kevinkpk

The one thing you want to do is make sure the cascade ect. is out as I don't know how it would react to anti freeze. Glad you got it figured out. Alot of that crud in your radiator as you described is probably from hard water getting hot (anti freeze mix). Now when you go to refill it, I'd suggest you use premix anti freeze.

EinST

Congrats, Bob. And, thanks for documenting the relevant details in such a thorough manner. I'm positive your experience will help others who find their way to this forum with the same root cause.

BW56

I'll have two or more days running with straight water before i before i plan to drain and fill with 50/50 mix. Arizona has VERY hard water. I have been using Reverse Osmosis water in batteries and radiators for a while now. My local contacts were puzzled so i typed in key words on the internet. I found this site and you helped me succeed.

One quick follow up on the tests 24 hours later, cascade/lemishine- still see no difference, crud is the same size and hardness (still a lot of powder not dissolved, maybe real hot water would help that). CLR- softened the crud to a 25% size reduction, the core of the crud is still hard. Vinegar- still see no difference, crud is the same size and hardness. CLR might soften any crud stuck in the system enough to be back flushed out, just dont know what prolonged contact could do in the system.

Again thank you. Bob

BW56

10/30/2013 and still running strong

1953drtelco

Great thread with a lot of good information.

BW56

Bad update, 7/18/14, Got hot today. Came home keeping an eye on the temp gauge and rpm's over 2,000. I'll check things out this weekend and report back.

BW56

The engine got hot and was surging at idle, and the ac didn't work at idle. First thing i did was bypass the heater core in Az in July, to eliminate that possibility in the over heating problem. After a low speed test run temp wanted to climb above normal. It looks like my radiator fan is not running. Even when the ac is on, no fan. The ac is also causing the engine to surge very bad when stopped (+1000 to 1500 rpm). The ac sounds thumpy from the high head pressure from the front coils not being cooled. It pegged my cheapy Auto Zone ac gauge. The next step is to check the fan with 12 volts and hook the heater core back up, when it cools enough to touch.

BW56

Burnt my hands and arms a little but, I was going to use the jumper switch I still had under the dash to test the fan. Pulled the switch out from under the dash an plugged it into the lighter socket. When swapping fan wire plugs, mine for theirs, Theirs was burnt on one leg. Just for giggles plugged mine in any way. The fan didn't turn on. Sounds like i need a fan and new plug.

BW56

Checked the old fan motor with an ohm meter and it showed to be an open circuit. So around $25 for a new radiator fan motor. Replaced the connector with my salvaged one. Hooked the heater core back into the system. Installed fan, coolant. Run test, around 195* fan came on holding temp. Ac turns fan on and is cold at idle and not sounding thumpy. Idle is not surging. So we are good to go.

Vincent Michael Baldwin

I know its been sometime since this thread was in the making but just wanted to say thanks to you BW for following through to the end and coming back to update! I am also glad you didn't give in to the new car for your wife idea and abandon the project and many people like me that would read this through to the Heater core flush answer! I hope all is well with you folks and Thanks again! Now let her get that car she's wanted if you haven't already

Chevy Cavalier overheating problem: Answered!