Any suggestions or things to be aware of. I did a search but nothing came up. Car has 91,000 and gears are worn/noisey and trans needs to be rebuilt.

Thanks

 

Well I started and I realize you need to remove the cradle to get trans out.

Can't get transmission separated from engine, still working on that.


Not to much action at this site

 

I would've thought you had some sort of a reference or repair manual to go by.

To Remove:

1. Disconnect the negative and positive battery cables.
2. Remove the retaining bolt and the battery.
3. Remove the washer solvent bottle.
4. Install the engine support fixture.
5. Lift the engine enough to take weight off of the transaxle mounts.
6. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly from the throttle body.
7. Drain the coolant.
8. Remove the upper radiator hose.
9. Remove the wire harness from the transaxle bracket.
10. Remove the upper transaxle mount bolts.
11. Remove the negative battery cable from the transaxle.
12. Remove the starter.
13. Disconnect the pressure line from the clutch slave cylinder.
14. Disconnect the backup light switch electrical connector.
15. Remove the rear transaxle mount bolts.
16. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS).
17. Remove the upper transaxle mounting bolts.
18. Disconnect the shift cables at the transmission.
19. Remove the cable bracket bolt and the bracket.
20. Remove the rack and pinion mounting bolts.
21. Lift the vehicle.
22. Remove the wheel assemblies.
23. Remove the front fender liners.
24. Remove the front suspension crossmember.
25. Leave the steering rack in the vehicle.
26. Remove the flywheel support arm bracket from the flywheel cover to engine lower mount.
27. Remove the flywheel housing cover bolts.
28. Remove the flywheel housing cover.
29. Remove the drive axles from the transmission.
30. Remove the engine strut from the bracket.
31. Remove the front lower transaxle mount through-bolt.
32. Attach the transaxle case to a suitable jack.
33. Support the engine with a suitable support stand.
34. Remove the transaxle-to-engine mount bolts.
35. Slide the transaxle away from the engine.
36. Carefully lower the jack.
37. Remove the transaxle.

To Install:

1. Install the transaxle and lower mounting bolts. Tighten to 75 N·m (55 lb-ft).
2. Remove the transaxle jack.
3. Install the front transaxle mount-through bolt. Tighten to 60 N·m (44 lb-ft).
4. Install the flywheel cover.
5. Install the washer solvent container.
6. Remove the jackstand supporting the engine.
7. Install the front fender liners.
8. Install the drive axles.
9. Install the front suspension crossmember.
10. Install the engine strut-to-strut bracket.
11. Install the rack and pinion mounting bolts. Tighten to 120 N·m (89 lb-ft).
12. Install the wheel assemblies.
13. Install the starter.
14. Lower the vehicle.
15. Install the upper transaxle mounting bolts. Tighten to 96 N·m (71 lb-ft).
16. Connect the clutch pressure line.
17. Connect the vehicle speed sensor.
18. Connect the backup light switch.
19. Remove the engine support fixture.
20. Install the negative battery cable to the engine block.
21. Install the upper radiator hose.
22. Install the air cleaner assembly.
23. Fill with coolant.
24. Fill the transaxle with Dexron III Transaxle Fluid.
25. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.
26. Install the battery.

 

EinST,

Thanks for the info and torque specs. I got the trans out. One bolt on inside of motor was hanging me up. Could only see through passengers side wheel well. I did not have to drain coolant. May also change rack since car has 91,000, it shouldn't last to much longer and don't want to do this a second time.

 

You're quite welcome. That's my favorite motor you got there. Change the oil regularly and the L61 Ecotec will last forever. Hope you have fun with your project.

 

Bought the car with 2000 miles and my son changes the oil every 5,000 with Mobile 1 synthetic

 

Update

Got the flywheel cut and installed new clutch, waiting to get transmission back. Torque flywheel to 65 ft lbs and clutch to 18 ft lbs

 

While waiting for trans to be repaired. Mounted Amps to side panel, amp were mounted to floor, better trunk space. Mounted Sub to back seat, if you get a flat hit seat release and sub moves forward with seat to get to spare.

 

Needed to replace some bearing and syncro's. Still waiting for bearings from GM. Replaced Rack & Pinion and ball joints. Replaced front & rear struts.

 

Was bored today so I reinstalled alarm system and door lock module from under the dash to under drivers seat. I get the trans back on Monday

Before


After