I do not know if anyone is following along, but I feel that making these posts allows me to create a log of findings, experiments etc... and may be useful for others out there somewhere.

Today driving to work, my car has run amazingly well, however I have to read the misfire counts yet. I did not feel a misfire, not a single one, so that alone is an improvement, whether or not the readings show misfires.
This leads me to believe that at least half of the issue must be caused by poor fuel injection. I am under the impression that the injectors were not working properly, and I assume that at least one, if not two injectors were stuck open, and I would also assume that the stuck open injectors were either 1, 2, or 4, as those cylinders had the most misfires. Just before I took my car into the dealer, cylinders 1 & 4 were acting up the most.

Extra notes on this log:
- The dealers induction cleaning service did not completely clear up the issue, however it helped quite a lot.
- The Captiva is still running on e85, haven't put a single tank of regular gas in it for more than three months. (it doesn't like switching back to E10, and I want to keep everything the same, don't want to change too many factors while diagnosing an issue).
- Battery grounds were checked, found some corrosion on the negative ground right next to the battery. Did not resolve the issue, however dome lights no longer flickered.
- At the same time the corrosion was removed on the grounds, new temporary ground straps were installed for testing purposes, and removed later when it made no difference in misfires.

On Saturday, thinking that the dealer may be onto something, and that they are most likely smarter than me, I followed the same assumption as the GM repair tech, and assumed that the issue may have to do with the fuel injection system. I placed the entire contents of a small bottle of Lucas Safe Guard while having a half tank of gas in the car. I then drove approximately 100 miles over the weekend, and today the car performs as if the issue has been resolved (however, I need to check the misfires with a scan tool).

My next step is to read the codes, if the issue still isn't resolved, I am going to look into an injector seal kit, or new injectors entirely. I can also do a fuel pressure leak-down test to see if there is an injector leaking before replacing parts...

Wish me luck!

 

I have a 2014 Chevy Captiva Sport and mine was doing this also. It ended up being a faulty Camshaft Intake censor. Replaced it and no more stalling out.

 

Looks like the issue might actually be multiple issues. I took my Captiva to a mechanic that I know well, he has a few nuts loose but he is completely passionate about his work, and always does a good job. They placed listening equipment all over the engine and transmission, and drove it around for an hour or two. His best guess was that the throttle body needed some cleaning, and told me to clean it by hand with rubbing alcohol. It turns out, despite having an induction cleaning service just done by the dealer, there was not dirt, but a honey-like sticky film in the throttle body. Upon cleaning the film off, everything was great for about a month, and the idling issues began to appear once again. I once again dug in, and found that the throttle body was this time covered in a dark oily film that was becoming a bit crusty.

I decided to do an experiment, so I ordered a PCV filter. I previously installed a high quality air filter in my Captiva, and it was hardly dirty, and the intake tube leading to the throttle body was clean... until the PCV port. I assumed that possibly if the throttle body is so crazy sensitive to grime, the only possible source for grime right now is the PCV. Upon installing this filter, and re-cleaning the throttle body, I haven't experienced a stall in the last 2 to 3 months.

However, I believe the reason why I may be experiencing multiple issues, is the fact that Torque is still logging misfires, and the idle will occasionally go erratic, however, nothing like it used to.

Thanks for the reply, I am ordering both the intake and exhaust solenoids, and I will try it out!


Here's the install of the filter....

PCV filter installed to keep the throttle body clean. It works!

 

I successfully replaced the intake and exhaust solenoids and simply ran the Captiva for quite a while to see if the issue would clear up. Sadly, no luck. Today I was coming down the hill and the tachometer read 0 RPM for a second, as apparently the engine stalled and restarted. I honestly didn't know that an engine can bump-start it's self down a hill with an automatic! I then had a service stabilitrack message, a traction control light, engine power reduced light & message, and a check engine light. I was able to pull over at an auto parts store and get a code readout. I wasn't given the exact code, however they said it was the Low Pressure Fuel Regulator. Knowing that I have an extended warranty on my Captiva, I declined to purchase the part, and as I was on my way to the dealer... all of the lights turned back off, and everything was running as normal.

I don't get it? How can a car experience such a failure that it stalls going down hill, and simply turns the check engine light back off???!!

Here's the thing, my dealer won't work on my car without a check engine code... I don't feel safe driving this thing anymore, and I am unable to get any solutions.

A few extra notes:

• Throttle body is still clean thanks to the PCV filter.
• No other changes to anything what-so-ever, unless documented above.
• A possible solution:
  You Tube
• I am now documenting the issue with my dash cam. I will not post any video until at least after I have discussed it with a Lemon law attorney...

It is just very very sad, it could be an amazing car, and it is my first time purchasing from a dealer. It was originally an exciting experience. I also cannot afford to keep taking the Captiva to the dealer, they charged me $600 last time. I guess they assume that you cannot claim lemon, if you cannot afford to make the four repair attempts...