1997 Cavalier 2.2 Automatic No start & No dash lights
August 2nd, 2011, 9:48 PM
#21
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Very common problem with side post battery connections remove both cable bolts look for corrosion any signs replace them. It is possible that car has a ground problem and not a power problem
August 2nd, 2011, 10:01 PM
#22
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Thank you for your reply. Searching out the grounds was one of the first things I tried and retried. The battery is good and so are the grounds. No corrosion anywhere...
August 3rd, 2011, 11:29 AM
#23
The PCM has nothing to do with the starter, though. If you have battery voltage supplied to the ignition switch, the switch has to pass it onto the yellow wire with key in start. You can verify this by measuring the resistance across the respective terminals on the ignition switch with key in start.
Provided that the ignition switch is not the culprit, if you see ridiculously low voltage on the yellow wire off the switch, there has to be a load, a short or shunt to ground. I think you need to look at the transaxle range switch sooner or later. But, first measure the voltage on the yellow wire with the purple wire disconnected from the relay, all wiring disconnected from the PCM, and key in start?
Provided that the ignition switch is not the culprit, if you see ridiculously low voltage on the yellow wire off the switch, there has to be a load, a short or shunt to ground. I think you need to look at the transaxle range switch sooner or later. But, first measure the voltage on the yellow wire with the purple wire disconnected from the relay, all wiring disconnected from the PCM, and key in start?
August 3rd, 2011, 12:12 PM
#24
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I will do that when I get off work tonight. I will try the transaxle range switch etc as I go along. I just wanted to add that the starter relay you said was rigged into the starter system is indeed factory. I went by 2 used car lots today and found the exact same relay setup in a 99 cavalier and 97 sunfire. From the relay comes 1 ground wire and two red wires. One of the red wires goes to the hot wire on the starter solenoid and the other goes to the ignition on the starter solenoid. Thank you again and I will report back soon.
August 4th, 2011, 1:24 AM
#25
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I know by now it probably doesn't matter but that starter relay you said was rigged , kinda is. It's actually a recall fix they preformed on the cars from those years. I happened to run across that information in my searches earlier. I tried what you said with the same results as when I tested it before. i then disconnected the pcm and got the same results. I was discussing it with the old guy that owns the local NAPA when I went in for some R-134A today (only $5.99 a can! It's $15 everywhere else lol). He was kind enough to loan me a transaxle range switch. I put it in after removing the original and checking out the connectors and wiring. Still nothing. I can't find any breaks in any wire coming from and leaving the switch.
Last edited by doug2060; August 4th, 2011 at 2:58 AM.
August 4th, 2011, 12:01 PM
#26
By "same results," I assume the low voltage reading on the yellow wire with key in start. Then, the steps I would recommend:
1. Power supply to the ignition switch: you said there's battery voltage on both red wires at the ignition switch.
2. Switching at the ignition switch: the resistance across the switch terminals for red and yellow wires should be infinite and then drop to zero as key is turned to start; confirm? Are there any other terminals connected to the red side with key in start?
3. Short or shunt to ground on the yellow wire: with the yellow wire off the ignition switch and transaxle range switch, the resistance between the yellow wire and ground should be infinite; confirm?
4. Short or shunt to ground on the purple wire: with the purple wire off the transaxle range switch and starter relay, the resistance between the purple wire and ground should be infinite; confirm?
5. Switching at the transaxle range switch: with the transaxle range switch connected (but not the ignition switch or starter relay), the resistance between the ends of the yellow and purple wires should drop to zero with shift lever in Park or Neutral and infinite otherwise; confirm?
6. Short or shunt to the ground at the transaxle range switch: as a variation of the previous step, the resistance between either the yellow or purple wires to ground should be infinite; confirm?
That should about cover it at least to eliminate the components.
1. Power supply to the ignition switch: you said there's battery voltage on both red wires at the ignition switch.
2. Switching at the ignition switch: the resistance across the switch terminals for red and yellow wires should be infinite and then drop to zero as key is turned to start; confirm? Are there any other terminals connected to the red side with key in start?
3. Short or shunt to ground on the yellow wire: with the yellow wire off the ignition switch and transaxle range switch, the resistance between the yellow wire and ground should be infinite; confirm?
4. Short or shunt to ground on the purple wire: with the purple wire off the transaxle range switch and starter relay, the resistance between the purple wire and ground should be infinite; confirm?
5. Switching at the transaxle range switch: with the transaxle range switch connected (but not the ignition switch or starter relay), the resistance between the ends of the yellow and purple wires should drop to zero with shift lever in Park or Neutral and infinite otherwise; confirm?
6. Short or shunt to the ground at the transaxle range switch: as a variation of the previous step, the resistance between either the yellow or purple wires to ground should be infinite; confirm?
That should about cover it at least to eliminate the components.
August 4th, 2011, 6:07 PM
#28
I realize you're certain of that based on your troubleshooting but I don't see how all six steps check out as I've described. Either your meter is flaky or the ground reference(s) you are using are not at the same potential as the battery negative terminal. Well, I gave it my best shot. Good luck and give us a holler when you figure it out.
August 4th, 2011, 10:03 PM
#29
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I appreciate your help. I didn't actually go through and test all those wires. I traced them and simply confirmed no breaks etc. I've pretty much convinced myself the PCM is the problem. I've posted on several forums etc and the help I got was different at each one. It's good to have many opinions and help working through these things. I'm currently waiting on someone to get back to me about programming a computer for me. I'll be sure to post the results.
