2012 Captiva electrical issues
August 26th, 2017, 8:46 PM
#151
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I got my Captiva back yesterday.
They ran diagnostics and got several codes, all pointing at excessive voltage drops. So they checked the battery cables and found the positive cable defective. Also, I bought the car used last November and the dealership I got it at had replaced the battery. GM garage said battery was well below specifications (like cold cranks amps, etc).
My extended warranty covered cable replacement. Since positive and negative are joined in a harness, they had to replace both. It was the negative cable that was hard to get too and they needed to remove either starter or alternator and a portion of the exhaust. Battery was not covered, it cost me $175 to replace.
I also told them my aux power port under the cup holder didn't work - turned out to be one of two fuses (I only checked one).
So in all, I paid $370 and warranty covered $275 (I have $100 deductible on warranty). In all it was a $600+ job.
So those voltage drops were to blame for communications problems with electronics and computer. I also noticed hesitations when driving and accelerating.
Since these rigs don't have a throttle cable - electronic communications from gas peddle, it affected performance. Electronic throttle control - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
So far it is running better and have had no more problems.
My Chevy has 45K miles on it already which is why I have the 3rd party extended warranty but they had no problem paying parts and labor on cables.
They ran diagnostics and got several codes, all pointing at excessive voltage drops. So they checked the battery cables and found the positive cable defective. Also, I bought the car used last November and the dealership I got it at had replaced the battery. GM garage said battery was well below specifications (like cold cranks amps, etc).
My extended warranty covered cable replacement. Since positive and negative are joined in a harness, they had to replace both. It was the negative cable that was hard to get too and they needed to remove either starter or alternator and a portion of the exhaust. Battery was not covered, it cost me $175 to replace.
I also told them my aux power port under the cup holder didn't work - turned out to be one of two fuses (I only checked one).
So in all, I paid $370 and warranty covered $275 (I have $100 deductible on warranty). In all it was a $600+ job.
So those voltage drops were to blame for communications problems with electronics and computer. I also noticed hesitations when driving and accelerating.
Since these rigs don't have a throttle cable - electronic communications from gas peddle, it affected performance. Electronic throttle control - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia)
So far it is running better and have had no more problems.
My Chevy has 45K miles on it already which is why I have the 3rd party extended warranty but they had no problem paying parts and labor on cables.
September 11th, 2017, 8:21 PM
#152
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So.....I have a 2013 Captiva Sport, I purchased it used from a Chevy dealership almost 2 years ago. Until today I haven't had any problems. I was driving on the interstate and had the ipod playing, cruise control on. When I used my turn signal, the radio/ipod shut off. When I used my turn signal again, the cruise control and the ipod/radio turned off. Kinda scary when you aren't expecting the deceleration when you are passing traffic and cars behind you are on your a**. It happened again, intermittently all the way home. The last time it happened, I was not using cruise control and the ipod/radio shut down again. When all of this started I was 45 minutes from home and got worried about other things happening. Can't get into the dealership for a couple of days, they couldn't fit me in for tomorrow and I work the next day. In the meantime I will have to drive 30 minutes to and from work. Hope nothing else happens. I have around 57,000 miles on it. I didn't have any display of problems on the dash. When I called to make an appointment, the guy told me it may be a battery issue. I am worried it may be electrical???? Any advice appreciated.
September 12th, 2017, 1:07 AM
#153
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Today is the day that I finally get out of Chevy Captiva prison. I am headed to the Toyota dealer to buy a new vehicle. I will never, ever , ever buy, or let my children buy a Chevy product for the rest of our lives. This is a great day, Hey Chevy GFYS.
Low voltage
Dash lights goes crazy with various and multiple warnings
Car systematically shuts off electrical components, leaves me driving with no lights at night until it stalls.
Regularly stalls at stop signs.
Radio is the first thing to shut off, then you know trouble is coming.
Batteries, alternators, cables, electronic boards, nothing helps for very long.
Wipers fail
Servo motors for dampers fail, cant switch from heating to cooling.
Problems are problems, when you have a problem you fix it, but not to Chevy, Chevy knows there is a problem with this vehicle and does absolutely nothing about it.
Thanks for nothing.
Low voltage
Dash lights goes crazy with various and multiple warnings
Car systematically shuts off electrical components, leaves me driving with no lights at night until it stalls.
Regularly stalls at stop signs.
Radio is the first thing to shut off, then you know trouble is coming.
Batteries, alternators, cables, electronic boards, nothing helps for very long.
Wipers fail
Servo motors for dampers fail, cant switch from heating to cooling.
Problems are problems, when you have a problem you fix it, but not to Chevy, Chevy knows there is a problem with this vehicle and does absolutely nothing about it.
Thanks for nothing.
I realize that your Captiva is slightly older but I have a 2014 Captiva with all the same symptoms. I have noticed that wiggling my negative battery cable provides some relief for the problem but then it just re-appears. In a search to finally fix my Captiva I found the following...13186: Service Update For Inventory And Customer Vehicles – Incorrect Battery Current Sensor On Negative Battery Cable Assembly which can be found here... https://gm.oemdtc.com/7604/13186-ser...-chevrolet-gmc
Long story short, their is a problem with the negative battery cable causing these types of issues. Buy a new battery cable and put these issues to rest.
Hopefully you can find some use in this reply. Good Luck.
Long story short, their is a problem with the negative battery cable causing these types of issues. Buy a new battery cable and put these issues to rest.
Hopefully you can find some use in this reply. Good Luck.
I am experiencing the same issue with my 2012 chevy captiva , I brought it into the shop after they were unable to find any problems they had me pick up my vehicle then ofcourse it happened twice while driving, I returned it a few hours later they replaced the BCM due to a code B1000 . Less than 2 days after this being done the same issues have occurred, while using the turn signal the radio son's, A/C isn't as powerful and the service traction control , service parking brake light illuminates, vehicle slows down! . Made it home after these ghost problems occurred and a hour later my car was dead no power only thing different my key didn't get stuck in the ignition like other times. Waited a minute tried auto start and it started.
Why is this not a recall!
Why is this not a recall!
So.....I have a 2013 Captiva Sport, I purchased it used from a Chevy dealership almost 2 years ago. Until today I haven't had any problems. I was driving on the interstate and had the ipod playing, cruise control on. When I used my turn signal, the radio/ipod shut off. When I used my turn signal again, the cruise control and the ipod/radio turned off. Kinda scary when you aren't expecting the deceleration when you are passing traffic and cars behind you are on your a**. It happened again, intermittently all the way home. The last time it happened, I was not using cruise control and the ipod/radio shut down again. When all of this started I was 45 minutes from home and got worried about other things happening. Can't get into the dealership for a couple of days, they couldn't fit me in for tomorrow and I work the next day. In the meantime I will have to drive 30 minutes to and from work. Hope nothing else happens. I have around 57,000 miles on it. I didn't have any display of problems on the dash. When I called to make an appointment, the guy told me it may be a battery issue. I am worried it may be electrical???? Any advice appreciated.
September 15th, 2017, 6:14 AM
#154
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Recall issued?
There are too many comments to go through and figured it out. But has anyone heard/ got notice of a recall? I recently just bought my 2012 chevy captiva sport with the same issues. I cant even listen to the radio or use my aux cord because it switches between radio, aux, connecting, powering off, and a device unsupported screen. This is obviously something that was mishandled at the factor other wise there wouldnt be so many of us with the same issue. And we all most certainly shouldnt have to pay for a mistake made by the company.
September 29th, 2017, 1:00 PM
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Hi - My car won't start, seems to not have 'all' of the issues that most people are having but believe your post about the battery cables needing replacement. Do you have any thoughts about this 'sensor' that is linked into the cables being the actual problem? And if so, do you know what that sensor is for? Thanks
September 29th, 2017, 2:17 PM
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I too, have the same damn issues with my 2012 Captiva,
my radio, off and on...my car not started 3 times...
my radio resets time on many different occasions..
radio constant search for USB..lol, nothing plugged in or even around...what the Hell?
my radio, off and on...my car not started 3 times...
my radio resets time on many different occasions..
radio constant search for USB..lol, nothing plugged in or even around...what the Hell?
October 13th, 2017, 5:32 PM
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Just a note to state I have a 2014 LTZ model with 52K. First the negative battery cable was replaced, then the BCM. Neither fixed the problem. Symptoms: Intermittment warning lights come on; clock loses time, key stuck in ignition, auto unlock does not work. I use my auto seat button and push it "back" and the power comes back on. Its the only way I can fix this. No problems yet with performance. Going back to dealer with many of these posts as examples of possible fixes. For me, it will be free as I've already paid for two fixes that have not worked.
November 3rd, 2017, 1:17 PM
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Gear suddenly disengage while engine is running
Hey good day. I want to ask some problems regarding my chev captiva. The car was running very smoothly and then suddenly the gear was disengage and we stop on the side stop the engine and start again and when we start again the gear doesnt want o engage and in the dashboard showing to many alarms but if we try to put fuel on the engine it sound very good but the gear doesnt want o engage. What maybe the problem
March 2nd, 2018, 2:05 PM
#160
Update to my ongoing issues...
Wanted to give an update on my wife's 2012 Captiva. It'sbeen a long and painful journey to get a host of issues fixed. You can search though this thread to see how it has progressed.
After the umpteenth time in the shop here in the past 6 months (my 2ndalternator and 3rd BCM) I finally got off my tail and decided to do something about it. Not to mention that my extended warranty is ending here soon.
I mentioned in an earlier thread that there once was a website called gmproblemsolver.com that explained the how and why theseproblems are occurring... and a proposed solution. So, it took a while but I tracked the owner of this site down. He was a super nice guy who has been in the automotive repair business for years. He explained that he has worked on hundreds of these issues and was able to offer a solution that he has shared with a many automotive repair shops (including dealerships). He eventually had to take the website down because he was inundated with requests for help. It was just too much.
Many issues are related to how the engine and frame are grounded. A bad ground can cause an unnecessary draw on a car's electrical components which will eventually lead to a failure. In my case, random dash lights flashing, radio on/off randomly, radio burning out (yes, this one too), alternator issues, radio going off when turning on the bright lights, cruise control going off when turning on the bright lights, BCM failure. The list goes on andon and on. Don't have time to list them all but almost all of my issues have been discussed in other's thread.
The proposed solution is simple. What is needed: Two 14" long 1" widestandard "Electrical Ground Strap Cables" (Napa part # TWD -VEL058116) and some dielectric grease spray. About $35.00 total. Compress the cables allowing for space to fill the inside with the grease spray. This helps to insure connectivity. Connect one strap to the top of the negative battery terminal and then ground the other end somewhere on the frame. Captiva's have a ground post near the battery but I chose to ground my connection to the shock tower only because the bracket to the ground post looks to be soldered in a few places. The attempt here is to have a secure ground. Then connect the second strap somewhere on the other side of the engine and then again over to the frame somewhere. Be careful to allow for engine movement and not to touch any moving parts. You can purchase a shorter length of ground strap depending on where you want to place your grounds.
What I did...only because I had already purchased parts before I was able to connect with the gentleman above.. About $100.00
My cables were made out of two gauge stranded welding cable with crimped and soldered connectors.
I first ran a secondary ground from the top of the negative battery post over to one of the right side facing upper shock tower mounting screws... being careful to remove enough of the paint underneath the screw to make a good connection. I then ran a second ground from one of the two alternator mounting bracket screws.... up over and away from any pulley/belts...behind the air filter box... and up on to the left side facing shock tower mounting screw. Again making sure I had removed enough paint to make a good connection. Also made sure I had enough hood clearance.
So, it has been approx. one month since I have made this upgrade... and have experienced no new issues.
a few notes here.
- The upgrades I made were in addition to existing negative/ground connections on the vehicle. My efforts here were to reinforce the factory connections. I did not touch any factory wiring harnesses.
Similar upgrades by high end stereo shops can be seen on video by googling" the big three upgrade". So, this isn't something new.
- I originally took my findings to a local dealership in the hopes of sharing what could be a fix to many of the problems listed here. I also gave them the contact # for the gentleman above. They pretty much ignored my input. "We get fixes/stuff from people all of the time" they said. Guess their techs are smarter than you and me? Maybe it's the liability issue? Maybe this post will get deleted by the admins? We'll see....
- This info is offered up for educational and informational purposes only. Use it as you see fit.
Good luck!
After the umpteenth time in the shop here in the past 6 months (my 2ndalternator and 3rd BCM) I finally got off my tail and decided to do something about it. Not to mention that my extended warranty is ending here soon.
I mentioned in an earlier thread that there once was a website called gmproblemsolver.com that explained the how and why theseproblems are occurring... and a proposed solution. So, it took a while but I tracked the owner of this site down. He was a super nice guy who has been in the automotive repair business for years. He explained that he has worked on hundreds of these issues and was able to offer a solution that he has shared with a many automotive repair shops (including dealerships). He eventually had to take the website down because he was inundated with requests for help. It was just too much.
Many issues are related to how the engine and frame are grounded. A bad ground can cause an unnecessary draw on a car's electrical components which will eventually lead to a failure. In my case, random dash lights flashing, radio on/off randomly, radio burning out (yes, this one too), alternator issues, radio going off when turning on the bright lights, cruise control going off when turning on the bright lights, BCM failure. The list goes on andon and on. Don't have time to list them all but almost all of my issues have been discussed in other's thread.
The proposed solution is simple. What is needed: Two 14" long 1" widestandard "Electrical Ground Strap Cables" (Napa part # TWD -VEL058116) and some dielectric grease spray. About $35.00 total. Compress the cables allowing for space to fill the inside with the grease spray. This helps to insure connectivity. Connect one strap to the top of the negative battery terminal and then ground the other end somewhere on the frame. Captiva's have a ground post near the battery but I chose to ground my connection to the shock tower only because the bracket to the ground post looks to be soldered in a few places. The attempt here is to have a secure ground. Then connect the second strap somewhere on the other side of the engine and then again over to the frame somewhere. Be careful to allow for engine movement and not to touch any moving parts. You can purchase a shorter length of ground strap depending on where you want to place your grounds.
What I did...only because I had already purchased parts before I was able to connect with the gentleman above.. About $100.00
My cables were made out of two gauge stranded welding cable with crimped and soldered connectors.
I first ran a secondary ground from the top of the negative battery post over to one of the right side facing upper shock tower mounting screws... being careful to remove enough of the paint underneath the screw to make a good connection. I then ran a second ground from one of the two alternator mounting bracket screws.... up over and away from any pulley/belts...behind the air filter box... and up on to the left side facing shock tower mounting screw. Again making sure I had removed enough paint to make a good connection. Also made sure I had enough hood clearance.
So, it has been approx. one month since I have made this upgrade... and have experienced no new issues.
a few notes here.
- The upgrades I made were in addition to existing negative/ground connections on the vehicle. My efforts here were to reinforce the factory connections. I did not touch any factory wiring harnesses.
Similar upgrades by high end stereo shops can be seen on video by googling" the big three upgrade". So, this isn't something new.
- I originally took my findings to a local dealership in the hopes of sharing what could be a fix to many of the problems listed here. I also gave them the contact # for the gentleman above. They pretty much ignored my input. "We get fixes/stuff from people all of the time" they said. Guess their techs are smarter than you and me? Maybe it's the liability issue? Maybe this post will get deleted by the admins? We'll see....
- This info is offered up for educational and informational purposes only. Use it as you see fit.
Good luck!
Last edited by shuvl; March 2nd, 2018 at 2:13 PM.
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