Tested fuel pressure and it is ok.

dry compression test- 35, 32, 30, 40 I have read they should be within 15%, I have also seen within 20 psi.

Coil packs are good. Going to take ICM to auto-parts store and have them test.

 

40 PSI is extremely low. Technical Articles at Greg's Engine & Machine
Edit: Back to camshaft timing.

 

I don't think I cranked the engine long enough i did it for 3-5 secs, friend told me to do it for 10 secs. Plus I crank it myself didn't have a helper. Next time I will use a screwdriver to short starter to solenoid so I can watch gauge. Or I was going to rig up a switch since I can't find my old one.

I had the ICM tested and it is bad, so I found a new one on ebay for $50 vs paying $150-$230 at my area auto part stores.

 

you should have more than 40psi on the first hit. remove the front cover and check the timing marks. Your timing chain probably jumped. The noise you heard most likely was loose/broken chain guides

 

I'm going to redo test- I didn't disable fuel pump and ignition, didn't remove all spark plugs, can't warm the engine because of no start, plus I need to let it run through 6 strokes.

 

and keep the throttle wide open when doing compression tests. take note of the compression pressure on the first hit and then final.

 

Got the new ICM from ebay and still no start. So taking the old and new IcM to a couple of different auto parts stores and have them test.

Compression test- Did everything suggested and readings-

20(1st)/40(last) 20/40 20/40 20/50

Why would the compression be that low across the board?- it doesn't burn that much oil at all, as much as can be expected from 211k miles on it

 

this^

 

And look at the bright side, no bent valves.

 

Ok, you right guys, tensioner went bad and its out of time. I have heard that its best to replace the tensioner as well as the timing chain set. Is this a good idea. Now its has 211k mi on the engine, so is it better to just replace the tensioner? No idea if this is the original factory timing chain set or not.