Tooth

A few months ago I had asked about the procedure for changing My 3 speed automatic to a 4 speed automatic, I was informed that I would have to change just about everything under the hood. Well I've been doing just that. I found the exact same year with the same engine (2200) but with the 4 speed automatic transmission. Please keep this in mind that I'm in no hurry to get this up and running, so I've been working on it the last few weekends taking My time. I removed all the wiring harness in the engine compartment. Then I removed all the wiring harness in the dash taking My time as not to damage anything from the donor car everything steering column radio instrument cluster bcm everything. I took My car apart the same way and reinstalled everything that I removed from the donor car the only thing that I didn't change was the headlight wiring harness and the rear wiring harness, I checked everything on them two harnesses and found them to be excactly the same as Mine. I even changed the shifter. While I was changing the steering column I replaced the lock tumbler with the lock mechanism from My old steering column. every thing works but the car won't start it cranks. I changed the lock back to the original set up that came with the column and the bcm from the donor car, still no start, no sound from the fuel pump either. checked fuses and exchanged relays still nothing. Any suggestions would be helpful?

EinST

The PCM and BCM go together. Did you transplant the PCM as well?

Tooth

Yes, I also used the PCM from the donor car,and BCM Thank You, Tooth

EinST

The PCM should energize the fuel pump relay to prime the fuel pressure as soon as the key is turned to ON. The BCM and anti-theft system has nothing to say about that. Do you have power at the 15A F/P-INJ fuse with key on? Also, check fuses labeled with "PCM" (there're more than one) and verify power with key on.

Tooth

I checked all the fuses. I only found 2 marked PCM 1 under the hood, the other was in the fuse box. I had power all the time under the hood and power with the key on in the fuse box. I checked them with a 12v test light by touching each side of the fuse. The 15A F/P-INJ also had power to it on both sides. I even banged on the bottom of the fuel tank in case the fuel pump went bad. I also have another qusetion, On this wiring harness there is a extra relay of sorts mounted on the core support directly above the cooling fan. My old wiring harness did not have this?

EinST

The PCM energizes the fuel pump relay. It should click when you turn the key on.

As for the "extra relay" you found, there was a recall to add a relay to the starter circuit. Do a web search for "Product Safety #04002." Basically too much current was going through the ignition switch to engage the starter solenoid with the key in START.

Tooth

When You say fuel pump relay, You are talking about the one located in the fuse box under the hood? There is no "click" I changed this relay several times with other relays that I had around the shop still no "click" I also only have power in one scocket of this relay location. I really appreciate You taking the time to help Me out on this. Would it be better if I left the battery hooked for a longer period of time? like over night?

EinST

Yes, that's the relay. The socket for relay terminal 87 gets the power from the F/P-INJ fuse. When the relay is energized, the terminal 87 gets connected to terminal 30 which supplies the power to the fuel pump and fuel injectors. On the relay coil side, terminal 85 is the PCM side and terminal 86, ground. The PCM energizes the relay by supplying battery voltage over the DK GRN/WHT wire that goes between the PCM connector C2, terminal 8 and the socket for relay terminal 85.

Tooth

Wow! I think I'll have to go back to school and pay attention this time. But really what if there was something wrong with the PCM how would a person be able to tell? What I mean is If I was to take this to a guy that has done electrical work for Me in the past. and if I told Him all of the things that I've done to this car with the changing of the wiring harnesses, and I really did take My time and made sure that everything matched up correctly. No cutting and splicing done what so ever. I don't think He would even want to take the time to look at it. I know that all the PCMs that I have seen on the few cars that I looked at all the numbers were the same even with a 3 speed auto or a 4 speed auto. If I changed the PCM I would have to get it reprogramed or "Flashed"? Or maybe if I took it to Him and told Him that My old lady lost the keys and I replaced the lock mechanism and it wouldn't start after that. I know that it's not the truth but this guy is really good at electronics in cars, and if I told Him the truth I think he might use it to His advantage ($$) I don't think this is a major problem just finding it is a major problem.

EinST

Oops, I was going to call it a day. When you turn the key on, what do you see in the I/P cluster? Is the MIL lit (which is the first thing the PCM will turn on)? How about hanging a OBD scanner to see if the PCM will respond? Mind, check the CIG fuse that powers the OBD data link port first. Other than that, I'm not sure what to suggest, sight unseen.