Go Back  Chevrolet Forum - Chevy Enthusiasts Forums > Past Chevrolet Cars > Cavalier
Reload this Page >

2002 still getting hot after changing everything

Notices
Cavalier Starting in the 1980s. the Cavalier made a name for itself by offering an affordable 2 and 4 door compact.
Platform: J-body

2002 still getting hot after changing everything

Old October 6th, 2011, 4:40 PM
  #11  
CF Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,709
Default

I don't know but I've a feeling that the thermostat may be installed backwards (been there, done that). The side with the spring around the cylinder should be immersed in the hot coolant, i.e., toward the engine and not the thermostat housing.
EinST is offline  
Old October 7th, 2011, 12:12 PM
  #12  
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 159
Default

Chevrolet has made the t stat housing idiot proof. T stat only fits one way and in one orientation, 12 oclock/ 6 oclock, guts in the hot water flow. The above mentioned tests prove the system IS capable of cooling the car. Flow was thought of with the 3,200 rpm results. Gutting the t stat showed two things, where the problem is and the rest of the system still worked. If the gutted t stat doesn't restrict enough to get to operating temp then the t stats 1-3 restricted to much causing the over heating? Went to chevrolet and bought t stat #4 last evening. Going now to install it and give it a trial run. I'm getting way to good at this. Still working on my connections to get a full scan on it also.
BW56 is offline  
Old October 7th, 2011, 12:37 PM
  #13  
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 159
Default

Yep getting better at it. Filling it with coolant as i type.
BW56 is offline  
Old October 7th, 2011, 2:03 PM
  #14  
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 159
Default

Test and retest. FAIL. Jumped to 205*, auto fan can on, drove 2 blocks and got to 235*. turn around came home and opened the radiator drain. Thought that was not much so refilled and did a retest after doing everything to get it full, ran at 205* auto fan running, crept up to 210*, drove 7 blocks and was at 235* and climbing. returning home i tried 3,200 rpm in nutral on the way, was 205* by the time i got home. Im putting the gutted t stat back in after its cooled off. At least i can get farther than a half mile from home that way. Also did a little hammering on the gutted t stat to make the hole slightly smaller.
BW56 is offline  
Old October 7th, 2011, 2:24 PM
  #15  
CF Monarch
 
kevinkpk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,516
Default

Does the radiator have a fan shroud?
kevinkpk is offline  
Old October 7th, 2011, 2:31 PM
  #16  
CF Monarch
 
kevinkpk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,516
Default

Going back through the posts. Appears the stat is working since you feel water through the top hose. I'd suggest maybe a 180 or so Tstat. You may not have a shroud on the radiator as the blade may already be shrouded (they are on my lumina). Ok, rehash, when did this start, and what circumstances where they? The fan is comming on? I am not sure what speed those are supposed to turn. When you replaced the radiator was a direct replacement? That small of an engine I'd not think it would need more than a two row core.

Last edited by kevinkpk; October 7th, 2011 at 2:37 PM.
kevinkpk is offline  
Old October 7th, 2011, 6:20 PM
  #17  
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 159
Default

Electric fan is kind of shrouded, stock. New radiator was a direct replacement, two row direct bolt up. Even chevy's t stat was a 180*. Started last fall on the road between pason and phoenix doing 70 ish down the hill. Nursed it home in short hops in what became a very long trip. This car always ran 195* up hill, down hill, rain or shine, desert or snow. Replaced the 1st t stat and got along for almost a year (no trust or trips), since then nothing has worked to fix the overheating. The fan now comes on about 205*. When it over heated it was not working unless the ac was on, (it was) which was 95% of the time anyway. Radiator fan works now with all the fluid i have been running through it. I still have the manual override i can plug into the electric fan. Its not needed but was nice to use in the tests. When i did the head job the head gasket was just about plugged solid. every 5/16 hole was a pin hole at best. Cleaned up nicely. I was told the coolant had been mixed with a different brand/type. I'm chevy to the core (except for the token ford and dodge in my youth) so it didn't come from my personal supply. I'm done working on this thing unless some ones got a sure fire fix to try. Wife wants to rent the car shes got her eye on for a weekend of testing from some agency. Think i'll say yes............
BW56 is offline  
Old October 11th, 2011, 9:49 PM
  #18  
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 159
Default

I had a chance to drive down town today, 17 miles one way. Most on the freeway. Temp ran about 170* on city streets without the fan running in 4:30 heavy traffic. On the freeway the temp came down to 145* without the fan running in 5:30 heavy slow and go traffic. This thing is sucking gas like my suburban. Filled it Saturday night, 70 miles later its down more than an 1/8 of a tank of gas. Wife says she usually goes almost 100 miles before it comes off the full peg. No leaks and no gas smell. the wife's idea is sounding better all the time.
BW56 is offline  
Old October 12th, 2011, 12:00 AM
  #19  
CF Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,709
Default

The poor gas mileage is a direct result of the under temperature condition. The PCM probably isn't even getting into the closed loop operation. You said "the head gasket was just about plugged solid." DEX-COOL mixing with regular antifreeze can create nasty gunk that'll plug up everything. How did you clean it out (I've heard Cascade works good)? Also, silicates in the regular antifreeze will coat everything and thus it's best not to go back to DEX-COOL.
EinST is offline  
Old October 18th, 2011, 10:34 AM
  #20  
CF Active Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 159
Default

I cant stop thinking about this. Is it possible LOW flow through the bypass to the back of the t stat could be letting the t stat only open part way? I need more flow threw the t stat to stay cool. Checked the gas mileage at 23 city. None of my connections have gotten back to me yet. All blockages were at the gasket, 3/32 of an inch into the head and block, block cleaned up nicely with a shop vac and screw driver, and used a rebuilt head. Dont have any idea how many times or how long i flushed it hot and cold. Wife just checked on being "Pre-approved".......
BW56 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 2002 still getting hot after changing everything


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: