockTite .
Still need to finish assembling the door .
Also attached are photos of front and back side of the arm rest . Made some repairs with E6000 adhesive . Need to cut a piece of plastic , for the broken area of the back side & glue it in . To finish the repair . Pick up some screws and appearance / trim washers . Hopefully at O'Reilly Auto Parts . Then do the same for the driver side arm rest .
God bless
Wyr