MDTAHOE

You need to learn the pass lock sensor to the security system

30 Minute Learn Procedure
TOOLS REQUIRED:
None


Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK).
IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the Passlock (TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.



Start the engine (the vehicle has now learned the Passlock(TM) Sensor Data Code and/or password).
With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed (history DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles).

Tooth

I want to Thank You again for taking time to help Me with this. I'm not trying to insult Your patients, but I/P=insturment panel MIL refers to? Going back to Your previous post using the numbers that You listed are the wire locations on the relay switch and where it goes in the fuse block? The other numbers are where the wires should lead to the wire conection plug located on the PCM? If I locate the correct wires would I check them with a normal 12v tester? or something else? and how long should I get power in these wires? On the past GM cars that I've worked on the fuel pump turns on and then stops, I assume that it builds pressure then when the engine starts it would resume running? Thats why I asked how long should I get power in these wires? You also said that the security system would not cause this problem?

Tooth

Oops, I'm sorry MDTAHOE some how I missed Your post on this subject before I replied to EinST last suggestion on My problem. I'm going to try Your suggestion before I start tracing down wires. In My original post I also changed the steering column but before I installed it I changed the key mechanism and installed My original key, then when the car wouldn't start the first thing I did was change it back to the key mechanism that came with the BCM and the matching PCM. Should I change it back to My key mechanism it also fits the door locks? Will this proccedure learn the Passlock sensor from My key mechanism? I'm assuming thats what the Passlock sensor is? I'm trying to learn all this information. I'm Thanking You both for Your patients with Me.

MDTAHOE

The pass lock sensor is part of the column. It has nothing to do with the lock. If that is what is wrong you should not need to change anything else.

EinST

I'll defer to MDTAHOE on the Passlock system. I am, however,curious on the behavior of your "SECURITY telltale" a.k.a. THEFT SYSTEM indicator in the I/P cluster as you turn the key on, start, and then back to on.

"I/P" is short for Instrument Panel" and "MIL," Malfunction Indicator Lamp a.k.a. Check Engine Light. The relay terminal designations are stamped on the relay itself. Pull it out and then look on the bottom, i.e., the blade side. You probably shouldn't use a test light for anything that's powered by the PCM since the PCM is not designed to supply a lot of current to things like relay control coils. Consider a digital multimeter which is practically dime a dozen nowadays.

As I've stated previously, the fuel pump should prime as soon as the key is turned to ON and thus your experience in that respect is the same as mine. Maybe they did something else with the 2000 Cavalier.

Tooth

I hooked up the battery, then procceded to reset the Passlock system. I did everything as I was told to, followed the instructions to a "T" I'm sorry it didn't work, the car cooperated and did everythat MDTAHOE said that it would. The car didn't start, after that I tried to re-do the reset procedure again I couldn't get the security light in the I/P cluster to come back on after that. I did get the security system to arm with the remote door lock key ring. But that has worked since I tried to start the car Sunday evening. EinST, I looked at My old wiring harness and now I know where to look on the PCM and found the terminal number 8 with the dark green wire with the white stripe that goes to the relay blade terminal number 85. I've never used a multimeter before what would I be looking for? (any voltage out put from the PCM etc.) I did check the relay terminal number 87 for 12v and it had it. I also removed the F/P INJ fuse and it lost power. Please help Me through this proccess.

EinST

Okay, set the multimeter to read resistance (Ω) and then touch the two probes to each other. If you got it set up right, the resistance should read zero. Pull the relay out, touch one probe to the socket for relay terminal 86 (where the relay used to be in) and the other probe to a known good ground (battery negative terminal if you can manage it with a helper). The resistance should read zero.

Next, pull connector C2 from the PCM, touch one probe to socket 8 on the connector (careful not to expand the little socket) and the other probe to the socket for relay terminal 85. The resistance should read zero.

Reseat the connector to the PCM and then set the multimeter to read DC voltage, touch the red probe to the battery positive terminal and the black probe to the battery negative terminal. If you got it set up right, the voltage should read around 12. Touch the red probe to the socket for relay terminal 86 and the other probe to a known good ground (battery negative terminal if you can manage it with a helper) and get the other helper to turn the key to start. I suspect there won't be any voltage. Then, you know the PCM is not energizing the relay for whatever reason.

Now, if you're really brave, you can try a jumper across the sockets for terminals 87 and 30 to supply power to the fuel pump and fuel injectors temporarily. Frankly, I'm not sure what that would accomplish.

Tooth

Thanks EinST, I'll get a multimeter and test them points of interest tomorrow. as for the jumper wire I'll think about that one. I was reading through some older post and came across one that You replied to about a "bad insturment cluster" as the reason His car wouldn't start, could this be My problem? You had asked Me about My MIL light in the cluster, it stays on along with the service engine light. I forgot to add this in My last reply. If that guy's I/P was bad and they replaced (I assume with a used one) wouldn't it have to be from the same year car with the same options to be able to work with the PCM? If My PCM is bad whats the easiest way to go about it? find a used one or try to have Mine reprogramed if thats what they do? or put full coverage on it and push it down a hill! I'm just kidding.

EinST

In those days you're referring to, the anti-theft functionality was integrated into the I/P cluster. The BCM handles that on yours. It'd be so much easier with a scan tool that can read PCM and BCM. The PCM may be defective or there may be a communication or security problem between the PCM and BCM. The PCM can be reprogrammed, if that's what it needs, or new one put in and reprogrammed. The BCM is a little tricky since I think it can be programmed only once in its life and thus it has to match the vehicle and optional equipment. This is looking more and more like you need to get it to a shop.

Tooth

I'll let You know how it turns out. Thanks again